Homemade OBS fuel system ???'s - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-15-2007, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Homemade OBS fuel system ???'s

Im looking into making my own fuel system for my truck. I was wondering if anyone has made one for their OBS, and what pump they went with. I know someone that has made one for a SD but not an OBS. I realize there isnt much difference, but I just want to get some tips straight from the source......:

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-15-2007, 10:56 PM
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I did the whole thing a few months ago. Check out the link to my gallery in sig. I have a lot of information in the description of each picture.

I went with a stock SD pump. Mainly for cost reasons and because I am not PLANNING on going huge on injectors. Just stage 1's for now.

You could go ahead and do a FASS system and use it for the fuel pump (I think) but that is definitly going the $$$$ route and you will realy only be able to use 1 fuel tank with the FASS.

Here is a link to the thread I posted right after I got it done. There is some info there also.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-15-2007, 11:11 PM
 
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I used a stock SD fuel pump and filter housing with an aeromotive regulator. It worked really well for my truck.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-16-2007, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys...Ive been thinking of going that route. How hard is it to change the filter housing? Is it a pretty straight forward bolt in replacement? Also, racehauler, when you put the SD pump on I saw your filters are down on the frame too. Is the water seperator before the pump and then the secondary after the pump?

'04.5 Chevy 2500HD LLY,Alli, CC, SB, 4x4, Sleeved, Braced, FASS, 4" SS Silverline exh, EGR Blocker, all thanks to MA, EFI Live tuning by me with Edge CTS switching DSP5 tunes, 68mm Danville turbo, ARP Studs with "C" gaskets, Transgo Jr., 20x9 Diamo Karat 8's wrapped in Terra Grapplers, Superlift AAL in rear, Ride Rite Air Bags, some stainless........yeah it shines.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-16-2007, 03:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel dan
Thanks guys...Ive been thinking of going that route. How hard is it to change the filter housing? Is it a pretty straight forward bolt in replacement? Also, racehauler, when you put the SD pump on I saw your filters are down on the frame too. Is the water seperator before the pump and then the secondary after the pump?
Thats correct. I just connected the tank selector to the (rear) filter/water separator, from there to the fuel pump, then to the (front) secondary filter.

Eric
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B codes, head studs, Comp 910 valve springs, stock turbo w/ 1.00 turbine housing
6.0 IC, NAPA 6637 air filter, AeroTurbine 4040XL, ITP Overboost Annihilator,
Quadzilla Commander, electric fuel system w/ regulated return
coolant filter, 203* thermostat
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-16-2007, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel dan
Im looking into making my own fuel system for my truck. I was wondering if anyone has made one for their OBS, and what pump they went with. I know someone that has made one for a SD but not an OBS. I realize there isnt much difference, but I just want to get some tips straight from the source......:

Man, I guess I shoulda' 'bought (2) of everything as I should have expected you were to go down this route sooner or later!!!:


I haven't installed my parts yet, but as far as a pump, I went with a SD.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-17-2007, 04:10 AM
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I recieved a PM from BigRed97 with some OBS fuel system questions and since there has been a big intrest in it lately I replied to it here. My replies are in red.

His questions:

Quote:
I was wondering if you could explain the way your fuel system is set up a little more?(I'm a little confused by it)

So far I understand it goes, from the S/V to the pre filter-seperator, then the SD pump, then the final filter....after that Im confused...in the pics I only see two lines at the regulator....the pass side looks like it goes to the head(correct?)...is the drivers side the supply? or does it go to the other head?
then the return goes from the regulator to the stock return line (correct?)

Fuel routing is as follows: Tank selector valve to pre-filter/water seperator to pump to final filter to rear of both heads. I ran a new 3/8 hose from the final filter to the stock steel lines that connect to the rear of the heads. An adaptor is needed to go from the steel lines to a 3/8 hose barb. It can be made from a #12 37* flare cap (commonly refered to as -12 AN) Drill and tap the #12 cap for 1/4 or 3/8 pipe thread (3/8 will have more threads to seal) and install the correct size hose barb. During and after the process of modifying this fitting keep in mind that the fuel will not be filtered from that point to the injectors so do everything you can to keep things clean. Now the stock banjo bolt needs to be ground or cut off to allow the modified fitting to screw onto it with no threads showing.
See picture.



That is what will feed fuel to the injectors.
Now you must run a fuel line from the front of each head to the new regulator. The fittings in the heads will work fine but an extension on the drivers side will make it more serviceable later. The stock hoses will even work if they are in good condition but they probably need replaced anyway. The two fittings in the heads are #4 37* flare and you can buy a pre made hose here like I did to connect to the regulator. The regulator does not come with fittings. Here is link to a Jegs with a shoping cart with the needed regulator, fittings, and o-rings.
Note: The link to the fittings and regulator has 2 #6 AN to #4 AN adaptors. Put an O-ring on the large side of each fitting and it will seal to the regulator. The flare portion on the large side of these two fittings can be ground off to allow a little better flow into the regulator but it is not 100% necessary. DO NOT grind on the small side of these two fittings, that is what seals the hoses.
See Regulator drawing also.



Now you connect the bottom port of the regulator to the 5/16" steel line in the engine valley (stock return line)

That should complete your system.


What did you do about the stock mech. pump?

Remove it and install a 7/8" soft plug in the hole. A little bit of RTV around the plug to ensure no leaks.

how often to you check for water and replace th filters?

I have only had this system on my truck for about 3 months. I don't drive it much this time of year so I have only checked for water twice. I would guess that the water seperator should be replaced at about the same interval as the stock filter was. The secondary filter can go a minimum of 2x that interval to be safe. It will probably be fine to run more like 10x the interval of the primary but I wouldn't go that long.

Im real sorry about all the questions, but Im leaning towards setting mine up like this....

Don't be sorry about any of the questions. I wouldn't have posted pics or advice if I didn't want to help.

You can see the stock Banjo Bolt, steel fuel lines, and a little bit if the #12 adaptor in this pic.
The clamp that I made is covering most of the adaptor up. To make the clamp I used a piece of 1/8x1 aluminum about 3" long and drilled a hole in it and bent it in a vise so that it will hold pressure on down on the adaptor and fuel lines.


Eric
96 F-350 CC Dually My TDG Gallery
B codes, head studs, Comp 910 valve springs, stock turbo w/ 1.00 turbine housing
6.0 IC, NAPA 6637 air filter, AeroTurbine 4040XL, ITP Overboost Annihilator,
Quadzilla Commander, electric fuel system w/ regulated return
coolant filter, 203* thermostat
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-17-2007, 04:15 AM
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Man you are helping me put this together so much!!! Thanks!!!

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-17-2007, 05:30 AM
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Thought of one more thing. The fuel pumps from parts stores etc. do not have the mounting bracket with them. They are the same as some of the gas vehicles from the similar time frame so you could get it from a salvage yard. I found a new Ford pump part number F81Z-9C407-AC that came with the mount and wiring (wiring is not needed) on ebay. I paid $248 shipped. It isn't the chepest way out but was the easiest for me.

Eric
96 F-350 CC Dually My TDG Gallery
B codes, head studs, Comp 910 valve springs, stock turbo w/ 1.00 turbine housing
6.0 IC, NAPA 6637 air filter, AeroTurbine 4040XL, ITP Overboost Annihilator,
Quadzilla Commander, electric fuel system w/ regulated return
coolant filter, 203* thermostat
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-17-2007, 07:25 AM
 
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Wow, looks like you guys pretty much have it covered.

We used a super duty pump, Aeromotive reg from summit, and pretty much just customized from there.

Had fuel lines made at the local IH dealer and used fittings from there and industrial supply in town.

We used a base with Boss O ring fittings into it and it will accept a Baldwin 1212 spin on filter/seperator or equivalant, filter is only about 8 bucks.

You can also use "Earl's Y block" a splitter available from Summit.

Tom S built a really nice system using a SD pump and a Standyne FM100 prepump.
Stanadyne's "Fuel Manager" FM100 or FM1000 are nice units with a built in heater and thermostat and accept a spin on type filter. Tom modded his to accept a Cat filter seperator and is running a 150mic prepump, and a 2 post I believe.

What I plan to do with mine is, Stock pump with lifter "helper" pump, or two SD pumps if I need it, probably not with my injectors though. A Stanadyne or Dahl (really nice too, can get heated version, and comes with the clear bowl on bottom) pre pump unit. And a simple spin on for the main filter, probably 2 micron. That with aeroquip hoses, y block, fittings, and Aeromotive reg from Summit should do the trick.
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