Injectors on 94 - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-27-2006, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
 
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Injectors on 94

Does anybody know how to remove the injectors from a 94 7.3DI? I've gotten to them and I think I removed all the hardware, but they just don't seem to budge.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-27-2006, 04:25 PM
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Check out this install sheet... should help.

http://www.beansdieselperformance.co...torinstall.htm

01 F-250 SC PSD,210k,16 Isspro Gauges, AFE-2,CCV Mod,IAH delete,map reg,Modded H2e, 6.0 IC, GTS Hybrid injectors, Studs, 910 Valve springs, Forged rods Water injection,Swamps tuned, MBRP 4" dual's, Aero, 6" tip's, 100 axl tank, 4" Revtek lift, 37-14.50-17 TOYO MT's 469hp and 1068tq...

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-27-2006, 05:10 PM
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Make sure u release the oil and fuel pressure firts, then unplug the wiring, then remove the two 8mm bolts that hold it down. There is a removel tool out there to help, but i just use a small pry bar and gently pry up on them, put the pry bar under the hold down that the bolts were run through.

BE VERY CAREFULL WHEN U TRY THIS!!!! MISTAKES ARE $$$$$$$!!!!

Check the holes when u pull them out to make sure the copper ring off the end of the injector came out with it!

Hope this helps!:Thumbup:

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-28-2006, 03:35 PM
 
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What he said^^^^^^^^. They are just pretty tight. I really had to pry on mine.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-28-2006, 05:28 PM
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MOST IMPORTANTLY!... Drain the oil from the oil rail on the head FIRST, let it drain a LONG TIME (30 minutes+) before you remove ANY injector on that bank. There are TWO small drain plugs under the valve cover, between the #1-2 injectors, and between the #3-4 injectors (from memory). These plugs are TIGHT, and cheap tools will not remove them. DO NOT remove the large plug on the rear of the cylinder head unless you have a GOOD Tq wrench, easy access, and a NEW plug from the dealer - or you will have an oil leak later.

Remove the one bolt you can reach, the other DOES NOT get loosened or removed.

Disconnect the wiring harness from the injector.

Using an angled screwdriver or prybar, CAREFULLY pry upwards on the bottom of the injector hold-down until it is free.

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-28-2006, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_G
MOST IMPORTANTLY!... Drain the oil from the oil rail on the head FIRST, let it drain a LONG TIME (30 minutes+) before you remove ANY injector on that bank. There are TWO small drain plugs under the valve cover, between the #1-2 injectors, and between the #3-4 injectors (from memory). These plugs are TIGHT, and cheap tools will not remove them. DO NOT remove the large plug on the rear of the cylinder head unless you have a GOOD Tq wrench, easy access, and a NEW plug from the dealer - or you will have an oil leak later.

Remove the one bolt you can reach, the other DOES NOT get loosened or removed.

Disconnect the wiring harness from the injector.

Using an angled screwdriver or prybar, CAREFULLY pry upwards on the bottom of the injector hold-down until it is free.
John, altho that is the Correct way of doing it, it is also the hard way. If you just remove the two rear injectors all the oil will drain into them (most...). Then hand crank the motor over when all the injectors are out and the oil will get pushed out... Do yourself a favor and put some rags over the holes... It comes out of there at a high rate of speed...

01 F-250 SC PSD,210k,16 Isspro Gauges, AFE-2,CCV Mod,IAH delete,map reg,Modded H2e, 6.0 IC, GTS Hybrid injectors, Studs, 910 Valve springs, Forged rods Water injection,Swamps tuned, MBRP 4" dual's, Aero, 6" tip's, 100 axl tank, 4" Revtek lift, 37-14.50-17 TOYO MT's 469hp and 1068tq...

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-28-2006, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSIPSD
John, altho that is the Correct way of doing it, it is also the hard way. If you just remove the two rear injectors all the oil will drain into them (most...). Then hand crank the motor over when all the injectors are out and the oil will get pushed out... Do yourself a favor and put some rags over the holes... It comes out of there at a high rate of speed...
hahah yes yes it does.. also once ur all done and injectors are back in the holes.. pull the GPs and then crank the motor jumping the starter solenoid with the valve covers just lightly bolted in place and it will push the rest of the fuel and oil out. do this twice for 15sec. with a bit of a wait period to cool the starter
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-28-2006, 06:18 PM
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Removing two small plugs is hard?

Granted, it takes another couple of minutes, but to my way of thinking nothing beats KNOWING you will not bend a connecting rod.

'93 F-250 HD, 7.3L IDI, 5spd - FARM TRUCK
I Support: Trailer brakes an every axle over the towing vehicle's GVW; CDLs for RVers; Safety inspections for ALL vehicles and 6 axle trucks (97K GVW proposal).

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-28-2006, 06:25 PM
 
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i usually pull the injectors, intall new injectors, remove glow plugs and crank engine over to get oil/fuel out. Just make sure you put the valve cover on with a couple bolts or you'll have a nice mess to clean up.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-28-2006, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_G
Removing two small plugs is hard?

Granted, it takes another couple of minutes, but to my way of thinking nothing beats KNOWING you will not bend a connecting rod.
you do have a point john. but that extra step takes alot longer.. and u pretty much are stuck doing nothing during that 30mins or so..
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