1997 powerstroke what problems do these have - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-09-2007, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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1997 powerstroke what problems do these have

right now i'm looking at a 1997 f250 with the automatic and 4-wheel drive, i just want to know what problems i might run into with it, it has 239,000 miles, also it is selling for $9,000 is that a good price it drives great just not as much power as i expected. what should i look at on it to know if i should buy it or not. also they are getting a 2001 chevy duramax with 200,000 miles and selling for 13,000 would that be the one to go with. i really like my dads durmax. any help on this would be great i just don't want to buy a truck and then put alot of money into it diesels aren't cheap to replace. well any info that anyone can give me would be helpful.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-09-2007, 12:01 PM
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they are asking way too much for the powerstroke with that many miles
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-09-2007, 09:14 PM
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Too much money for the 97 is right. Is it a Ext. Cab SB, LB or Crew Cab SB or Reg Cab LB????

04 Ford F250 4x4 Crew Cab Long Box ZF6 Manual.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-09-2007, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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it is a ex-cab long box 4x4 f250 also why is that too much its in good to excellent condition, and the blue book is $11,500, any info to why thats too much is appreciated. Also what should it be selling for.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-10-2007, 06:00 AM
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What to look for when buying a used PSD

From Baz's page;
Things To Look For When Buying A Used Power Stroke Diesel

You might take the air tube off the back of the air filter and look inside of it. If there is dirt build up, that is a very bad sign, so are the turbo fins looking sand blasted or bent. A little oily film is normal since the valve cover breather exits inside the tube.


Check the two bolts holding down the airbox lid. If they are plastic with a square recess, it is a recalled part. The recall is expired, but without the updated lid the risk of dirt infiltration is greater, the lid was updated with more supports and the updated bolts are metal with a straight slot. If it is the old style, you spend around $80 to update it.


If you buy a truck with an auto tranny, finding out if it's been maintained is essential, as the E4OD is an expensive transmission. Also, (if auto) seeing if the truck has an auxiliary transmission cooler would be worthwhile. For sticks, listen for clunking when shutting off or small vibration while operating. It could be an indication of a dual mass flywheel going out. Many have replaced them with single mass units.

Rear Gear Ratio:

4:10 will pull better, get slightly lower mpg’s and run a higher RPM compared to 3:55.


Ask the previous owner about the coolant - have they been adding FW16 or DCA4 to keep a proper SCA level? It is very important for stopping cavitation. You can get test strips to check the SCA level from NAPA, International, or Ford. I would test the current condition while looking over the truck, the SCA level should be between 1.5 and 3.0. Also, see if it has a block heater (it was an option on 97's).

Front end:

Check the front end for wear, or have an alignment shop check out the ball joints and steering linkage (tie rod ends). If they are shot, it is spendy (all four tie rods are around $400 just for parts, ball joint labor is also very spendy)


The questions to ask are how often the oil was changed (at least every 5,000) and what kind of oil they used (diesel rated)? An oil analysis could tell you if there might be an engine problem or not.

Aftermarket stuff:

Seeing if the truck has got an aftermarket downpipe would be nice, a chip, or gauges (pyrometer, trans temp, etc.). Ask about any added items and who installed them.

Glow Plugs/Relay:

Find out if the glow plugs are in good working condition as well as the relay. Ask if either has been changed and when. You can check the glow plug resistance through the valve cover connector if needed (http://forums.ford-diesel.com/cgi-bi...f=21&t=005210), and the relay should have power to both large terminals on top when the key is turned on, and one of the terminals should go out before ~2 minutes.

Injector o-rings:

The injector O-rings have been known to be a problem. The new o-ring sets have a pink middle seal. If the truck has an o-ring problem, one of the signs can be a discoloration of the fuel in the filter bowl. There is a drain on the passenger side front of the filter bowl for draining water (the filter is also the water separator) and you can catch some of the drained fuel in a jar – it should be dingy yellow and not blue or dark.

Leaks and Drips:

You can check the valley between the heads of the V8 for moisture and/or fluid. It should be dry not wet. Most leaks will run through this valley and down the back of the motor dripping off by the tranny/engine coupling.

VIN number:

If you take the VIN to any dealer, they can tell you when it was built, when it went into service, and some of the work that might have been done on it. You can also run prospective VIN's through Carfax.com to see the title history.

My son is looking at a 97 SC, log box PSD 4x4 w/158k very well kept. Asking price is $8900.00

Good luck with your choice!:Thumbup:

1999.5 PSD, 4x4, Auto trans, 6.0 Trans cooler, ZooDad Mod, ISSPRO Trans - boost - EGT gauges, Wicked Wheel, 5inch Stainless tip, 315 75 17 BFG AT's, ProComp 9000's at the corners, Fumatomo Valve, Pooned tank, DP Tuner F5 w/ 80 tow, 80 econo, 120 race and permagrin!
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-12-2007, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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does anyone have anything else to add i could really use the help. also when i test drove this truck when i started it, the truck didn't want to idle and had a lot of black smoke. this was at 35 degree F. and it sat for a while on the lot. but should i worry or is this normal for the conditions.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-12-2007, 02:37 PM
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Probably didn't let the glow plugs run long enough, but at that temp it doesn't take too long and they should start good.

Possibly needs a glow plug relay. They cost about 25 to 30 bucks and when they get old can "eat up" a lot of the power going to the glow plugs.

I would go over again and fire it up at about 15 to 20 degrees. Wait about 10 seconds after the Wait To Start light goes out and fire it up. If it runs rough and smokes some again I would mention it to the salesman and see if you can get them to look in to the glow plug system. Or use it as leverage to beat em down on price!!

For info on price I bought mine about 5 months ago for 8,300 with 110,000 miles. Its a CC Dually 2wd and was basically in stock form.

96 F-350 CC Dually My TDG Gallery
B codes, head studs, Comp 910 valve springs, stock turbo w/ 1.00 turbine housing
6.0 IC, NAPA 6637 air filter, AeroTurbine 4040XL, ITP Overboost Annihilator,
Quadzilla Commander, electric fuel system w/ regulated return
coolant filter, 203* thermostat
Dually Club Member #53

346.7HP, 852.1TQ 12/15/07 Greeley, CO w/ stage 1 injectors and Wildman tunes
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-13-2007, 03:38 AM Thread Starter
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well it started about as well as a 2005 powerstroke that was a work truck i drove. but the duramax that i drove it always started right up. so is it that the powerstroke just has to crank a little bit to get started.
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