a/c oriface tube?? - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-08-2010, 12:15 AM Thread Starter
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a/c oriface tube??

can someone tell me where the oriface tube is on my 02 7.3 thanks alot
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-08-2010, 09:56 PM
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The orfice tube is located in the liquid line at the evaporator.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-09-2010, 06:43 AM
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The orifice tube is in the Evaporator right behind the quick connect where the liquid line goes into the Evaporator (smaller dia line). You should be able to pull it out with some needle nose.

orifice tube specs below.
Color: Red
Diameter 1.57 mm (0.062 in)

My motto: Be nice, be polite, but have have a plan to kill everyone that you meet.

94 F250 IDI turbo, auto 2wd.. ATS housing, 3" down, 4" exh, guages. 104k miles got totalled by a damn mustang (parts now).

98 12v, 4x4 quad cab. auto with BD T/C & V/B, Banks Big head, Exh brake, AFC modded, 16.5ish*, KDP gone, 60lb springs, 4K-GSK, BHAF, pyro, trans, and boost guages. 4" straight pipe,

72 AM General M35A2, LDT465-1C "Whistler" Turbo, PTO winch.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-11-2010, 01:11 AM Thread Starter
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thanks guys I am pretty sure I know where yall are talking about I am going to give it a try .
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-11-2010, 03:25 AM Thread Starter
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tube was clogged with alot of crap, replaced recharged and its blowing 42 deg, out of the vent tonight, its not the coldest a/c ive ever had but it will deff work if it will maintain that . thanks again guys for you help!!!!!!!!
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-11-2010, 09:47 PM
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if you replace the orifice tube do u have to take all the refrigerant out?
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-11-2010, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccobra70 View Post
tube was clogged with alot of crap, replaced recharged and its blowing 42 deg, out of the vent tonight, its not the coldest a/c ive ever had but it will deff work if it will maintain that . thanks again guys for you help!!!!!!!!
if you had a bunch of crap in there then youre about to replace the
compressor, you just dont know it yet !

Quote:
Originally Posted by cong View Post
if you replace the orifice tube do u have to take all the refrigerant out?
ABSOLUTELY...done properly youll need to evacuate the system,
pull the orfice / screen & replace it, put it back together & evacuate
it AGAIN, then recharge the system & check for leaks.

Don R.

'04 350 4WD Lariat Crew Longbed (built 05.04)
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2010, 12:48 AM
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thanks man. I just replace my ac compressor but I have to leave it on my highest setting for it to be cold so maybe if i replace that it will get cold, and yes I have no leaks and its full of 134a
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2010, 02:09 AM
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i dont know this for a fact on the SD truck BUT all compressors ive ever seen or
worked on, wear the clutch air gap, you can shim the air gap on the clutch and
improve the cooling.

check the air gap 1st <its easiest to remedy>

http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/ACClutchAdjustment.htm

Don R.

'04 350 4WD Lariat Crew Longbed (built 05.04)
-------------------

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135 Amp Alternator Upgrade/Replacement
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2010, 07:27 AM
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The orifice tube is not a filter but it will act like one because it has a screen on it. Debris in the system cannot pass through the screen and will eventually create a restriction or stoppage. Most debris is usually from the compressor, but I have seen a few dessicant bags come apart too ( debris will look like sand or gritty powder ) The dessicant bag is part of the accumulator and its job is to trap mositure in the system. I always replace or at least clean the orifice tube if i'm replacing the compressor or have the system drained down for other reasons, it only takes a couple extra minutes if you already have the system drained or open. If it had a bunch of debris on the tube/screen there is a good chance more debris is in the system and will eventually make it to the orifice again unless you flush the system out.

I dont really see many concerns with clutch gap causing weak performance unless it is large and possibly delaying compressor engagement or slipping, and it probably wont last very long if its slipping before it burns up. I have never used a feeler guage to set the gap though, I always set the gap so its as close to the pulley as possible without rubbing when dis-engaged. My theory is you are leaving some room for normal wear in the clutch as it ages and increases gap.

My motto: Be nice, be polite, but have have a plan to kill everyone that you meet.

94 F250 IDI turbo, auto 2wd.. ATS housing, 3" down, 4" exh, guages. 104k miles got totalled by a damn mustang (parts now).

98 12v, 4x4 quad cab. auto with BD T/C & V/B, Banks Big head, Exh brake, AFC modded, 16.5ish*, KDP gone, 60lb springs, 4K-GSK, BHAF, pyro, trans, and boost guages. 4" straight pipe,

72 AM General M35A2, LDT465-1C "Whistler" Turbo, PTO winch.
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