Alot to learn about 7.3 PSD - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-18-2006, 01:32 AM Thread Starter
 
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Question Alot to learn about 7.3 PSD

I just bought a F350 crew cab with 7.3 PSD. The truck has a 6 or 8'' lift with 36x15.50x16.5 wheels. The truck is cool and very big with lots of power but it's stock power. The thing I'm looking for is for someone to point me in the right direction on mods for the 7.3 and suspension. I am going to use the truck as a Daly driver mostly highway miles. But i need it to be a good hauler for heavy loads and kick *** off-road. It would be cool if someone could help.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-18-2006, 03:33 AM
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I have little experience as far as lift kits are concerned. I am more concerned with go-fast and towing grunt than trying to reduce the number of garages and parking ramps my truck will fit into. But I do know that going with big wheels & tires sometimes plays heck with the POS wheel bearing hubs and causes premature bearing failure. A Dynatrac front axle bearing conversion will prevent front bearing faulures due to big wheels & tires.

As for the 7.3, before you do any engine mods, GET GAUGES!!
EGT & boost as a minimum. Tranny temp is recommended.

Then go with a 4" exhaust, ( or do a muffler delete on the factory exhaust as a minimum) better air intake and tuning.

There are several ways to go for tuning. If you have an early 99, get a new 99.5 and later PCM from DP-Tuner with a PMT-1 80HP econo tune. That was the best thing I ever did to my truck. After that if you desire a more variety of tunes, or if you already have a 99.5 or later, there are a variety of tuners out there. Any of them can provide you with single or multi-position chips. DP-Tuner just happens to be my favorite. I'm sure others will chime in recommending their favorites.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-18-2006, 05:30 AM
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With 36" tires a gear swap to 4.30's will give you a lot more power out of the hole and take a lot of strain off the transmission. 4.10's will get you close to original performance, but the stock 3.73's are too tall for my taste even with stock tires especially if you plan to tow over 8,000# frequently. You mileage is going to suffer from the tires regardless of which gear you choose, the choice is to save 1/2mpg or pay for a transmission rebuild sooner (especially if you mod the engine with the stock gears and 36's)

I'd concentrate on the transmission first, a VB swap or Sonnex/Tricummulator kit will help shifting quite a bit, after that a tranny cooler from a 6.0L truck will keep it from overheating, I'd also recommend replacing the 3/8" steel lines with 1/2" rubber hose front to back (the 6.0's have 1/2" steel and the cooler has 1/2" barbs for hose) Lose the radiator cooler altogether (it will be a restriction anyway) and the bypass valve assembly on the side of the transmission (where the banjo bolts hold the short tube in place) install pipe threaded barb fittings in the holes to fit the hose (you'll need one 90* and one 45*, also, one is 1/2MPT and one is 3/8MPT) I used the 3/8MTP-45* in the front hole and routed the hose behind the dipstick tube, the 1/2MPT-90* goes in the back hole.

The bypass is ONLY in case your factory cooler plugs COMPLETELY up, when you see the size of the 6.0 cooler, you'll see that's totally impossible (the 6.0 tranny's don't have the bypass)

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-18-2006, 05:36 AM
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yeah they do eat front wheel bearings, in my dads 99 F-250 with a 4" lift and 35's he replaced both front wheel bearings more than once....

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-18-2006, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banksforddiesel99
yeah they do eat front wheel bearings, in my dads 99 F-250 with a 4" lift and 35's he replaced both front wheel bearings more than once....
If you keep the wheel centered over the hub (with correct backspacing) you will extend the life of those bearings considerably, it makes it tough to go much higher than 33's though.

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 12-18-2006, 06:16 AM
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First of all 2:
I don't know much about the suspension stuff but as for the power mods...
As stated above get a turbo back exhaust system or do it cheap with a high flow muffler and stock exhaust. Not sure what the part number is but I know there is a Walker muffler that works out good. Just replace the original muffler and gut the cat and you're good to go.
Get a air intake of some sort on it. If you want to spend some money on it the AFE stage 2 kit looks great. You can make up a cheap TYMAR intake by going to NAPA (or where ever you buy parts) and buy a few clamps and a big paper element filter and you will have basically the same performance as the AFE with filtration equal to the stock filter. Click here for some part numbers. The instructions are for the 94 - 97's but it basically the same with the SD trucks. I think you can get the stock rubber boot to slip over the filter and not use the exhaust tubing in between on the Superduty's but it may sit in a little better with the tubing.

After that I would get some gauges. Personally I think the intake and exhaust can do no more harm to your engine than the stock intake and exhaust, so why would gauges be absolutely necessary?

Next would be a chip. You will definitly need gauges before adding a chip. There are endless choices for chips. I have one from Tony Wildman and am very happy with it. A lot of people like the chips from DP Tuner as well.

Gears - I would change to whatever it takes to get your rpm back to stock with 3.73 gears and stock tires. Probably 4.30 or 4.56
My truck has 4.10 gears with stock size tires. It probably sacrafices a little fuel economy empty but it is PERFECT for towing. I wouldn't be supprized if it gets better economy towing (6000 lbs or more) with the 4.10's.

Have fun with your truck and hold on to your wallet

Eric
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