Stock turbo gone!!!!!!! HELP - Diesel Truck Forum -
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
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Stock turbo gone!!!!!!! HELP

My stock turbo went bang today and I was wondering if there was a writeup to help with changing to the BB Garrett???? Can anybody help me out?!?!?!?!?!!?!?!?! PLEASE
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 06:05 AM
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not sure if there is a right up but the garrett BB is a direct replacement for 99.5-03 trucks, i changed my turbo in the parking lot at work in between customers and still got it done in under 5 hrs, its pretty easy to do. just make sure u get new pedestal O rings, PB blast the downpipe v clamp and the turbo V clamp ahead of time.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 06:22 AM Thread Starter
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I have to go and get the tools from my toolbox which is at my moms house about an hour away. What tools will I need exactly ie: what size sockets, deep well, how many extensions, any tricks other than pb blaster??
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 06:24 AM
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i kind of wish my turbo would take a crap so i would have an excuse to buy a turbo.:evil:

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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Just put some stage 2's in it and push the boost over 30 lbs and it'll do it believe me.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 07:47 AM
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Here's a write up on changing your pedestal O rings. You need to do that as well when you change the turbo, so just follow these instructions and use the new turbo when you put it all back together.

Turbo Pedestal O-ring R&R for Ford Powerstroke 99-2003 7.3L Diesel

So you made sure it was the O-rings under turbo and not the HPOP lines? Not surprising, the turbo O-rings are a common leak.

I would get the yellow (Viton) O-rings. The new O-rings are more resistant to distortion/cracking and are more resilient to high-heat applications.

Before you start:
Remove the batt cables, you'll be playing with wires later that don't need to be arced out.
Soak Downpipe clamp with PB Blaster or similar penetrating lube, get not only the bolt, but all contact surfaces on turbo and exhaust side of clamp.
Soak 'Blind' Clamp on BACK of turbo with penetrating lube, it may be hard to get to, but as much lube as possible will help out later.

1)Remove air intake, all hoses including the one connected to the turbo. If you are leaving the CCV in tact, you can just swivel the air hose at the turbo around to get it off. 5/16" nutdriver or socket. Be careful with the red wastegate hose attached to the rubber hose @ turbo.

2) Remove Intercooler pipes. This is a good time to inspect and clean them to ensure against boost leaks. 7/16"s wrench IIRC. Take boots loose and remove tubes completely. *REMEMBER* to keep track of how the clamps came off so you don't get them mixed up, very frustrating.
This is also a good time to do the AIH delete if you are considering it.

4) Remove Wires to Air Intake Heater, and 10mm bolt holding vacume block to Y-pipe. Remove Y-pipe, to do this you will need to loosen the large hose-style clamp and loosen the hose clamps on the ORANGE intake boots under the Y-pipe. There is an O-ring where the turbo meets the Y-pipe, don't lose it.

5) Remove Orange intake boots and clean them, they are usually the culprits for leaking and losing boost. Now is also a good time to remove the clip holding the EBPV actuator rod to the EBPV stud. You will have to reach underneath the turbo to do so. The EBPV rod runs out of the side of the turbo pedestal, toward the pass side fender, and to the underside of the turbine housing on the turbo. Don't skip this step or you could cause damage to the seal of the EBPV rod and cause it to leak oil, as well as making it harder to remove turbo from pedestal.

6) Loosen and Remove the DownPipe Clamp, it will be easier if you have soaked it down with PB Blaster or some similar penetrating lube. Ensure now that downpipe is free from turbo. 7/16" wrench/socket IIRC

7) Loosen 'Blind' Clamp behind the turbo. It is easiest to get a very long arrangement of extensions, fish your extensions and (7/16"s socket IIRC) around behind turbo, then stand at front-driver's side of truck or by driver's side fender to loosen. I would take clamp nut ALL the way off, so you know it isn't fouling you up later.
Important Step

8) You're almost ready to take the turbo off, here's where some improvisation comes in handy. Take the (2) bolts out of the TOP of the turbo, running down through the pedestal, and you will be ready to pull the turbo. Take these bolts completely out. (13mm Socket IIRC).
You may not have gotten the blind clamp completely loose in the last step, don't worry. However, it is VERY important NOT to loosen the up-pipe bolts. There is no need to loosen these and doing so can cause issues later with sealing exhaust leaks and such. There is no need to loosen these bolts, the blind clamp is the only thing securing the turbo at this point.
Removing turbo continued

9) Try wiggling the turbo around now and see if it is fairly loose. You will have to lift it as it sets on a collar for the Oil return passage. If the blind clamp in the back is loose, the turbo should come out fairly easy, if not, some wriggling and twisting should loosen it enough to allow the turbo to come off the pedestal. You may have to use a pry bar, just be as easy as possible getting it to come loose and take your time, double check noting is holding it from coming loose, bolts not loosened etc.

10) When turbo comes loose from the pedestal and blind clamp, you can fish it out slowly and set it on the work bench.

11) With the turbo off, you should now be able to see the O-rings on the top side of the pedestal. If you are changing the O-rings top and bottom, which I would if you have a leak, you will need to remove the pedestal itself. There is a bolt in each corner that should be removed and the pedestal should come out.

12) Now you are ready to clean up the O-ring seat surfaces and install them. Install the ones below the pedestal first, coat them in a light film of oil, vaseline, or grease just to help hold them in place and help prevent tearing, then reinstall pedestal onto engine.
Now install the O-rings on the top side of the pedestal.
Reinstall of turbo

13) It is very important not to disturb the seat of the O-rings when reseating turbo onto the pedestal. That is why some grease on the O-rings is a good idea to help hold them in place. I have also found it handy to have a friend watch from a ways back with a flash light as you slowly lower the turbo onto the pedestal, to ensure that the O-rings have not moved.
Be sure to check your manual or ask a fellow TDG member what the torque spec is for the turbo retaining bolts. I tightened them up 'very snug' but it is always better to use a torque wrench where specs are applicable.

14) Now you can reinstall all other associated hardware and congradulate yourself on a job well done. If all procedures are followed, you should've fixed your leak for a long time to come.

Tip added from mad_matt: When reinstalling the Turbo Exhaust Collector and Downpipe clamps, use some anti-seize on them to prevent sticking. This will make it much easier to remove and reinstall them in the future if need be.
Matt recommends the Silver anti sieze compound available at Napa, it has a much higher heat stability than the copper compound. The silver stuff is good to 1900 where the copper is good only to around 1200 which could result in a copper-welded seal on the clamps if temps exceed 1200.
Thanks Matt!
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 04:19 PM
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Check this out. This should help. Just make sure you have all your metric and standard tools. The hardest part is installing the up pipe on the back of the turbo. It is really not too bad of a job.

good luck,

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2007, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everybody for the help. I'm about to start. I will post results when I'm finished. Again thanks for the help.
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