installing injectors in a '99 7.3 - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 02:59 AM Thread Starter
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installing injectors in a '99 7.3

alright, got a buddy who has 212K miles on his '99 7.3 and is swapping out his injectors for injectors from a '01 truck that has 80k. I've done injectors on 6L's but not 7.3's. I've got both valve covers and valve cover/injector harness gaskets off. I also drained the fuel filter housing to keep most of the fuel from draining into the cylinders when i remove them. Now i also heard that i need to remove both high pressure oil rail plugs on both heads. I pulled one plug out on the drivers side and very very little oil came out. Is it really worth pulling those plugs? How much oil and fuel will get into the cylinders if i dont pull the plugs?

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 03:08 AM
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you have to pull the plugs out of the heads or else you will hydrolock the engine. Or suck everything out with a pump.... These aren't like the 6.0 injectors where nothing goes into the cylinders...

Aaron - 2004 F350 "Offroad Edition"

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 03:20 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hhrecovery View Post
you have to pull the plugs out of the heads or else you will hydrolock the engine. Or suck everything out with a pump.... These aren't like the 6.0 injectors where nothing goes into the cylinders...
I'm taking it you mean the glow plugs right? i kinda knew that, but i was talkin about the two plugs for the oil rails on both heads.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 03:36 AM
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No, he's talking about the plugs for the oil rails.

You don't have to pull them, but if you don't, you will have to vacuum the cylinders or somehow evacuate the fluids before starting.

You can turn it over by hand or leave the GP's out and turn it over (very, very briefly) with the key (put the VC's on first), but you'll want to change the oil regardless because otherwise you have contamination from the fuel.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 03:47 AM
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No he means the oil plugs. I just did injectors yesterday and I've done them before. It works easier that way but if you dont you will need to take the glow plugs out (you may need to remove the push rods for room fo your socket) and once you have your injectors in (and bolted down) in plug the cam sensor so the truck wont start. Place rags over the glow plug holes. I just used a big old beach towel and laid a 2x4 on it. One of you holds that down with a finger and the other turns to motor over (hence the unplugged cam sensor) this will "blow" the oil and fuel out of the cylinders. Notice I said
"BLOW".... If you dont put a rag or towel there you will shoot oil/fuel onto your neighbors house . I just went a couple turns at a time for safety. Once you get everything back together, plug your cam back in, start the truck. Itll take a few tries cause of all the air in the lines and heads. Once it starts itll smoke! No worries itll clear up once you get the oil burned out of the cylinders. Good Luck!!
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 06:58 AM
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Watch these videos. Gives you instructions on removing the oil rail plugs, removing and installing injectors, and purging the cylinders with the glow plugs out:





Couple of things to note...... be VERY careful with those oil rail plugs. They can strip easily.

When installing the injectors, make sure they are bottomed out completely when you tap them in with the rubber mallet. I used a level to ensure that all injectors were seated equally and that none of them were sticking up higher than the others.

Purge the cylinders with the glow plugs out. That gives the remaining oil and fuel in the cylinders somewhere to evacuate so you don't hydrolock the engine. You can do this by putting the valve covers back on (only use a couple of bolts to hold them in place, finger tight is all you need), this will keep the oil from spraying all over the engine compartment. Also ensure that when you purge the cylinders that the injectors won't try to fire. Simply unplug the electrical connector on the CPS, or leave the injector harness unplugged. As an added bonus step that I do personally, after those quick purges shown in the video, I also did some extended cranking afterwards to evacuate a little more out of the cylinders, and also to start getting oil flowing back into the HPOP reservoir and the rails. Oh, and make sure the oil rail plugs are back in when you do this, and you can leave the valve cover gaskets (with wiring) out of the truck during this step so that the glow plug wires and connectors don't flop around freely while you're cranking. Sometimes the simple things get overlooked. Ya never know!!!

Also, if you want to triple check everything... after purging the cylinders and reinstalling the glow plugs, put the valve cover gasket back on and clip/plug all the wires back in to the injectors and glow plugs. Leave the valve covers off, plug in all the wiring (CPS wiring and injector harness), and crank the truck. Let it idle with the valve covers off and check to make sure the injectors are firing equally (watch the oil flow out of the oil deflectors, it should be equal on all injectors). Once you are sure everything works with the engine running, shut it off, reinstall the valve covers, intercooler piping, etc, and you're done.

Last, go drive the truck a good 30 minutes to get rid of all the smoke and purge the air out of the oil lines. It's going to have a white haze for the first several miles, then it will gradually reduce and go back to normal with no smoke. Also it's going to run rough at first. This is typical.

Hope this helps. And props to Maintain for those videos.

P.S. When cranking, make sure you don't leave any rags in the intake or turbo.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 01:38 PM
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Chris it will take force to get the new ones down in the cups..they dont just fall in like on a 6.0...use a long pry bar to get them out and a rubber hammer as stated to pound them back in.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzVhcfZN3jw
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-17-2010, 03:40 AM Thread Starter
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got done installing the injectors on my buddy's truck. Took 6.5 hours from start to finish and it runs good. Didn't think it was to bad for doing injectors for the first time on a 7.3. Just ended up pulling the high pressure rail plugs out then pulled the injectors out(used a pry bar) then all the glow plugs. put the high pressure rail plugs back in then installed all injectors. Used a rubber mallet to hit them in. Put valve covers on with two bolts on each and cranked it over. then i pulled the valve covers back off and installed the glow plugs. ended up putting new glow plugs in it cause the old ones had 212K miles on them. Hooked everything else back up on the truck and started cranking on her. Took quite a bit of cranking to get it to fire. Ran rough for a bit then cleared up and idled better. Went for a test drive and all was good. Thanks everyone for the help.

2004 F-350 XLT SC 4x4: SCT, AFE stage II, autometer gauges(pyro, boost, tranny, fuel), edge insight, CFM large mouth intake elbow, spearco, snow performance water injection, 5" stacks, ARP's, fluidampr, hypermax fire rings, LIPD regulated return, FASS, fuelab, casserly 190's, 64/71/70 turbo(polished compressor housing)modded FICM(ID), Hellmann's sump, electirc fans
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-17-2010, 07:36 AM
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Glad you got it up and running, and thanks for the update!
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