Injector removal and install on a 99 SD - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-14-2007, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Injector removal and install on a 99 SD

I am going to remove my injectors and install the new, I could use any info and tricks or tips...........:Thumbup: :thanks:

1999 F-350 7.3L CREW CAB DUALLY, LIVE TUNING BY DP TUNER, 180cc SINGLES, REGULATED RETURN FUEL SYSTEM, PRE-PUMP AND IN TANK FUEL SYSTEM AND OVER BOOST ANNIHILATOR BY ITP DIESEL, DR MINI PACKS TO LEVEL THE RIDE, 6" AUSSIE STACKS BY GRANDROCK, AFE STAGE II INTAKE, TURBO MODS BY HTT, 05 HEAD LIGHT CONVERSION WITH UPGRADE WIRING HARNESS BY DFUSER, 05 GRILL, 05 6 SPEED UPGRADE, SHORT THROW SHIFTER AND LUK CLUTCH BY MIDWEST TRANSMISSION , CCV MOD, LINE-X , QUAD POD FILLED WITH AUTO METER C2 GUAGES, CUSTOM SLED PULLING HITCH, COOLANT FILTER SETUP
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post #2 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-15-2007, 08:34 AM
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Make sure you pull the plugs for the oil rails under the valve covers. They take a 1/8" alen wrench to get out. Get something to suck all the oil out of the cylenders so you don't hydrolock it. After you get the injectors back in leave the forward most oil rail plug out and start cranking. Crank for 30 seconds or so at a time and let it sit for a bit. I like to assemble some, crank some assemble some more etc. When you see oil start comming out the plug hole stick the plug back in. Usually if you crank 3 or 4 times for 30 seconds or so at a time it will fire right up when you try to start it. I usually just jump the starter relay with the key off that way it's not trying to fire when I'm doing my cycles. Don't use a hammer to install the injectors. Lube the o-rings up real good and they should slide in. The last little bit they go in kind of hard so if you can't get them in all the way by hand hook the hold down over the bolt that you leave in and use it as a lever to push the injector the rest of the way in. Something thick and slik like STP oil treatment seems to work best for installing them. I usually use syncut which is a seal lubricant that Stanadyne makes but the only place I know of to get it is a fuel shop that deals with Stanadyne stuff so it might be kind of hard to find if you don't have a fuel shop close by.

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post #3 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-16-2007, 03:16 AM Thread Starter
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Should I pull them all and then install the new ones or install one at a time as I pull the old ones?

1999 F-350 7.3L CREW CAB DUALLY, LIVE TUNING BY DP TUNER, 180cc SINGLES, REGULATED RETURN FUEL SYSTEM, PRE-PUMP AND IN TANK FUEL SYSTEM AND OVER BOOST ANNIHILATOR BY ITP DIESEL, DR MINI PACKS TO LEVEL THE RIDE, 6" AUSSIE STACKS BY GRANDROCK, AFE STAGE II INTAKE, TURBO MODS BY HTT, 05 HEAD LIGHT CONVERSION WITH UPGRADE WIRING HARNESS BY DFUSER, 05 GRILL, 05 6 SPEED UPGRADE, SHORT THROW SHIFTER AND LUK CLUTCH BY MIDWEST TRANSMISSION , CCV MOD, LINE-X , QUAD POD FILLED WITH AUTO METER C2 GUAGES, CUSTOM SLED PULLING HITCH, COOLANT FILTER SETUP
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post #4 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-16-2007, 06:12 PM
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Doesn't really matter. If you pull the back two first being that is the lowest point (unless you have the truck pointing down a hill when you pull them) most of the fuel and oil will go in those holes.

'96 F-250 Extended Cab, GT'S injectors, GT'S intercooler install kit, custom turbo kit with a little HX40, Swamp's BIGEST oil.
466 on #2 only
739 with NČO

13.544 in 1/4 mi!

"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." Henry Ford

Yeah I can keep up!:Thumbup:
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post #5 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-16-2007, 06:16 PM
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What I do is one bank at a time. Start the truck up after you have done one bank and than move to the other side. If you do both at the same it can take a real long time to get the air out of the oil and start the truck.

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post #6 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-16-2007, 07:08 PM
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Just do them all at the same time... Here are some of the best directions I have used... Geoff likes to do it by the book but if you just remove the back two injectors first, everything will drain back to there. Then remove all the GP's and turn over a few times by hand... Then install injectors and turn over again with the starter... Bump it... bump it... bump it... (make sure to stick the VC over the valves with a bolt or two... or oiley mess)...

Read here...http://www.beansdieselperformance.co...torinstall.htm

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post #7 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-16-2007, 07:26 PM
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Yeah if you crank it with the glow plugs out and put a valve cover on it make sure to put a couple bolts in it. That stuff comes shooting out of there hard! It will blow a valve cover right off and make one hell of a mess if there is much oil in the cylender and you just let 'er crank!

'96 F-250 Extended Cab, GT'S injectors, GT'S intercooler install kit, custom turbo kit with a little HX40, Swamp's BIGEST oil.
466 on #2 only
739 with NČO

13.544 in 1/4 mi!

"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." Henry Ford

Yeah I can keep up!:Thumbup:
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post #8 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-16-2007, 07:35 PM
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I have the stains on the roof of my shop to prove it...

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post #9 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-16-2007, 09:36 PM
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I am a big fan of removing one and in the same breath installing the new one. That way not as much fuel and oil leak into the motor. Plus I had no air in the lines after we did mine. Then just work your way around.

Make sure you get that fuel line to help take out the glow plugs... that deep socket tends to get stuck in there.

I think we cranked the motor over 8-10 times by hand and then did it a few times with the key...before the glow plugs were reinstalled. Gets everything out of the system..

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post #10 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-17-2007, 03:54 AM Thread Starter
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What size fuel line.........

1999 F-350 7.3L CREW CAB DUALLY, LIVE TUNING BY DP TUNER, 180cc SINGLES, REGULATED RETURN FUEL SYSTEM, PRE-PUMP AND IN TANK FUEL SYSTEM AND OVER BOOST ANNIHILATOR BY ITP DIESEL, DR MINI PACKS TO LEVEL THE RIDE, 6" AUSSIE STACKS BY GRANDROCK, AFE STAGE II INTAKE, TURBO MODS BY HTT, 05 HEAD LIGHT CONVERSION WITH UPGRADE WIRING HARNESS BY DFUSER, 05 GRILL, 05 6 SPEED UPGRADE, SHORT THROW SHIFTER AND LUK CLUTCH BY MIDWEST TRANSMISSION , CCV MOD, LINE-X , QUAD POD FILLED WITH AUTO METER C2 GUAGES, CUSTOM SLED PULLING HITCH, COOLANT FILTER SETUP
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