Need Input... 97 F250 Cc Sb - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-04-2007, 04:51 AM Thread Starter
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Need Input... 97 F250 Cc Sb

I am looking at buying a 97 CC SB f250, the truck has 160,000 miles on it, interior is good, under side is dry, no smoke, starts up good, drives out good and it has new tires. the interior is very clean as well, tranny shifts good

I know it has the twin i beam front suspension which i am not too fond of but thats just a dana 60 away. i am just looking for input from any of you that might know more about these models than i do. i have not had older than a 99

Please post all thoughts, replies good and bad..

thanks

2000 F250 Crew Cab, Short Bed, Oxford White, 305x70x16 BFG A/T K/O, 16x10 Alum. Wheels, XM and other stereo goodies, Autometer Ultralite Guages (TRANS, PYRO, BOOST) 3.73's, Dp-Tuner F5 w/ 60tow, 80tow, 80econo, 100, 120, 140 :Thumbup: , AFE Stage II, 4" SS Sraight Pipe, B & W Turnover and Tow n Stow receiver hitch, 08' Tailgate (thanx to Blowin' Smoke) rhino-liner, 05' Grille, newer drink holder, Kobalt full width chest, boost fooler
SOLD 07/08

1989 Dodge W250 Regular Cab (purchased from original owner 10/31/09)
AT, A/C
120,00 miles
needs some goodies
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-04-2007, 05:40 AM
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Possibly the best looking truck Ford has built in years! If I could have found a clean one, I would be driving one instead of the 99.

At 160K it's just getting broke in! If it feels good, jump on it!
I'm sure you know what your looking at and what to look for, but here is some great info from Baz's web page

Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel
Turbo:

You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.

Airbox:

Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.

Tranny:

If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.

Rear Gear Ratio:

4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.

Coolant:

Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).

Front end:

Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)

Oil:

The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.

Aftermarket stuff:

Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.

Glow Plugs/Relay:

Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...f=21&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.

Injector o-rings:

The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.

Leaks and Drips:

You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.

VIN number:

If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.

1999.5 PSD, 4x4, Auto trans, 6.0 Trans cooler, ZooDad Mod, ISSPRO Trans - boost - EGT gauges, Wicked Wheel, 5inch Stainless tip, 315 75 17 BFG AT's, ProComp 9000's at the corners, Fumatomo Valve, Pooned tank, DP Tuner F5 w/ 80 tow, 80 econo, 120 race and permagrin!
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-04-2007, 11:50 AM
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So far so good with mine!:Thumbup: I bought it with around 50,000 on it, and mine has turned over 140,000 now.

Definitely print out Baz's truck checklist, take it with you, and check out all of the items listed. It is very helpful, plus you will know a bit about the truck and where everything is, and the condition of the items.

I have serviced / replaced the expected items (tires, brakes, water pump, GPR, batteries, e-brake cables, fluid changes, so far one ball joint, etc...). But overall, love it. It doesn't make the biggest power out there, but it makes a fine truck!:Thumbup:

About the TTB, I wouldn't be that afraid of it, or hate it. Yes, I do agree that I would rather have a D60 under the front, but my 'desire' is strictly for looks only. The TTB has held up great under mine, and I have not seen ANY abnormal tire wear from the unit. I do have the front end aligned at tire change intervals and have not have a bit of problems.

But keep us posted to your adventures! Good Luck!

2008 Dodge 2500 Mega Ram, SLT, Powered by a little 'ol 408 cubic inch six cylinder!!!

Chrysler's warranty = Not worth the paper it is printed on!!!

Gone, but not forgotten!!!
1997 FORD F-250 HD
7.3L, XLT, Off-Road Package
3.55's, E4OD, 4wd, Dana 60 swap, 3" Sky RSK, 315/70/17's on Racelines.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-04-2007, 12:59 PM
 
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I have always like the 94-97 trucks for looks. 97 is the pick of them. Last and strongest diesel E4ODS, Psd makes a little more HP. No reason to avoid the early trucks, unless you like the SD years better.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-04-2007, 01:35 PM
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About the TTB, I wouldn't be that afraid of it, or hate it. Yes, I do agree that I would rather have a D60 under the front, but my 'desire' is strictly for looks only. The TTB has held up great under mine, and I have not seen ANY abnormal tire wear from the unit. I do have the front end aligned at tire change intervals and have not have a bit of problems.
Not wanting to hijack but my 96 F350 2wd with the Twin I Beam is having some front tire wear issues. Does the place that sets your alignment go to factory specs or have they got there own range for making these work?

Also the truck is towing 90% of the time and I am blaming it partially on the slight front end bounce that I get while towing.
Was also wondering if it would be best to have it aligned with the trailer hooked on?

BTW when I was shoping for trucks I was really shoping for a 99 - up truck so that I wouldn't have to mod as much to get good power and would have a solid front axle, I also prefer the looks of the SD trucks (intereior especially). Other than these 3 main differences the trucks are not that much different while in use!! Oh yeah, the OBS trucks are way easier to work on under the hood!!!

As you can see I bought a 96, but mainly because I found a deal I couldn't pass up. Since then I have been extremely impressed on the performance and towing ability of my truck. I would now say that my main area of concern lies in the front suspension.

Eric
96 F-350 CC Dually My TDG Gallery
B codes, head studs, Comp 910 valve springs, stock turbo w/ 1.00 turbine housing
6.0 IC, NAPA 6637 air filter, AeroTurbine 4040XL, ITP Overboost Annihilator,
Quadzilla Commander, electric fuel system w/ regulated return
coolant filter, 203* thermostat
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346.7HP, 852.1TQ 12/15/07 Greeley, CO w/ stage 1 injectors and Wildman tunes
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-04-2007, 07:04 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racehauler
Not wanting to hijack but my 96 F350 2wd with the Twin I Beam is having some front tire wear issues. Does the place that sets your alignment go to factory specs or have they got there own range for making these work?

Also the truck is towing 90% of the time and I am blaming it partially on the slight front end bounce that I get while towing.
Was also wondering if it would be best to have it aligned with the trailer hooked on?

BTW when I was shoping for trucks I was really shoping for a 99 - up truck so that I wouldn't have to mod as much to get good power and would have a solid front axle, I also prefer the looks of the SD trucks (intereior especially). Other than these 3 main differences the trucks are not that much different while in use!! Oh yeah, the OBS trucks are way easier to work on under the hood!!!

As you can see I bought a 96, but mainly because I found a deal I couldn't pass up. Since then I have been extremely impressed on the performance and towing ability of my truck. I would now say that my main area of concern lies in the front suspension.
The center bushing wears faster it seems. Maybe from the step over bumps action. Anything over 150,000 and it's about due for ball joints and T ends anytime.

My D-50 broke the rear hanger bracket . Thats a mess, wheel bends real bad. Lucky or something because it broke while taking off from a red light. Looked like it never was torqued down on the assembly line. The bolt heads all had rubbed patterns into the bracket and it sheared the ear of it off. Not enough play to warn something was wrong at all. Had Ford and NHTA run a defect seach and there were no other reports. At 68,000 and 5 yrs old no warranty, so you know who paid-gulp.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-04-2007, 08:20 PM
 
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Not to Hijack either, but does anyone know what it costs to put a dana 60 under one of these trucks?
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-04-2007, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HIGH MILEAGE ELITE
I am looking at buying a 97 CC SB f250, the truck has 160,000 miles on it, interior is good, under side is dry, no smoke, starts up good, drives out good and it has new tires. the interior is very clean as well, tranny shifts good

I know it has the twin i beam front suspension which i am not too fond of but thats just a dana 60 away. i am just looking for input from any of you that might know more about these models than i do. i have not had older than a 99

Please post all thoughts, replies good and bad..

thanks
I wouldn't pass up an good OBS. I personaly did not like the short box 97 i had at all. I wouldn't get nothing but a long box. I have 155,000 on my 97 with the E40D and it shifts great still. I say go for it :Thumbup:

04 Ford F250 4x4 Crew Cab Long Box ZF6 Manual.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-05-2007, 05:07 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks For All Of The Input, Keep Any Other Thoughts Coming, This Guy Also Has An 2002 Ext Cab F250 Long Bed, At, 180,000miles On It, Dark Red Exterior Good And Clean If Any One Wants Any More Information Let Me Know And I'll Try To Get It

2000 F250 Crew Cab, Short Bed, Oxford White, 305x70x16 BFG A/T K/O, 16x10 Alum. Wheels, XM and other stereo goodies, Autometer Ultralite Guages (TRANS, PYRO, BOOST) 3.73's, Dp-Tuner F5 w/ 60tow, 80tow, 80econo, 100, 120, 140 :Thumbup: , AFE Stage II, 4" SS Sraight Pipe, B & W Turnover and Tow n Stow receiver hitch, 08' Tailgate (thanx to Blowin' Smoke) rhino-liner, 05' Grille, newer drink holder, Kobalt full width chest, boost fooler
SOLD 07/08

1989 Dodge W250 Regular Cab (purchased from original owner 10/31/09)
AT, A/C
120,00 miles
needs some goodies
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