torque converter - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-30-2006, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question torque converter

Ok hers the deal I put a 6" lift on my 2000 f 250 7.3 power stroke, the lift kit is a suspension lift not a body lift. so hers the problem I am having after putting the shims in, I still get a little shutter at start, I took the truck down to a ford dealer and talked to the shop Forman witch is a friend of mine, according to him because its short bed I am stuck with the shutter at take off. I called banks and was talking to salesman about the 5" exsust and mention the shutter at take of and he said its the torque converter, now I am really confused should I listen to my friend ore listen to this guy who would like me to by there torque converter at a 1000 dollars. Anyway has anyone had this problem and can help with it before I go and spend a lot of money. Thanks:shrug:
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-30-2006, 02:16 PM
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You shouldnt have any shutter...my 2000 had some shutter and I took it to the dealer and had the filter and oil changed and it went away. Has the tranny been serviced lately?...How many miles are on it?

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-30-2006, 07:09 PM
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I'd check the U-joint angles on the rear driveshaft. The angles between the yoke centerlines and shaft centerline should be equal at each end, both vertical and horizontal. I think you can be a total of 2 degrees off (combined horizontal and vertical) for every 12" of shaft length. Anything more will lead to vibrations. Shortbeds are more likely to exhibit problems like this because the U-joints are at more severe angles after a lift due to the short rear driveshaft. Sometimes you can lower the transfer case a bit with spacers, but the best cure is usually to point the rear axle's driveshaft yoke at the transfer case's rear yoke and use a CV joint at the front of the rear shaft.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-30-2006, 07:19 PM
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I'm going to move this to the 7.3 section.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-01-2006, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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i am new you can tell. thanks
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-01-2006, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NH2112
I'd check the U-joint angles on the rear driveshaft. The angles between the yoke centerlines and shaft centerline should be equal at each end, both vertical and horizontal. I think you can be a total of 2 degrees off (combined horizontal and vertical) for every 12" of shaft length. Anything more will lead to vibrations. Shortbeds are more likely to exhibit problems like this because the U-joints are at more severe angles after a lift due to the short rear driveshaft. Sometimes you can lower the transfer case a bit with spacers, but the best cure is usually to point the rear axle's driveshaft yoke at the transfer case's rear yoke and use a CV joint at the front of the rear shaft.
What he said:Thumbup:
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-15-2006, 04:25 AM
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I do not think it should be the t/c. When starting off from a dead stop the t/c is a fluid coupler, meaning the clutch is not being used thus a smooth transfer of power. The clutch is what if any part of a t/c that would cause a shudder and it isn't until 3rd and 4th gears that the t/c locks the clutch. Remember you were talking to a salesman, his/her job is to sell stuff and to do so requires telling lies at times, or making a wild guess. I agree it sounds like a driveshaft issue. If you rear shaft is a two piece shaft did you shim the carrier bearing when the lift was installed? Have someone watch the rear diff to see if there is any twisting when the shutter happens. Can also be slip joint splines binding.
If you are ever in the market for a t/c I highly recommend Precision Industries. 901-466-0267.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-17-2006, 10:09 PM
 
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How much did you lower the carrier? I have heard of people going down 4" on a 6" lift. I don't really see why, but it seems it helped some folks. 4" seems a bit more than needed, but just sharing what I read. I would think an inch or two would be fine, but you never know...

The extra angle could also be causing suspect u-joints to act up, so make sure they are in good shape.

Like Ggg stated, some folks also say that the slip joint drying out can cause this. It doesn't have a grease fitting, so you just remove the drive shaft (good time to check the u-joint) and load up the splines with grease. Here are some pics on how to do it.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-30-2006, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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a little late on the thanks guys.
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