No Start... No Oil Pressure! - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-11-2010, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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No Start... No Oil Pressure!

My brother needs your help! 2003 350 Econoline 7.3L

Just got off the phone wiht him and he's got something odd going on... the van was on a 150 mile roundtrip ride and on the start of the return leg it quit and would crank but no start. After it cooled it started, then it ran till it warmed up and quit again, it cranked but no start... it cooled again and started but died in a few seconds, after that it refused to run again!

Had the van towed, and next day cranked and ran for a few mins and it quit again... then crank, crank, crank and no start. He put a pressure reader at the injector pump and no reading, so he replaced the injector pump with a spare and it still wont start and the pump stayed dry.

He noted that while cranking the dash oil pressure gauge didn't move, so he removed the oil pressure sending switch and cranked and no oil came out. Is that a tell tale sign that the oil pump went or is there something else going on? Anything else you guys recommend he do?

I'm not to familiar with all this diesel parts acronims so please try to use full names on what you recommed so I can relay to him since he doesn't speak a word of english... thanks
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-11-2010, 05:54 PM
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He could also have a cracked oil pickup tube.

What's his oil level at? Is it full? What he can try is to overfill the crankcase and do some cranking to see if he starts to get oil pressure that way. Obviously he shouldn't drive around with an overfilled crankcase, but if he can get the engine started that way, or start building oil pressure, then it narrows down the problem considerably (pretty much narrows it to a weak LPOP or cracked pickup tube).
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-11-2010, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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Oil level was normal, it was changed at scheduled interval and there are no leaks
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-11-2010, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE:
He added oil to the HPOP and the engine started and ran fine! Oil pressure checked good on the dash gauge and on his tester.

But he repaced the drive belt to give it a longer test run and it quit running. He noticed that the top alternator was overheating and burned his fingers trying to touch it! The lower one was warm and OK to touch.

Could that be the cause for the engine quiting? He thinks its overcharging and causing the PCM to Halt to protect itself... Any input on that one?

I suggested he disconnects the positive wire from the Alt and run it to see if it quits again.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-11-2010, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE:
He added oil to the HPOP and the engine started and ran fine! Oil pressure checked good on the dash gauge and on his tester.

But he repaced the drive belt to give it a longer test run and it quit running. He noticed that the top alternator was overheating and burned his fingers trying to touch it! The lower one was warm and OK to touch.

Could that be the cause for the engine quiting? He thinks its overcharging and causing the PCM to Halt to protect itself... Any input on that one?

I suggested he disconnects the positive wire from the Alt and run it to see if it quits again.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-11-2010, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Well the alternator is bad, but that's not what's causing it to quit! Its still shutting off after he disconnected it... Any ideas?

He replaced the ICP already.
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