Stripped Oil drain plug - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 05:10 AM Thread Starter
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Stripped Oil drain plug

"Thanks in advance for any help".
The Mazda Dealer I bought my '02 SD with 7.3 stripped the engine oil drain plug. Found out the damage after I went to the local Ford dealer to have a new fuel filter installed. I detected a leak when I stopped at Wally World after the install. I returned to the dealer and thats when they found the stripped drain plug. The People at Mazda siliconed around the plug to stop leak and it finally let loose and started heavily dripping oil.

Help! Ford wants to charge me $2000 to R&R the engine to replace the pan. Is there a easier fix? And yes I am going after the Mazda dealer.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 06:35 AM
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If an oversize can't be fitted another possibility is a Helicoil. I don't know the plug size but there are several repair sizes that cut new threads or just drill and tap for the next larger size plug as in 14mm will sub for a stripped oversize 1/2 in.

There are also expanding rubber plugs till the next oil change. The stripped plug is not safe to run!

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81 Isuzu /C223na, 5spd
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info keydl. BTW, I forgot to mention in my previous post that the Ford dealer said a Helicoil or oversized plug couldn't be used as well as retapping new threads?? Does that mean there is "that" much pressure in the pan? One would think a thick washer type slug could be welded on and then new threads cut.
I mean two grand is a lot money. Jeers to Ford for dumb engineering. I have a 8:00 AM at the Mazda Dealer. Will follow up when I get home tomorrow. Thanks again!
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 07:24 PM
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So, tell me why it's Ford's engineering fault and not the complete and utter fault of the idiots at the Mazda garage. It's not Fords fault Mazda hired an incompetent lube boy.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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I should have been more clear on my comment. Yes its the Mazda's Dealers fault. But a poor design when the engine has to be removed to replace a drain plug. Just so you know I've been a lifelong Ford person for 60 years and fact is fact. Poor design!
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-17-2010, 01:40 AM
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I'm guessing if it were possible to simply install a new plug or helicoil kit, Ford would rather get paid to pull your engine and replace your pan. I had a jacked up plug on another engine once before so I just got a new plug and threaded it up in there. Went in kinda hard but it worked and stayed in place.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-17-2010, 04:49 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks sdan27 and to all you guys that replied to my post. I now have some great ideas and ammunition to take to the Mazda dealer.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-17-2010, 06:43 AM
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The skill level of the Ford dealers employees is reflected in the bid.

I have repaired many - pull the plug and check the size, it may be 2 sizes large when you get it. The last person with a wrench on the plug may not have been the one to strip it, I did one that I am convinced that was stripped by a fired mechanic - the threads came out with the plug. The pressure in the pan is the depth of the oil ( roughly 2 foot to the pound ) plus the crankcase pressure - above 10 inches water colume something is not right. The pressure on the pan gasket is the speed of the oil off the crankshaft.

After you measure the outside of the threads look on a tap drill chart for the next size that will give at least 65% thread and see if a drain plug is made that size, if the hole gives over 85% thread you will need a tap drill. To tap use a socket that will drive the tap, if it is wobbley wrap it with sheet metal or tape so the tap goes straight in and a long extension to get it aimed straight. A little grease on the drill and tap will catch the chips. Or they can be fished out with a magnet.

I used a 1 in cap screw to do a 7/8 in drain plug, used a worn angle wheel to cut a grouve for an Oring, cut it off to length and drilled for a magnet. From the OS moment when it turned free to back to work in the dump about 45 min extra.

There is also a kit to replace the missing threads with epoxy, I would pass on that for a drain, fill is not a problem.

For a helicoil it will need to be cut to length - up to 1/2 thread on the inside, none on the outside. The stripped hole is very close in dia. Tap and clean the threads for Loctite, much easier if it drains overnight. Set the coil and wax the threads on the drain plug so it will come back out without the Helicoil. Noseize works for wax as well.

In the scrap yard we used the drain oil and I collected the plugs so the engines did not collect water. Sell an engine give them the drain plug, less problems with warranty.

And there is always the rubber plugs while you decide what to do, much better chance of help at the Mazda dealer if you ask the right questions - and the grease monkey will know that the RTV trick did not work. The rubber plug can be put in with a quart or 2 spilled in changing from the stripped to the rubber. I generally see the rubber plugs as a one use plug unless it is in a junker.

93 Dodge /CTD, IC, 518, club cab LE, BHAF, KDP fixed, kelderman air ride
81 Isuzu /C223na, 5spd

Last edited by keydl; 05-17-2010 at 06:53 AM.
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