Put old starter back on. Does the same as the China crap. But, old starter is made in Japan. No difference in the way either starter tries to turn the motor. The motor just seems to not want to turn. Attempts to turn about 1/4 inch when engaging the starter.
What else? Motor turns with pull handle. Both batteries are 13.2 volts, no junk in oil, or coolant. Motor just will not turn over with starter, but will with pull handle, with not much effort. Starter relay bad?
I just don't know that much about diesels, this is my first one.
Ok, if the effort by hand is not any higher than you would expect from past engine turning experience, and you can rotate the engine a full revolution, then a known good starter should turn it over. That being said, based on your description of the events leading to this issue, I'm going to suggest you go back to basics.
What is the condition of the battery terminals and cables? Any current or past corrosion issues? If yes, you may need to replace the cables. Follow the cables to their respective connections. Ensure that all connections are clean and tight. This also includes locating chassis grounds from the engine to the frame and from the body to the frame.
Check for damage to the wiring harnesses. Chaffing or animal damage are possibilities, rabbits, rodents, even birds can get places you wouldn't expect, and they can damage the electrical system. Inspect everything you can visually, use a mirror and a light to see into hard to view areas.
Once you've eliminated the main cables and wiring harness as possible causes, and knowing the engine rotates a full revolution or more manually, you'll want to make a jumper wire for the starter solenoid, I recommend using a switch and fuse, attach the wire to the starter solenoid start post, usually identified with an S and usually a small post the size of a #8/#10 machine screw. Attach the other end of the jumper circuit to the positive side of the battery. I like to use alligator clips or strip back the wire enough to make a good connection with the clamp from the battery charger so that in case the switch fails, I can pull the wire free of the positive terminal easily. Simple circuit path follows:
If the engine cranks with the jumper, put the key in and turn it to the run position and see if it can be started with the jumper. If it starts, you may need to repair the ignition switch or the circuit to the starter solenoid. If the engine still doesn't crank, after verifying all power and ground connections, and verifying it turns a complete revolution manually, I would try a different (new) starter.
The Current Truck (Oct-2013 to Present):
1999 (Early) F-350 Lariat, CCLB, SRW, Black/Tan
7.3L Powerstroke, 4R100, 4x4, 3.73, 37x13.50-18s, '05 Axle Swap, 6" Fabtech lift, GTP38 "D66" turbo upgrade, SCT 4-position chip with custom tuning by me, Straight Piped 4" down pipe through 5" dual stacks, N-Fab full length triple steps, Pro-Tech cab guard and tool box, louvered 5th wheel gate, Hella 500 Fog and Driving lamps, much more to come...
The one I'll miss, (Mar-2009 to Jan-2014):
2000 Excursion XLT 4x4
6.8L V-10, 4R100, 4.30, 285/75-18, 271whp / 388wtq
The one I won't, (Jul-2005 to Sep-2012):
2005 F-350 XLT, CCLB, SRW, 4x4 FX4
6.0L PSD, ZF-6S650, 3.73, 35x12.5-18, 4.5" Lift
Last edited by IdahoF350; 07-17-2014 at 10:37 PM.