95 has intermittent CEL and runs rough - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 03:23 AM Thread Starter
 
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95 has intermittent CEL and runs rough

Ok I was going to wait till I get it scanned before I post a thread. But mentioned my problem in another thread and got some help from LocoMotion. So I decided to make my own thread instead of hi-jacking the other one.

So I have a 95 F250 auto. Recently the check engine light will come on and it will run very rough like it is missing or running on about 3cyl. Then all of a sudden the light will go off and it will run fine. This kept happening on and off till the last time I drove it the problem stayed and quite "fixing itself". Now it won't start, fires alittle but won't start. I know that you guys can't help much with out a code but I can't get it scanned till Friday (hopefully).
Anyway LocoMotion mentioned the UVC harness. I did some searching and it sounds like it could be the problem. So where is the best place to get these? Any other parts besides the harness? how much do they cost? how hard is the job?

Oh and any other opinions on the problem are welcome.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 06:16 AM
 
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Scotty,
UVC is the valve cover gasket w/harness. VC gasket comes with a new harness. Look for melted wiring at the connector. International will be cheaper than Ford if you need the UVC.

I'm not sure if you can buy the harness seperate from the gasket. Every one I have replaced needed both. The gasket has been redesigned to prevent future melt downs.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 11:50 AM
 
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It's my understanding that the part that plugs into the injectors (we'll call it the "harness") is the part that has been updated to lock into the other part (call it the "gasket") and prevent it from shorting out.

Mine has done this twice and each time it was just a loose connection. First time I rigged it, second time I replaced the "harness" and it has been fine since.

As RacerX mentioned though, sometimes the bad connection causes damage to BOTH parts making it necessary to replace them.

At any rate, try to get your parts from an International dealer if possible, or if you can wait you can go thru powerstrokeshop.com I say this because if you go to Ford, prepare to be raped.

The "harness" part I had to buy was $18 from International. Guess how much from Ford...
$96 !!!

The "gasket" part of the deal should be around 30 bucks as well, so less than 100 in parts even if you need all of it, provided you get a fair deal.

My symptoms were exactly like yours, it would fix itself for a day or two, then one day it died and would NOT start back. Finally got it started and it had no power and ran like poo because it was only running on one bank.
The OBS connectors are split into 2's, so you only lose 2 at a time normally if it's the "harness".
Your situation sounds like it may be the "gasket" part as RacerX mentioned, and that's why it won't start, only one bank trying to light.

HTH
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys.

If I go to a International dealer, can they look up my engine or do I need to tell them a different engine?
From what I have seen around the internet the OBS's are more expensive then the newer ones. I have found the harness for $50 each, and I need 4....ouch. and the gasket I think was like $90, seems kinda expensive to me. I hope International will be cheaper.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 05:17 PM
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at navistar tell them its a t444e older style with 2 plugs per gasket .. or if I get a chance before I get home I can get part numbers and a rough price and post it when I get home . I say rough price because it will vary from location to location

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 07:54 PM
 
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It's the resistance in the circuit that causes overheat and melt down. Maybe due to corrosion forming in the UVC plug in. I pack all the under hood connections with silicone di grease. Works well for protecting the connections.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 08:02 PM
 
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Very good idea Racer X.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again guys.

Too bad I can't even look at it till Friday. I called the local International dealer and they have the harness for $35 and the gasket for $57. Not too bad i guess.

Ok so given this is my problem.
Do I replace all the harnesses or just the bad ones? maybe just one side?
Do I have to replace the gasket if they look fine and aren't melted?
would it be wise to replace glow plugs while I am in there, or is it a waist of money if they are still good? It has 312K and I don't know any history on it. How do i test them? Do they need to be with in a certain resistance (thats how my car is)?

-Scott
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 09:22 PM
 
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Resistance on the glow plugs should be 0.6-2 ohms.

With those miles I would replace them since you're going to be there anyways.

****WORD OF CAUTION*** DO NOT USE AUTOLITE GLOW PLUGS.

You want either Motorcraft or BERU, the autolites break off.

As far as the other parts, just get it torn apart and only replace what is damaged. Make sure every other connection is solid and clean it up and coat with some dielectric as RacerX mentioned.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-21-2007, 01:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyB
the check engine light will come on and it will run very rough like it is missing or running on about 3cyl. Then all of a sudden the light will go off and it will run fine. This kept happening on and off till the last time I drove it the problem stayed and quite "fixing itself". Now it won't start, fires alittle but won't start.

Oh and any other opinions on the problem are welcome.
I suspect the cam position sensor. They can cause intermitant problems like that. Missing/no start conditions.

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