Rusty oil pan syndrome...help! - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-02-2009, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Rusty oil pan syndrome...help!

What do you do to solve this??? I heard you have to pull the whole engine to get this done is this correct? I need some information on this because I am afraid I need to change my oil pan in the very near future.

Please help guys,

Thanks
AJ

2000 F-250 PSD Extended Cab Short Bed
-AutoMeter Gauges;Pyro, Tranny, Boost, Rear Diff, Fuel Pres, Air Pres.
-MBRP Turbo back, muffler delete
-AFE Stage II
-ITP Oil HPX Line
-CCV Mod
-AIH Delete

Trail rig: 1990 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0 I6, NP231 w/ SYE, Clayton Off road Long arm Suspension with coil conversion in rear, Full width Dana 44 up front(ARB, Warn Hubs and US Alloys Chromoly Axle shafts), full width Dana 60 in rear with Spool. 4.88 Gears all around, 36 inch Interco Bias Irok's, and lots of trail damage. :
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-02-2009, 09:40 PM
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I know of some guys who have sanded down the area to get to good metal...then undercoated the thing. It may only be a temporary band-aid though.

But yeah...if the oil pan rusts through and through...then yep...the motor has to come out to get replaced.

~Dave~

2012 F350 KR Dually, stock...bone stock.

early 99 PSD CC F250, DP Tuner F-5, Stealth Stage I, Casserly 160cc singles, Monsterbox Tranny, MBRP cool duals, ITP Regulated fuel system, Cobalts and Performax gauges, and way to much else to remember right now. **traded**

2004 Excursion Limited 6.0L, Dipricol gauges on the A-Pillar, Bilsteins and BFG's on the corners, lost EGR (not looking hard for it either), ARP studs, RCD Black Onyx head gaskets, MBRP 4" exhaust, (labor performed by Dan @ Midwest Transmission) **giggled when traded**

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-02-2009, 09:47 PM
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A friend of mine just has this same issue. He cleaned and stripped the pan the best he could. Put on POR 15 rust stopper. Then used spray on bed-liner.
Trick is to make sure all the oil gets worked out of the cracks first. By using brake clean or electro-wash. If you dare a little heat to drive out the oil also helps. He also let his truck sit for a month with no oil in it to give it ample time to cure..
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-02-2009, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Guys

2000 F-250 PSD Extended Cab Short Bed
-AutoMeter Gauges;Pyro, Tranny, Boost, Rear Diff, Fuel Pres, Air Pres.
-MBRP Turbo back, muffler delete
-AFE Stage II
-ITP Oil HPX Line
-CCV Mod
-AIH Delete

Trail rig: 1990 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0 I6, NP231 w/ SYE, Clayton Off road Long arm Suspension with coil conversion in rear, Full width Dana 44 up front(ARB, Warn Hubs and US Alloys Chromoly Axle shafts), full width Dana 60 in rear with Spool. 4.88 Gears all around, 36 inch Interco Bias Irok's, and lots of trail damage. :
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