EBPV Sensor & Tube - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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EBPV Sensor & Tube

Hi Folks - I just want to say how much I appreciate all the help I got here back in May/ June in regards to my alternator. Turned out to be an easy install. Y'all were great in helping me diagnose & pinpoint the problem.

My latest project is to replace the EBPV exhaust backpressure valve sensor and tube. I used to get 19-20 mpg at 70 mph but now over the last year it's decreased to only 10mpg. I've been told that an EBPV repair is a quick & easy fix for this. I bought the parts at Advance Auto for less than $100.

From a YouTube video and Guzzle's PDF instructions, the job is basically
*remove the shroud
*removing the wiring
*remove the sensor with a 1" deep socket
*loosen the 5/8" nut beneath the sensor bracket with a 9/16" wrench and a 5/8" wrench or crows-foot
*loosen the 5/8" nut underneath at the manifold with a 9/16" and 5/8" wrench
*Then either clean or replace the sensor & tube.

I elected to replace. Maybe I'll clean out the old tube and keep it as a spare.

Here's the bottleneck I ran into yesterday. I got the shroud off (sheared both bolts - old & rusty). I got the wiring clip off. I got the sensor off.....but then I tried and tried loosening the 5/8" nut underneath the sensor bracket. Crows foot didnt work, regular shorty 5/8" wrench didnt work. Tried penetrant but no joy. No amount of Miller High Life was going to help this situation.

By the way, both the tube and the sensor PACKED with soot. And I don't Roll Coal

Anyway, how the heck do I get that dang 5/8" bracket nut off without bustin' the bracket? Would y'all suggest I remove the serp belt to get better access at it?

"Help me Obi-Wan Kenobi, you're my only hope"

Catch
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-24-2014, 04:30 AM
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Use more/better penetrating lube - SOAK IT! Both ends. Let it sit and work overnight/all day. If you can get a drift to the nut on the manifold, you can tap it gently/moderately to help the penetrating oil work it's way in and break any unwanted corrosion bonding the nut to the fitting loose. The final thing it tricky, but if all else fails, you can try heating just the nut with a torch, it will expand the nut makig it I easier to break it loose, just don't melt anything you don't want melted with that flame.

The Current Truck (Oct-2013 to Present):
1999 (Early) F-350 Lariat, CCLB, SRW, Black/Tan

7.3L Powerstroke, 4R100, 4x4, 3.73, 37x13.50-18s, '05 Axle Swap, 6" Fabtech lift, GTP38 "D66" turbo upgrade, SCT 4-position chip with custom tuning by me, Straight Piped 4" down pipe through 5" dual stacks, N-Fab full length triple steps, Pro-Tech cab guard and tool box, louvered 5th wheel gate, Hella 500 Fog and Driving lamps, much more to come...
The one I'll miss, (Mar-2009 to Jan-2014):
2000 Excursion XLT 4x4

6.8L V-10, 4R100, 4.30, 285/75-18, 271whp / 388wtq
The one I won't, (Jul-2005 to Sep-2012):
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6.0L PSD, ZF-6S650, 3.73, 35x12.5-18, 4.5" Lift
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-24-2014, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Idaho - yep, JB penetrant did the trick! That, plus a neighbor to help me put extra pressure on the 5/8" wrench.

The next bottleneck was installing the new tube. It would not fit. Do not buy anything from "Dorner" - I finally used 2.4mm weedwacker string in my drill and a whole can of brake cleaner to ream out the soot-packed old tube till it was clean as a whistle.

Also, the directions that Guzzle has posted on his website are *****-backwards.
When re-installing the tube, it's best to attach the tube at the top where the sensor is, first. Get it hand tight and then go underneath and install the tube at the manifold end next. There's a lot more room to work with it and swing a wrench down there.

Also, Guzzle didnt mention it but its a lot easier to work on the top end if you use a breaker bar to loosen the serpentine belt to partially get it out of the way.

Everythings good now and I'll report back on my fuel economy after a trip this weekend!

Catch
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-24-2014, 09:28 PM
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Good work.

If the manufacturer of the tube is Dorman, take the time to note why the part didn't fit and tell them. Dorman has been around a very long time and they've taken a good interest in developing useful diesel products like bellowed up pipe kits for 7.3s and EGR coolers for 6.0s. If they get feedback from us, good or bad it 1.) shows interest in product, 2.) it fixes current figment issues, and 3.) encourages better development work and stronger quality control.

I just did a 248 mile trip yesterday on 12.25 gallons. Proper running truck and driving style make a huge difference.

The Current Truck (Oct-2013 to Present):
1999 (Early) F-350 Lariat, CCLB, SRW, Black/Tan

7.3L Powerstroke, 4R100, 4x4, 3.73, 37x13.50-18s, '05 Axle Swap, 6" Fabtech lift, GTP38 "D66" turbo upgrade, SCT 4-position chip with custom tuning by me, Straight Piped 4" down pipe through 5" dual stacks, N-Fab full length triple steps, Pro-Tech cab guard and tool box, louvered 5th wheel gate, Hella 500 Fog and Driving lamps, much more to come...
The one I'll miss, (Mar-2009 to Jan-2014):
2000 Excursion XLT 4x4

6.8L V-10, 4R100, 4.30, 285/75-18, 271whp / 388wtq
The one I won't, (Jul-2005 to Sep-2012):
2005 F-350 XLT, CCLB, SRW, 4x4 FX4

6.0L PSD, ZF-6S650, 3.73, 35x12.5-18, 4.5" Lift
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 07-28-2014, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Idaho - yep, It's Dorman. I'll contact them and send pics too. Thanks for the help!

I drove 180 miles on Thursday evening non-stop, using only 7.0 gallons, including a 30 minute holdup at the Mobile Tunnel during rush hour. That's 25.7mpg at mostly 70mph/ 2050rpm. The truck had about 500 lbs of offshore fishing tackle jammed in the bed too.

The weekend total was 410 miles including 40 miles stop n go city driving and a ONE HOUR holdup at the Mobile Tunnel mid-day on Saturday, for a total mpg of 19.5mpg. I'd say I've licked my fuel-economy problems.

I'll have to find out what the recommended service intervals are for the EBPV sensor & tube. In future, I'll just change out the sensor for $55 and clean out the tube and re-use it. Now that I know the process, it should be a simple 30 min job at max.
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