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Starting issues. AGAIN

2K views 9 replies 4 participants last post by  weareweird69 
#1 · (Edited)
Seems I cant win with my truck. :eek:wned

First off, Truck is a 95 PSD.

Last year, I replaced the GPR with a Napa 109 model, for the older 7.3's and the year before, with a Ford OEM GPR, along with new OEM ZD-11 glowplugs.

It was 45*F this morning, and I use my remote starter to start my truck usually, before I head outside, so it can warm up.

Have a timer set for 30 seconds of GP heating, just to be sure. And recently, its been getting worse and worse for starting, and it took two tries for the remote start to start my truck today. and usually starts with a huge cloud of white smoke, which points to a GP problem.

If I let it sit for a day, forget it, cycle the plugs a few times, and it might start the first try.

The Battery guage in the truck dies when I turn the key on, like usual, and it seems like the GPR is working, but its not starting like its working.

Rundown:
3 year old HPOP
2 NEW Batteries
2 year old OEM GP's
1 year old Napa GPR
Just changed the oil yesterday
Lots of white smoke on start up
UVCH's are in good shape

FUEL BOWL HEATER is UNPLUGGED, it shorted out on me.

Now, I put a meter on the GPR, Hot side had 12V, turned on the key, and it dropped to under a volt. And stayed around there, jumping around a little, until the GPR shut off, and I watched the voltage climb back up to Batt. Voltage.

I Dont recall it making the "relay click" noise. And no matter what, the Hot side of the GPR is always black, stud, nut and all. I assume from heat? The cables are all in good condition though.

Is the GPR on the way out?

And if so, I am going to put a Stancor in it, but should I get the 12V or the 15V? I am tired of eating GPR's, and am hoping this solves my problem...

I heard someone say the 15V is better, because it can handle the charging load from the battery/alternator.

Any help? :happymugs
 
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#2 · (Edited)
So with the meter on the LARGE B+ terminal, you had ~12v then when the GP relay came on, you lost it - it went down below 9v???

You my friend, have a SERIOUS wiring problem. It could be the power cable to the GPR or even the ground from the block to the batteries, that's a common one.
 
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#3 ·
:thinking
I'd have to agree with John. Check all your battery connections, also look real good at the electrical connector on the feed wire to the GPR, if it got hot it has a poor connection between the wire and connector itself. You'll need to cut the wire and install a new connector. I prefer to solder these connectors on and then crimp them with a center punch to ensure solid contact. The biggest key is to have the wire clean clean clean before you install the new connector.
 
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#4 ·
The connections on the battery are good. I just gave them a bath not long ago because they keep corroding.

And, is the ground from the block attached on the passenger side front? And where does it go after? I may have new Battery cables made, or buy news ones. I know Cables are problems with his generation Ford.

Ill clean up the terminal on the Hot side of the GPR, and re attach it.

I will also Re-meter the GPR today, I was doing it myself yesterday, and could have gotten a funky response.
 
#5 ·
The main B+ connector on the Pass side battery seems to be the biggest problem spot. The bolt loosens up and you don't get a good connection although when you measure voltage AT the clamp it cchecks ok, the voltage in the cable is low.

I have drilled that connector and installed a bolt that goes completely thru it then refastened the B+ cable that runs over to the Driver's side battery from there.

As I recall, the main ground is on the Pass lower side, it should tie to both the frame and then the Pass B- post (if memory serves me).
 
#6 ·
Ill check the ground this week when its not cold and rainy.

I too have bolts on my terminals, I got tired of dealing with the corrosion and old bolts, so its got the bolts now on both sides.

I just re-metered the GPR.

It is cold, so I had lots of time to play with it, had my mom (haha) sit in the truck and run the key for me.

Had ~12V at the battery, and ~12V at the B+ side of the GPR. Turned on the key, it dropped .20V and had ~10V on the other side of the GPR. HOWEVER the GPR didnt turn ON for the first two trys with this. And turned on for the third key on try, and thats when I got the 10V.

The two smaller wires on the GPR, what do they do? What should voltage be with those? or do they not matter at the moment?

Ill be buying a new GPR, and probably getting a Stancor this time, since 8 out of the 12 months here I use the GP's to start up.
 
#7 ·
Where are you grounding your meter? I don't understand how you can have .20v on the B+ side and 10v on the load side. The two small wires trigger the relay, one getting 12v and one being ground when the PCM requests glowplugs.
 
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#8 ·
it didnt drop TO .20V it Dropped .20V.

Example:
Started at 12.00V
Turned on Key
Dropped to 11.80V

I am grounding it to the - Battery Terminal
 
#9 ·
Oh, that makes more sense. Those numbers sound normal to me, but I wonder why you're going through relays. Maybe taking an amp reading to see what the glowplugs are drawing might shed some light.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I dont know why it keeps eating Relays. I probably should change the UVCH's but I dont have the time, or the cash to do it...

I do however use the Glow Plugs ALOT, like, its april now (damn close) and its 20* here... Come Sept. I will be back to needing them in the morning to start the truck. Its not like the truck sees much warm weather lately or much around here... PLUS, it came from a cold climate, so I am sure that the GP system is well used, and abused...

But I dont know, I figure I will give the 15V Stancor a try... Its 50-60 bucks, cheaper than an OEM one, and isnt cheap like the NAPA one I have now.

But, this is the one and only common problem I have with this truck. Other than keeping it in alignment :haha stupid TTB. So, I dont have much to complain about, just I dont want to be stranded at a powerplant in the middle of winter with -15* temps... With a NEW relay, it'll start in that weather, it did that night! Thankfully...

Just over time, the relay stops doing its job, and i have to replace it.

But, like you said, I think the AMP draw is just too much for the relays to handle. Especially since the Glow Plugs arent that old, and the wires are all good under the VC.
 
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