2001 4rR00 OD bkinking od out no problem with1st thur 3rd - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-01-2015, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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2001 4rR00 OD bkinking od out no problem with1st thur 3rd

Ok guys a long post. 2001 Ford F350 Super Crew 7.3l 4x4 long bed. 4R100 transmission date code May 2001. Not in the diode recall. In summer of 2008 driving down the interstate at 80mph with no load. My 7.3l revs past 3k. It feels like the trany slipped into neutral. The od light starts blinking. It wont shut off. Tried to turn off od. Had to shut motor off then turn it back on. Pressed od to tow mode. Od off. Now 1st thru 3rd work fine. NO issues. Been driving it this was since 08. I tow a 31' 5th wheel 650 miles one way. I have acomplished this many times since with no issues. w 1st, 2nd or 3rd no problem. No service engine light. The blinking od condition clears every time I shut it off and restart it. ATF levels are fine. Not burnt. It is dark red not brown.
Tried to retrieve codes several times. It don't hold em. Once i pulled a code it refered to the touque converter pressure. If it were the tc then why dose it operate fine 1st thru 3rd. Dont figure.
It just feels like somthing electrical has given up. Thats my 20 years as an industrial machinery mechanic talking. If i knew i wouldent be posting here.
When cold i can shift into D and go. OD works for a min or two. The just fades away when as the trany fluid heats up.
Heat causes resistance, than od light blinks and it feels like im in neutral. So could it be a bad solenoid pack? Could it be my coast diode? If it were the coast diode then why dose 1st thru 3rd work with out issues. Bought a reman solenoid block. Not sure there is not somthing else causing the issue. IE TC. In Abq nm still scratching my head.



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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-08-2015, 10:57 PM
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So you've been driving it like this for 7 years?


Sent by my right thumb!

The Current Truck (Oct-2013 to Present):
1999 (Early) F-350 Lariat, CCLB, SRW, Black/Tan

7.3L Powerstroke, 4R100, 4x4, 3.73, 37x13.50-18s, '05 Axle Swap, 6" Fabtech lift, GTP38 "D66" turbo upgrade, SCT 4-position chip with custom tuning by me, Straight Piped 4" down pipe through 5" dual stacks, N-Fab full length triple steps, Pro-Tech cab guard and tool box, louvered 5th wheel gate, Hella 500 Fog and Driving lamps, much more to come...
The one I'll miss, (Mar-2009 to Jan-2014):
2000 Excursion XLT 4x4

6.8L V-10, 4R100, 4.30, 285/75-18, 271whp / 388wtq
The one I won't, (Jul-2005 to Sep-2012):
2005 F-350 XLT, CCLB, SRW, 4x4 FX4

6.0L PSD, ZF-6S650, 3.73, 35x12.5-18, 4.5" Lift
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-09-2015, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by IdahoF350 View Post
So you've been driving it like this for 7 years?


Sent by my right thumb!
Yes. Currenty im in Phoenix. Pulled the 5th wheel there yesterday. Current milage 133k still going.

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2001 Ford F 350 7.3l Turbo Diesel Lariat Super Crew 4x4 Long Bed. Now, complete with a functional rear sliding window locking latch!
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-09-2015, 09:45 PM
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So, take it to a transmission shop. Have it professionally diagnosed. It could be a pressure issue at lockup. It could be a bad converter (lockup clutch). It could be a number of things, but someone who does these regularly will be able to diagnose it properly and address your issue directly without being sent on a wild goose chase of crazy internet assumptions and unnecessary expenses.

You're here for advice. I've been in the aftermarket performance industry for over 25 years now. My advice is you should have had someone look at it 7 years ago, but even now that advice remains. My areas of expertise are engine performance and road racing. I have written many automatic transmission calibrations for street performance, towing and drag racing customers as a tuner, but I avoid getting into the internals of automatic transmissions, not that I am incapable, but because I defer to the expertise of individuals who choose to specialize in them. Much the same, a good automatic transmission builder will be the one who defers to other specialists for their respective skills and doesn't try and do everything himself, because he will be good and one or several things but not all things and only a true professional is going to admit that.


Sent by my right thumb!

The Current Truck (Oct-2013 to Present):
1999 (Early) F-350 Lariat, CCLB, SRW, Black/Tan

7.3L Powerstroke, 4R100, 4x4, 3.73, 37x13.50-18s, '05 Axle Swap, 6" Fabtech lift, GTP38 "D66" turbo upgrade, SCT 4-position chip with custom tuning by me, Straight Piped 4" down pipe through 5" dual stacks, N-Fab full length triple steps, Pro-Tech cab guard and tool box, louvered 5th wheel gate, Hella 500 Fog and Driving lamps, much more to come...
The one I'll miss, (Mar-2009 to Jan-2014):
2000 Excursion XLT 4x4

6.8L V-10, 4R100, 4.30, 285/75-18, 271whp / 388wtq
The one I won't, (Jul-2005 to Sep-2012):
2005 F-350 XLT, CCLB, SRW, 4x4 FX4

6.0L PSD, ZF-6S650, 3.73, 35x12.5-18, 4.5" Lift
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2015, 04:25 AM Thread Starter
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*Im sorry If you have choose to confine you tallent to one area. My vocation is HVAC / mechanical repair. I choose to fix stuff DYI. The forum is intended to assist others. I believe this is a help site.

*******After taking it to two seperate shops in my area. I was told sight un seen 3k+. Sorry I've been repairing things for over 30 years. When you blirt out 3+k to me I run away fast. Without inspection tells me you have allready set you sight on the easy way out. Just rebuild it. If it were a matter of letting someone else fix it I would have done that 7 years ago. I have, in the past fixed other issues my self. And will continue to fix all other issues diy. Thats why I posted here. If you havent figured it out by now im not in a rush.
*******Im just fishing for causes that would lead me to a fix.

The more I learn, the quicker I can get the problem pinpointed and cured.

*******Thaking it to a shop has not helped, thus far. Gee and I might eventually learn a bit more about this tranny aftre all.

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ABQ Hatrick. .
2001 Ford F 350 7.3l Turbo Diesel Lariat Super Crew 4x4 Long Bed. Now, complete with a functional rear sliding window locking latch!
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-16-2015, 09:22 PM
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Your ignorance must be bliss. Automatic transmissions are vastly more complicated these days than the most convoluted HVAC system your ever had your hands in. You either completely missed the part where I said I choose to let automatic transmissions be someone else's area of expertise so that I can focus on other areas I'm vastly more experienced in, and quite frankly that I prefer. I can build an automatic just as well as 90% of the transmission shops in this country, most certainly a stock or moderately upgraded unit with more than an adequate knowledge of them to have long term success from the build, I choose not to because my time is worth too much to discount it enough to be competitive to even the 91st through the 100th percentile of transmission builders. If you'd like a manual transmission done, converted to racing gear and synchro sets, built to some other specification than stock, I've done a couple hundred of them in the past 25+ years I've been doing this.

When you're finally stranded on the road with your 5th wheel in tow and your transmission tells you you've ignored it a couple feet too far, when you have to make the call for the tow that's going to cost you hundreds of dollars, to a shop that's going to see dollar signs in their eyes and won't care one bit about your problems in that moment or after they have bent you over and had their way with you and your wallet, then you'll realize that rather than being an arrogant *** and not actually taking advice, ignoring problems all that time, you could have avoided it all by simply being a little proactive.

This forum is rather slow these days, not a lot of traffic from people with good advice to offer. If you're willing to take advice on a forum, you should be fine with prices to fix you truck sight unseen. It's not like anyone on a forum can give you a psychic connection you your truck and tell you what is wrong. No codes, fine. You need to check line pressure ad monitor live data from the PCM. Have you done either? Have you had someone hook up diagnostics to monitor individual sensor signals, transmission function, torque converter lockup, or any other singular diagnostic? No. All you've done is go to a few places that see you for the sucker you seem to be and get on forums where you are getting answers you don't like, so you ***** about it all. I have ZERO sympathy for someone who can't be compelled to be proactive, to actually go address the issue.

You're asking for advice, here's some additional, in depth advice: Buy a repair manual for your truck. Not a cheesy one book covers all general repairs manual at a parts store, an actual Ford Service Manual on DVD (the dealer doesn't like to sell them, check eBay.) You'll need an array of tools to diagnose the issues, a copy of Auto Enginuity is the best you'll do for engine and transmission data stream based diagnostics without buying a Snap-On device that will cost more than the transmission shops are quoting you for a finished repair. You'll need a DVOM minimum, a DVOM with oscilloscope functions would be better, you'll need it to watch sensor signals. You'll need a good quality set of pressure and temperature gauges to hook up to the transmission and monitor the actual transmission pressures and temperatures. If you're keeping count, you're pushing well past $1000 in diagnostic manuals and tools, if you don't have them already. You may want to consider schmoozing a shop with a good reputation in your area to reduce those costs to a couple hours of shop rate for diagnostic purposes. A good shop will not blindly shoot you a price, you obviously have not found a good shop yet.

And with that, I wish you luck, because you need that more than my advice right now.




Sent by my right thumb!

The Current Truck (Oct-2013 to Present):
1999 (Early) F-350 Lariat, CCLB, SRW, Black/Tan

7.3L Powerstroke, 4R100, 4x4, 3.73, 37x13.50-18s, '05 Axle Swap, 6" Fabtech lift, GTP38 "D66" turbo upgrade, SCT 4-position chip with custom tuning by me, Straight Piped 4" down pipe through 5" dual stacks, N-Fab full length triple steps, Pro-Tech cab guard and tool box, louvered 5th wheel gate, Hella 500 Fog and Driving lamps, much more to come...
The one I'll miss, (Mar-2009 to Jan-2014):
2000 Excursion XLT 4x4

6.8L V-10, 4R100, 4.30, 285/75-18, 271whp / 388wtq
The one I won't, (Jul-2005 to Sep-2012):
2005 F-350 XLT, CCLB, SRW, 4x4 FX4

6.0L PSD, ZF-6S650, 3.73, 35x12.5-18, 4.5" Lift
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-02-2015, 08:06 PM
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Possibilities

Automatic Transmissions are fairly complicated. I went through school on them a long time ago and have worked on a couple over the years.

What you're describing sounds like clutches slipping. It can be due to worn clutch packs, low pressure due to an internal leak or bad pump, and/or an electronic issue or a combination of any of the three. The only way to diagnose it would be to tear it down and test each component.

Because you've driven it so long with the problem I would bet that even if the clutch packs weren't worn out due to low pressure when the problem started, they're probably worn out now from slipping.

It sounds like the transmission shops want to swap out your transmission for a rebuilt. I would do the same thing because you're going to end up replacing clutches, pumps and seals if you tear it down. If you're handy you could probably do the swap yourself.
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