NBS 7.3 inplace of an OBS 7.3 - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-20-2007, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
 
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NBS 7.3 inplace of an OBS 7.3

Hey Guys,

lately ive been dumping a lot of money into 180,000 mile low compression,insanly white smokin when cold , and no constant heat in cab for a couple of months now, She still runs good when warm however i pulled a code saying that the Cam sensor was bad so i replaced it, but that did nothing, i think it has somthing to do with low oil presure, Anyways i am smoke highly considering a motor swap fairly soon.

I was wondering if anyone had any info on replacing my first generation motor with the 99-03 2nd generation motor, Beings my truck is a standard cab long box I know how bad *** and unique it would be

Thanks
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-20-2007, 08:04 PM
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I have a hard time believing that motor is wore out. Mine has 166k, and there is no way that Im worried about the life of it. IMO, I would fix what you have. Right off the bat it sounds like you are do for a thermostat. I just replaced mine when I installed my injectors a month ago for those very same symptoms. Heats up great now, and runs a lot smoother. You could get a newer motor but you arent gaining a whole lot, then if you got a 01-03 you are looking at PMR's....you dont want those.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-20-2007, 08:08 PM
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at 180k it shouldnt be worn out yet ...
the white smoke when cold is this just after start up or for several minutes until it fully warms up? does it start hard when cold?...
this can be a glow plug issue worn out injectors or low fuel pressure concerns

a high blow by low compression engine would tend to smoke blue from burning oil coming past rings and guides

no heat in the cab isnt for sure an engine issue but it could be a bad t stat .

as for the swap you have in mind the basic engines are identical the only differences are in emc programming some sensors and the injectors and turbo plus the cac so its not truely some radical install... no offense.

In my opinion you are better off solving the issues with the engine in the truck will be more cost effective

Doc
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-20-2007, 08:23 PM
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I agree with dan and doc 180000 that engine shouldn't have hurt thet engine at all unless it has been abused. I have 210,000 on mine and still going strong. If you are still getting a cam code I have had to repace the the connector that plugs into the sensor on a couple of trucks because of a bad connection. I am not sure if ford sells it but, International has a pigtail connector that you can sodder rite it to repace it.The white smoke could be caused by several things, air in fuel, high pressure oil problem, injectors, low compression,as well as couple more im sure. I would at least run a compression test to make sure that is the problem first, before you condem that engine.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-20-2007, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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i totally hear you guys, how ever in regards to the heat problem ive done a new thermostat, new radiator, Chlutch fan, heater core, what will happen is temp guage will get really hot, than it will drop like the thermostat is opening then i will get warm air it will do this twice under constant throtle then stop

Ive done a compression check good compression = 420 the two lowest cylinders are sitting at 330 and 360 the rest are between 390-400

White smoke: it smells like unburned fuel which would be injectors, it smokes for 20 minutes at 35 degrees i have replaced G- plugs about 2000 miles ago

Cam sensor: this problem just occured on thursday even with a new sensor it doesnt show any codes but it still acts like it the truck will run but after you hit the throttle it will die.

shortly ill be posting picks of the truck which you guys will probably like new paint Cowl hood 35's welds, Fender flares, it looks tough

Thanks alot guys
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-20-2007, 10:40 PM
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on the poor running I would be looking at fuel supply issues such as sucking air restrictions bad regulator or a bad lift pump check fuel pressure should be at least 45 psi.

on the temp you are saying engine temp drops to low or is goes high drops to normal and then you still dont get heat ?? if thats the case i would look into dash vent issues its not uncommen for the air doors in the heater box to either break and not fully close or a vacume issue into the dash can cause door working issues .. either way I dont think a new engine will cure your heat issue

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-21-2007, 05:13 AM
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on the heat issue. It kind of sounds like you have air trapped in the cooling system. is it possible the hose that comes off the coolent reservore is stopped up or pinched off. were it is full of coolent but the block and radiator is half empty. I have seen this happen on bigger trucks before and have the same kind of symptoms. however when you changed your thermostat you should of had trouble getting water back into it.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-21-2007, 06:09 AM
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^^^^^ what he said, try this.... when the motor is cold take the cap iff the radiator and start the truck let it run with the cap off, as the coolant bubbles down keep topping it off, when she start to boil or rise up and pour back out put the cap on and stop the motor, let it cool and open the cap and top it off again, you may want to do this twice, that should get the air out
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