Battery Cables Question - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
Thread Details Posted by Yankee Rebel, this thread has received 12 replies and been viewed 1136 times.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-25-2007, 02:41 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 32
Points: 371
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Battery Cables Question

I own a 95 F-350 7.3 PSD,the batteries are going south on me so before they toast the starter I want to change them out.My question has to do with the stock cables that are in the truck.The terminals are corroded so bad I'm sure I'll have to replace them.I know Ford will want my first born for new cables so to keep from trading in my 16 yr old son on a new set of battery cables what do you guys suggest.I know there are some ideas out there because from what I've seen there is a bunch of "been there,done that" on here. Thanks for the help and "keep on strokin' ".Thanks, Yankee Rebel:feedback
Yankee Rebel is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-25-2007, 02:43 AM
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 274
Points: 1,614
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
COCA= COLA pour it on the acid all gone, then spray with teminal protector available at napa and those places
powrstrkn' is offline  
post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-25-2007, 03:30 AM Thread Starter
Threadstarter
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 32
Points: 371
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the fast response,but the problem is that the batteries need to be changed and the cables are corroded and I'm sure they will not tighten up correctly to the new batteries.The previous owner must have had trouble because it looks as though a tool was used to brad the terminals to the cables.Kinda hard to explain what has been done,point being,to make sure I have a good connection on my new batteries I thought someone would have an idea to fashion homemade cables instead of the Ford cable.I will go to Ford in the AM and see how much they want,sometimes I guess you just bite the bullet.I don't use the truck every day,so I have time to explore all options.Thanx, Yankee Rebel.
Yankee Rebel is offline  
post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-25-2007, 03:52 AM
Senior Member
 
plainredtruck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Hickory Tavern, SC
Posts: 4,090
Points: 30,113
Thanks: 275
Thanked 444 Times in 285 Posts
Images: 11
I wouldn't go to the dealer for battery cables.

Check your local electrical supply house and get some equivalent sized cable and connectors.

prt

'99 F250 X-cab 2wd

powered by DP-Tuner

My Photography addiction


Mafia # 27






plainredtruck is offline  
post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-25-2007, 03:57 AM
Senior Member
 
moose99psd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: bend oregon
Posts: 2,334
Points: 43,453
Thanks: 16
Thanked 24 Times in 14 Posts
Send a message via AIM to moose99psd
im with ray on this one... go down to napa or whoever and get yourself some red and black cable by the foot and make em yourself.. get some solder on terminals with some heat shrink tubing and voila ur done.. and make sure u pure solder and not the stuff with rosin core.. ask them for the solder used with wires its diffrent from the stuff for plumbing iirc
moose99psd is offline  
post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-25-2007, 04:06 AM
4cstr
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Points: 0 [Check]
I agree with them also. Go to Napa, hell, I've seen them at Walmart. Just replace the cables yourself. You might need to splice the new ones in, but Napa or a good auto parts store should carry what you need.

And a simple little trick. Once done, get the vaseline out and coat the posts and terminals. It also keeps corrison away and doesn't impede any current.
post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-25-2007, 04:12 AM
Senior Member
 
pontiacross's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Mexico, MO
Posts: 2,509
Points: 50,559
Thanks: 145
Thanked 82 Times in 79 Posts
I always thought rosin core soder was ok, and acid core soder is what you wanted to stay away from because it causes future corosion. I could be wrong but I never got along very well geting solid core to stick to anything.

Ross
Show-ME Smokers 2.6 modified street pulling truck "The Lone Stroke" My Videos
1996 f350, powerstroke, 4x4, 5-speed, 4.56 gears, Swamps 450/600 injectors, Swamps BFH turbo, Swamps Idm, Swamps tunes, BTS oil, SBC clutch, studs, springs, tubes, air to water intercooler, fuel system, factory rods!


Tow Rig
1997 f350, srw, reg cab, 4x4, 5 speed, 4.10 gears, 3in down pipe, straight pipe, mystery chip.

Becker Brothers Enterprises
pontiacross is offline  
post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-25-2007, 09:02 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 26
Points: 314
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Double post deleted..sorry, read on.
Blown306 is offline  
post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-25-2007, 09:08 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 26
Points: 314
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Correct...you need some kind of rosin to allow the solder to stick properly. In a previous life I used to be in the battery business (motive power, i.e. forklift). I delt with high current DC battery and charger repair and made all of my own cables for batteries and chargers. I used to use 100% lead and rosin paste. I think the point being made was don't use the stuff with the rosin built into the solder. There's not enough rosin when doing stranded wire. Ace Hardware used to sell 100% pure lead sticks, but for what you are doing, the lead/tin combo stuff will work fine. Do not crimp high currect DC connections, especially when dealing with batteries. The exposed copper in crimped connections usually corrode faster. This is a big factor with forklift batteries, because of the heavy gassing, vented caps and high currents. Automotive applications are not as bad because the batteries are pretty much always fully charged and don't gas as much, but I always prefer soldered over crimped anyway.

Also, use propane, mapp, oxy/propane or oxy/NG for gas. Do not use oxy/acetylene, it will contaminate the lead. As far as cable, I used to use 600V welding cable. It's oil/gas/chem resistant, very flexible and available in sizes from pretty much #2 to 4/0 in red or black, although most electrical supply houses only have black. I would use black and red electrical tape to seal up the connection...shrink wrap works too, and is a little better. The best stuff is the shrink wrap with the gel inside that melts and makes it watertight, but it's not necessary.
Blown306 is offline  
post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-26-2007, 10:13 PM
The Oracle
 
BigRed97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 343
Points: 21,318
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Send a message via AIM to BigRed97
if you are looking to save $ just put new ends on the stock cables....easy and cheap....

e99 leveled on 35s
250/80, modded s300, studs, springs, push rods, adrenaline, swamps tuning, racerx trans
BigRed97 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome