starting system problems - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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starting system problems

2000 F350...my truck's starter was just clicking, so i replaced the solenoid. i went to start it again, and when i turned the key over, the engine turned over, and it kept cranking even when i let go of the key. i had to pull the cables off the batteries...

so i decided that i was going to change the starter relay (the one mounted on the fender well) because it seemed like the starter solenoid was getting a continous feed of power, causing the starter to keep cranking. so i replaced the starter relay. and put it all back together.

then the thing started clicking again...so i hit the "new" solenoid on the starter with a hammer, and it worked. let it sit for a minute, tried it again, and it just clicks again...hit it with a hammer again, and then it works. so, i figure that this new solenoid that i installed is just a junk one and it took a crap on me already...

put a new one on, and left the starter out of the truck, it was wired up correctly, but just hanging down below the engine(and yes i had it grounded) so i wouldnt have to install/remove it again if the damn thing didn't work.

so with the new solenoid on the starter, i just hit the key over and it all seemed to work fine, and stop spinnining when i released the key...did it 3 or 4 times just to be sure before i bolted it back up into place for the 30th time.

so now, once its IN the truck...turn it over, and now it's doing the whole...wont stop cranking...thing. had to pull the cables back off. So i kicked the side of my truck, threw my beer on the ground, and that was it...

i'm at a loss...why would it work fine out of the truck, and then the first tiem i installed it back into teh truck, and put engine load on it...it gets messed up and wont stop cranking.

any help???????????????????????!?!??!?!??

this thing is drivin me nuts...
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 09:03 PM
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I have ran into the problem of places testing starters and saying "good", the thing is when you test them at "no load" they may pass all day long. And when you test them under load ( hooked to engine ) they will fail. ( a stater might only require say..30amps to spin with no load, and require 200+ amps trying to turn the engine over) could be that your stater is failing and trying to weld the contacts of your relay keeping it energized.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 09:55 PM
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Is the engine properly grounded? Because the starter works correctly dangling from the wires, not bolted to the block, but hangs when bolted up leads me to think that the engine may not be correctly grounded any more. Even a small voltage drop on the ground cable to the batteries can be a potential problem.

Take a volt meter, place the POSITIVE lead on an assumed "good" engine ground spot, and the negative lead at one of the BATTERY B- posts, then crank. If you see over 0.5V showing on the meter, fix the bad ground to the engine (add a cable if you like, it's fast an cheap).

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-07-2009, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the quick replies

in response to both:

-if the contacts were welding themselves together, wouldn't it try to restart itself again once i put the battery cables back on the battery?

-and i'll check the grounding thing. hopefully that's the case, cuz you're right in that a grounding strap would be quick and easy. When i had the starter hanging connected to the wires under the truck, i had jumper cables connected to the starter and to the negative battery terminal, and i was working fine. i think that i'll also try just taking a jumper cable and connecting it to the negative battery cable and to the engine down around the starter, just to see what it does... i never thought of the grounding issue. i'm just tired of going to autozone...
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-08-2009, 01:51 AM
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well they actually dont weld together, but there is a big metal strip in the relay that with excessive amp draw it will stick to the contacts and when you disconnect the battery it will retract.
FYI you have 2 starter relays, the starter relay on the firewall does not supply the main power source to the starter, it only sends power to the second starter relay (on the starter) to trigger the relay on the starter. Basically The main battery cable goes directly to the starter motor, the firewall relay gets inergized from the ign switch, this relay then sends power to the starter motor relay which engages the starter motor.

What i would suggest at this point is bypass the firewall relay, crawl under the truck with a screwdriver or jumper wire ( put in park or neutral, brake set ) jumper the little yellow/light blue wire to the big red wire and see if you problem is still there. If so then you need a new starter unless you have a means to replace the relay on the starter

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-08-2009, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
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yeah, i realize that there are 2 relays, the fenderwell one (which as been replaced), and the starter solenoid/relay (which has been replaced 2 times). so...i guess what you mean by "if the problem still exists" is that when i bypass the ignition relay on the fenderwell and use the screwdriver to touch the points on the starter solenoid on the starter, this should engage the starter and spin the motor. And when i release the screwdriver, which is essentially turning the key off in the cab, the starter will still be spinning? so if this is the case, that rules out another faulty fenderwell relay, which leads to the starter being bad and drawing too much amperage.

makes sense. i'll give this a try tomorrow. along with the re-grounding of the starter. now all i need is for this seattle rain to stop!! i'm gettin tired of layin in the mud...

thanks. i'll report when i come up with something.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 12:52 AM
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having the same problem with my 96.....Hate to revive a dead thread but what fixed iT? The starter?

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