99 f250 7.3 no start - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-29-2017, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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99 f250 7.3 no start

I bought a non running 1999 7.3 f250 I changed glow plugs, hpop, starter, ICP, UVC, MAP, IPR, CPS and new batteries. It cranks over good and strong but don't fire even with ether. Fuel and oil reservoirs are full. I don't see smoke from exhaust pipe when cranking. The low fuel, oil, tem light comes on when creating. The RPM gauge don't move. I'm thinking maybe injector O- ring but not sure how to test without pulling each one. Or is there something I missed ? It's my first 7.3 .... Thanks in advance. I have read a lot of threads but still fill Lost

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-31-2017, 02:11 AM
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I am thinking for your 7.3 to start it needs three things. Air: Is the cam turning and in time for it to pull air in. Fuel: Ether. Ignition: By compression in this case and ether does not require much. A bad injector o-ring would not cause all cylinders to loose compression and it should fire on ether. Saw a 6.9 sprayed with wd40 and ether at the same time. The oil helped it build enough compression to fire up. It ran a few minutes and smoked out the whole shop. Found out the block heater had fallen out causing it to run so hot the rings were collapsed. Someone else had put an expansion plug in and filled the coolant but could not get it to run. Hope your luck is better.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-31-2017, 04:43 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks.. how can I check if it's in time or not. This is my first V8 diesel ... My big truck I'd pull the valve cover and it's right there on top.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-31-2017, 11:59 AM
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This info from Ziggster's files....

You need to line up the scribe mark on the pump flange with the scribe mark on the pump gear housing. That's essentially it to start with. Hopefully the gear housing hasn't been removed, 'cause if it has it is possible the pump timing gear has been moved, and it is very difficult(but not impossible) to get it back to the right spot.

On the housing that's mounted on the top front of the engine where the pump bolts into, There is a small line about 1/4" long stamped into the rear/upper face of the housing just where the pump would mate to the housing. Likewise, on the pump almost at exactly the same spot on the flange of the pump where it bolts to the housing is a similar line scribed into onto the top of the pump flange.

The idea is that when you put the pump into the housing on the engine, and if you have those two marks lined up such that the almost form one 1/2" Long line, then the timing will be close enough that the engine should start and run. This is known as static timing.

Dynamic timing via luminosity is done where a probe is put into the cylinder, and actually sees the light from the explosion of the fuel, and the timing is set accordingly.

Some of us set the timing by "ear". This comes from some experimentation and experience.
I like mine so that when the engine is cold, as the cold advance is on, the engine rattles pretty loud, but once the cold advance drops off, then the rattle smooths out and the engine is much more quiet. If you have it too advanced, then it makes that loud rattle all the time, often accompanied by lots of black smoke, and if too retarded, will sound kinda flat most of the time, lack power, and often not smoke at all, or may even smoke greyish/whitish(unburned fuel).
When you are standing at the front of the truck facing the engine, if you turn the pump couterclockwise(top of the pump to the passenger side) you'll be advancing the timing, and obviously clockwise will retard the timing.

If you line up the gear cover and pump top center lines you will be able to start it.

The marks on the pump to housing are only accurate if it is the original pump from the factory. Turning the injection pump 1/16" to either side (measured at the pump to housing flange marks) that's about 4 deg. Turning IP to pax side is advancing timing, to drivers side is retarding, engine off for all adjustments and tighten nuts on IP before start.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-31-2017, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Jasong thank you. Great explanation and instructions on how to set it. I am working long hours this week so I will probably do it this weekend. Thanks

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-01-2017, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Durfee View Post
Jasong thank you. Great explanation and instructions on how to set it. I am working long hours this week so I will probably do it this weekend. Thanks
No credit to me.
It was an old writeup by Ziggster.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 03:58 AM Thread Starter
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Lol I see that now that you mentioned it... So thanks for sharing it

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 01:08 AM
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Let us know what you find out.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-04-2017, 01:11 AM Thread Starter
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Timing the older 7.3 injector pump seems to be just as described but I have a hpop in that location and so it's not making any sense

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Update tested the IDM and I'm not getting power out to the injectors

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