00 psd hard startin? - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-03-2009, 04:24 AM Thread Starter
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00 psd hard startin?

Okay guys im stumped I have a 2000 ford f350 6speed and on cold mornings is will not start is sounds like it hits then miss then hits again the only way I have been able to start it is with the trottle mashed then it will start ..i plugged it in same thing... I have cycled the glow plugs three sometimes more and still same ole thing. Im thinking the fuel pump is getting weak ? the glow plugs have been checked seems to be alright but i have never had a truck do this when glow plugs need replaced.So im asking you guys to help me out I have a trip to make to MI to get a truck and need this thing tip top shape.

ohh and the mods bullydog and icp mod and ats housing and custom center section.

would the bully dog make it hard to start ? smokes like a freight train and I drive it like a airplane

thanks steve
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-03-2009, 04:32 AM
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is their oil in the fuel filter houseing?


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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-03-2009, 05:03 AM
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could be the GPR

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Originally Posted by sledneck57
Your sweating like a queer holding a hot dog.lol.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-03-2009, 01:05 PM
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I have the same truck and mine was doing the same thing. I changed the GPR (glow plug relay) and it fixed the problem.

2000 F-350 srw reg cab zf6, TS 6 position chip,AEM intake,4" SS MBRP exhaust, LUK solid fly wheel clutch kit, ATS turbo housing, Boost Fooler,Oil cross over line,Auto meter pyro and boost gauges.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-03-2009, 01:27 PM
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Check the Glow Plug Relay.

Get a MULTI METER - Digital is BEST and no a "test light" will NOT work. Place it so it can be seen from inside the cab (like resting on the hood/cowl panel). Set the meter to read at least 12V (15V or 20V is better).

1) Test for a good voltage and ground TO the GPR:
- Place each of the leads on one of the SMALLER teminals of the GPR.
- Voltage should be about 0v with the key OFF.
- Turn the ignition to "RUN",
- With the WTS light ON, you should read about 10v to 12v on the meter. If so, the GPR power and ground control circuits are working and the GPR *should* be supplying power to the GPs.

2) Test GPR function:
- Place one lead of the MM on each of the LARGER terminals on the GPR.
- Set the MM to read between 0v and 12V (20 is fine too).
- Turn the ignition to "RUN", WHILE the WTS light is ON, note the voltage shown on the MM.
- Voltage MUST be between 0V and 1V (ignore the "-" sign if you see it), anything else = BAD.

3) Test GPR main power (if everything checks ok to here):
- Connect the BLACK wire from the MM to BATTERY ground (DO NOT use ANY other ground).
- With the ignition OFF and the RED wire of the MM, find out which LARGER terminal is "always hot", connect it there.
- Turn the ignition to "RUN" and with the WTS light ON read the MM.
- If the indicated voltage is 10V to 12V the power to the GPR is good.
- If the voltage is LOWER than 10V do step #4

4) Check battery power and grounds:
- Connect the BLACK lead of the MM to BATTERY GROUND.
- Connect the RED lead of the MM to an ENGINE GROUND.
- Turn the ignition to "RUN".
- With the WTS light ON, note the voltage on the MM.
- 0v to 1/2v (0.5v) = GOOD ground to the engine.
- 1.0v or more = BAD GROUND to engine.
- If everything is in spec, do #5.

5) Check batteries:
- Connect BOTH MM leads to a BATTERY terminal.
- Turn the ignition to "RUN" and with the WTS light on you should get 10v to 12v (9.6v is the MINIMUM allowed).
- Ensure the MM and leads are CLEAR OF MOVING PARTS!
- Turn the ignition to "START".
- MM should indicate 9.6v MINIMUM.
- Less than 9.6v during cranking = bad battery (or two), undercharged system (alternator or worn down from previous cranking or dome light etc), or bad connection of meter leads.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-03-2009, 01:52 PM
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If you suspect fuel delivery. Check it out. Before starting or turning the key, pull the fuel filter lid. See if it's full. Then replace, Drain the bowl into a container. (PUT a rubber hose onto the metal tube for the fuel drain run it down through the crossmember)
Have someone turn the key while you hold the jar there. It should come out with decent pressure, and should fill a quart in about 15 seconds IIRC. These things require about 50+ lbs of pressure, and good VOLUME to run well.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-03-2009, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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no oil in the housing. I have a extra glow plug relay ill test it today and replace it if needed
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-04-2009, 02:41 AM
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GPR. I replaced mine with a stancor 586-902 and it works great. I got it online from Allied electronics.

2002 F350 4x4 7.3L
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-04-2009, 09:45 PM
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Check fuel pressure.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-05-2009, 03:03 AM Thread Starter
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Im going to check it when it get cold tonight and see if I notice anything..

thanks though ill let you all know
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