another set of questions - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Question another set of questions

I apologize in advance for maybe rethreading some of these questions. I cannot search at work because the "make sure you're human" images don't appear.

Only on cold mornings, 40 and below, there is white smoke on startup. It appears white, not white/blue, at least as far as I can tell. Once warm it is gone. The startup is a little elongated warm or cold.

My steering and brake booster? seem to be 'connected' in that they are making a lot of noise. When I am turning and hitting the brakes especially, there is a loud whirring sound. My brakes seem to not be as good as they were 6 months ago either. Full pads and new rotors.

I was also wondering if anyone knew about good diesel shops in Mobile, AL.

Thank you gentlemen.

'02 F250 with the legendary 7.3L. DP tuner, DIY dual Spectre Diesel Cone air intake, 6" lift with front level, RedHead steering gear, 37x13.5r20 Toyo Open Country MTs, Fuel Hostage rims, straight stock exhaust, custom built rear bumper.

Future mods: rear locker, 4.30s or possibly 4.56s, iron bull front bumper, injectors, ccv mod, turbo rebuild from turboworx, onboard compressor.....

Looking for more mods and upgrades. Feel free to suggest improvements
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 02:13 PM
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On the noisy booster, check your power steering reservoir and make sure it is full. The power steering runs both the brakes and the steering.

Dave

2004 Ford F-350 Regular cab with 6.0.
Completely Stock.

KK6TNI - HAM Radio

http://bennettlaneshopping.com/ - Our Outdoor/Garden and Kitchen Ware store
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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could it be that the fluid is dirty? I don't know much about power steering and brake boosters. I also noticed some ps fluid outside the cap, is it time for a new reservoir, pump, or both?

'02 F250 with the legendary 7.3L. DP tuner, DIY dual Spectre Diesel Cone air intake, 6" lift with front level, RedHead steering gear, 37x13.5r20 Toyo Open Country MTs, Fuel Hostage rims, straight stock exhaust, custom built rear bumper.

Future mods: rear locker, 4.30s or possibly 4.56s, iron bull front bumper, injectors, ccv mod, turbo rebuild from turboworx, onboard compressor.....

Looking for more mods and upgrades. Feel free to suggest improvements
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 03:37 PM
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Those "hydroboost" systems run hot and deteriorate the fluid. I'd change the fluid and check the pressure output of the pump.

The question I seek an answer for is simply; why, or why not?
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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is there a mod for that or just simply a regulatory fluid change?

'02 F250 with the legendary 7.3L. DP tuner, DIY dual Spectre Diesel Cone air intake, 6" lift with front level, RedHead steering gear, 37x13.5r20 Toyo Open Country MTs, Fuel Hostage rims, straight stock exhaust, custom built rear bumper.

Future mods: rear locker, 4.30s or possibly 4.56s, iron bull front bumper, injectors, ccv mod, turbo rebuild from turboworx, onboard compressor.....

Looking for more mods and upgrades. Feel free to suggest improvements
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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also my trans temp gauge nevwer moves. When I turn the key to on, it goes about half way, and after driving 20 min or 6 hours without shutting off, it doesn't change. How do I fix this?

'02 F250 with the legendary 7.3L. DP tuner, DIY dual Spectre Diesel Cone air intake, 6" lift with front level, RedHead steering gear, 37x13.5r20 Toyo Open Country MTs, Fuel Hostage rims, straight stock exhaust, custom built rear bumper.

Future mods: rear locker, 4.30s or possibly 4.56s, iron bull front bumper, injectors, ccv mod, turbo rebuild from turboworx, onboard compressor.....

Looking for more mods and upgrades. Feel free to suggest improvements
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
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is there a mod for that or just simply a regulatory fluid change?
I change both power steering, and transmission fluids ever two years no matter the mileage as habit. If your fluid smells burnt, or is very dark, (no matter the medium) it would be best to change.

The question I seek an answer for is simply; why, or why not?
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 04:15 PM
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also my trans temp gauge nevwer moves. When I turn the key to on, it goes about half way, and after driving 20 min or 6 hours without shutting off, it doesn't change. How do I fix this?
I don't know about your truck but most transmissions which have a temperature monitor have a temp sensor incorporated in the case. This, the gauge, or the interconnection wiring could be a fault. If the gauge is moving when the keyswitch is moved to the "on" position, the system is seeing voltage, but they usually cycle full sweep before settling down to represent the temperature reading.

The question I seek an answer for is simply; why, or why not?
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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It's about 2 quarts right? and what's the best way to drain/refill?

'02 F250 with the legendary 7.3L. DP tuner, DIY dual Spectre Diesel Cone air intake, 6" lift with front level, RedHead steering gear, 37x13.5r20 Toyo Open Country MTs, Fuel Hostage rims, straight stock exhaust, custom built rear bumper.

Future mods: rear locker, 4.30s or possibly 4.56s, iron bull front bumper, injectors, ccv mod, turbo rebuild from turboworx, onboard compressor.....

Looking for more mods and upgrades. Feel free to suggest improvements
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2014, 04:26 PM
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It's about 2 quarts right? and what's the best way to drain/refill?
I like to take the return line loose from either the steering gear, or the pump unit itself and hang it down to a low point into a drain pan after elevating the front tires clear of the floor and placing the truck on jack stands. Then remove the fill cap of the reservoir, and slowly cycle the steering gear from full left to right, (engine off) to purge the fluid. Some hydroboost systems have a filter in the reservoir but I don't think yours does and this should be changed if present. After drained, replace hose, and fill with the correct fluid. Start the engine and complete the fill after cycling the steering gear full left and right a few times to purge air in the system. Check and top off the fluid level after about 1/2 hour of run time to ensure it's full.

The question I seek an answer for is simply; why, or why not?
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