Join Date: May 2005
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Make sure you pull the plugs for the oil rails under the valve covers. They take a 1/8" alen wrench to get out. Get something to suck all the oil out of the cylenders so you don't hydrolock it. After you get the injectors back in leave the forward most oil rail plug out and start cranking. Crank for 30 seconds or so at a time and let it sit for a bit. I like to assemble some, crank some assemble some more etc. When you see oil start comming out the plug hole stick the plug back in. Usually if you crank 3 or 4 times for 30 seconds or so at a time it will fire right up when you try to start it. I usually just jump the starter relay with the key off that way it's not trying to fire when I'm doing my cycles. Don't use a hammer to install the injectors. Lube the o-rings up real good and they should slide in. The last little bit they go in kind of hard so if you can't get them in all the way by hand hook the hold down over the bolt that you leave in and use it as a lever to push the injector the rest of the way in. Something thick and slik like STP oil treatment seems to work best for installing them. I usually use syncut which is a seal lubricant that Stanadyne makes but the only place I know of to get it is a fuel shop that deals with Stanadyne stuff so it might be kind of hard to find if you don't have a fuel shop close by.
'96 F-250 Extended Cab, GT'S injectors, GT'S intercooler install kit, custom turbo kit with a little HX40, Swamp's BIGEST oil.
466 on #2 only
739 with NČO
13.544 in 1/4 mi!
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." Henry Ford
Yeah I can keep up!:Thumbup: