Ebpv ? - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-15-2007, 05:08 AM Thread Starter
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Ebpv ?

should the EBPV rod move fairly easy when truck is off. i couldn't get it to move by hand or hand tools.

97 F-250 7.3 psd 4x4: homemade Intake, fpr mod, IDM mod, 18k mod, HX mod, a pillar w/ 3 autometer gauges, 3" downpipe, minus muffler and cat.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-17-2007, 06:00 PM
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Hmmmmmmmmm, maybe your boost problem?

Don't know why I missed this thread earlier but I would say your EBPV is stuck closed. Unhook the rod from the EBPV lever and see if you can get it to move then.

Edit: I saw you asked about gutting the EBPV. I would reccomend it.

Eric
96 F-350 CC Dually My TDG Gallery
B codes, head studs, Comp 910 valve springs, stock turbo w/ 1.00 turbine housing
6.0 IC, NAPA 6637 air filter, AeroTurbine 4040XL, ITP Overboost Annihilator,
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-18-2007, 05:02 AM Thread Starter
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what about cold weather?

97 F-250 7.3 psd 4x4: homemade Intake, fpr mod, IDM mod, 18k mod, HX mod, a pillar w/ 3 autometer gauges, 3" downpipe, minus muffler and cat.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-18-2007, 05:19 AM
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I live in the Salt Lake area and it can get cooooolllllllddddd here. I worried about the affects gutting the EBPV would have on cold days as well. I ended up gutting my 96 and didn't miss it for a second! I say go for it, you will be glad you did. I've heard it opens up the air flow around 20% as well.

1999.5 PSD, 4x4, Auto trans, 6.0 Trans cooler, ZooDad Mod, ISSPRO Trans - boost - EGT gauges, Wicked Wheel, 5inch Stainless tip, 315 75 17 BFG AT's, ProComp 9000's at the corners, Fumatomo Valve, Pooned tank, DP Tuner F5 w/ 80 tow, 80 econo, 120 race and permagrin!
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-18-2007, 05:30 AM
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I was wondering ebpv? what does gutting it do and how hard is it? Kinda new to the diesel

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96 F-350 Regular cab: 5" to 6" exhaust. autometer Z series a pillar pod for gauges. Window tint.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-18-2007, 05:50 AM
 
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i was wondering the same thing
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-18-2007, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
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Exhaust backpressure valve. Not exactly sure on how to do it. might have to pull the turbo. Someone will chime in.

97 F-250 7.3 psd 4x4: homemade Intake, fpr mod, IDM mod, 18k mod, HX mod, a pillar w/ 3 autometer gauges, 3" downpipe, minus muffler and cat.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-18-2007, 02:34 PM
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o ok, what will gutting it do. make more hp more smoke?

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96 F-350 Regular cab: 5" to 6" exhaust. autometer Z series a pillar pod for gauges. Window tint.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-18-2007, 03:50 PM
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Mine was done with the turbo off the engine. You won't get any seat of the pants feel of more power by doing this mod. You just don't have the EBPV closing up on you when you don't want it to. As I stated above (Worded wrong) you will get about 20% less air flow restriction.
The EBPV can be usefull. Some guys have turned them into engine breaks. If you pull alot, I would leave it in and use it to your advantage. I didn't pull that often so I had mine gutted while the turbo was out for other work.

1999.5 PSD, 4x4, Auto trans, 6.0 Trans cooler, ZooDad Mod, ISSPRO Trans - boost - EGT gauges, Wicked Wheel, 5inch Stainless tip, 315 75 17 BFG AT's, ProComp 9000's at the corners, Fumatomo Valve, Pooned tank, DP Tuner F5 w/ 80 tow, 80 econo, 120 race and permagrin!
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-18-2007, 04:26 PM
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The purpose of the EBPV is to keep the exhaust heat in the engine and aid in warming the engine up in cold temps. I don't drive my truck all that much in cold temps and didn't like it closing while I was driving down the road so I just removed it. I also didn't see myself using it as an exhaust brake so that was another reason for removing.

To gut it you can remove the EBPV housing (where the down pipe connects). It has 3 bolts holding it on (on the OBS trucks anyway). I had my turbo out when I gutted mine so it was much easier to get to those bolts. Then take a torch and cut the head of the rivets off of the valve. You can then remove the main plate. Getting the rod out that goes top to bottom may be a challange. I cut it apart with the torch and punched both sides in toward the center to remove it. You will then have to close off at least the bottom hole where the EBPV lever was hooked to it. I used a steel soft plug (freeze plug) to cap it off, 7/8" if I remember correctly.

Then you have to deal with the rod that comes out of the pedestal. I just took a piece of fuel line and hose clamped it on to the rod up against the pedestal so that it would stay tight against the internal spring and centered in the hole.

Eric
96 F-350 CC Dually My TDG Gallery
B codes, head studs, Comp 910 valve springs, stock turbo w/ 1.00 turbine housing
6.0 IC, NAPA 6637 air filter, AeroTurbine 4040XL, ITP Overboost Annihilator,
Quadzilla Commander, electric fuel system w/ regulated return
coolant filter, 203* thermostat
Dually Club Member #53

346.7HP, 852.1TQ 12/15/07 Greeley, CO w/ stage 1 injectors and Wildman tunes
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