Seems I cant win with my truck. wned
First off, Truck is a 95 PSD.
Last year, I replaced the GPR with a Napa 109 model, for the older 7.3's and the year before, with a Ford OEM GPR, along with new OEM ZD-11 glowplugs.
It was 45*F this morning, and I use my remote starter to start my truck usually, before I head outside, so it can warm up.
Have a timer set for 30 seconds of GP heating, just to be sure. And recently, its been getting worse and worse for starting, and it took two tries for the remote start to start my truck today. and usually starts with a huge cloud of white smoke, which points to a GP problem.
If I let it sit for a day, forget it, cycle the plugs a few times, and it might start the first try.
The Battery guage in the truck dies when I turn the key on, like usual, and it seems like the GPR is working, but its not starting like its working.
Rundown:
3 year old HPOP
2 NEW Batteries
2 year old OEM GP's
1 year old Napa GPR
Just changed the oil yesterday
Lots of white smoke on start up
UVCH's are in good shape
FUEL BOWL HEATER is UNPLUGGED, it shorted out on me.
Now, I put a meter on the GPR, Hot side had 12V, turned on the key, and it dropped to under a volt. And stayed around there, jumping around a little, until the GPR shut off, and I watched the voltage climb back up to Batt. Voltage.
I Dont recall it making the "relay click" noise. And no matter what, the Hot side of the GPR is always black, stud, nut and all. I assume from heat? The cables are all in good condition though.
Is the GPR on the way out?
And if so, I am going to put a Stancor in it, but should I get the 12V or the 15V? I am tired of eating GPR's, and am hoping this solves my problem...
I heard someone say the 15V is better, because it can handle the charging load from the battery/alternator.
Any help? :happymugs
First off, Truck is a 95 PSD.
Last year, I replaced the GPR with a Napa 109 model, for the older 7.3's and the year before, with a Ford OEM GPR, along with new OEM ZD-11 glowplugs.
It was 45*F this morning, and I use my remote starter to start my truck usually, before I head outside, so it can warm up.
Have a timer set for 30 seconds of GP heating, just to be sure. And recently, its been getting worse and worse for starting, and it took two tries for the remote start to start my truck today. and usually starts with a huge cloud of white smoke, which points to a GP problem.
If I let it sit for a day, forget it, cycle the plugs a few times, and it might start the first try.
The Battery guage in the truck dies when I turn the key on, like usual, and it seems like the GPR is working, but its not starting like its working.
Rundown:
3 year old HPOP
2 NEW Batteries
2 year old OEM GP's
1 year old Napa GPR
Just changed the oil yesterday
Lots of white smoke on start up
UVCH's are in good shape
FUEL BOWL HEATER is UNPLUGGED, it shorted out on me.
Now, I put a meter on the GPR, Hot side had 12V, turned on the key, and it dropped to under a volt. And stayed around there, jumping around a little, until the GPR shut off, and I watched the voltage climb back up to Batt. Voltage.
I Dont recall it making the "relay click" noise. And no matter what, the Hot side of the GPR is always black, stud, nut and all. I assume from heat? The cables are all in good condition though.
Is the GPR on the way out?
And if so, I am going to put a Stancor in it, but should I get the 12V or the 15V? I am tired of eating GPR's, and am hoping this solves my problem...
I heard someone say the 15V is better, because it can handle the charging load from the battery/alternator.
Any help? :happymugs