16 cm Housing - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-28-2007, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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16 cm Housing

I dont have the money right now to buy a new turbo so I am thinking about doing the 16 cm housing but have a few questions. I mainly want to do this to help control egts when towing so is 16 cm the size i want or is there a better size. Is this worth the money? How hard is it to do? How much and were can I get it? When you go to a bigger housing do you make more boost? As of right now I am running about 37 pounds of boost. Thats about as much as I want to run with the stock head gasket. Is the 16 cm more efficent as far as bringing more cold air into the engine to help lower egts? Thanks

1997 Dodge 2500 4x4 auto, 4 inch exhaust, airaide intake, 0 plate, boost elbow, 4k gsk, trans, boost, and pyro gauges, built trans with billet converter, 16 cm exhaust housing.
1991 Dodge W250 4x4 manual, 3200 gsk, 4 inch straight piped, advanced timing 1/8", pump turned up all the way.
1997 F-250 Power Stroke-manual trans, 4" exhaust, TS 6 position chip with PHP Tunes, DIY intake, shimmend regulator.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-29-2007, 12:34 AM
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The 16 is a good upgrade, and will drop the temps. It will buy you time until you get bigger injectors. Your boost pressure will be a little lower, but you will be flowing more out the exhaust. That's where the lower temps come from, since there's not such a choking small housing.
The hard part is to get the old housing separated from the rest of the turbo. Usually they're rusted together, but penetrating oil & some finesse with a hammer it'll come apart. A few places sell them for around $150, one of our vendors(HTT) has them and many other upgrades. I'm sure there's others that carry it.

Dale

my daily driver:67 F100, 300 4V, cammed, 4 spd.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-29-2007, 02:04 AM
 
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:iagree
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-29-2007, 05:11 AM
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One thing not mentioned yet. Your running a wastegated housing currently. Going to the 16cm housing is not a direct bolt on. The 16cm nonwg housing is about 1 1/4 shorter than you current one. If there is not enough clerence for your down pipe to slide forward you might need to cut and weld in a extension piece.

Going to a WG housing on a first gen we have to shorten our down pipe
1 1/4".

93 W350 w/duals, fuel pin turned, 6X.018" injectors, 4" exhaust, 3" air intake horn, HX40/16, G56 /SBC Con-OFE, 307's axles' 2" skyjacker lift, B&W flatbed
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-29-2007, 02:14 PM
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I forgot all about that. When I did that to my old truck, I had issues with the exhaust. The front hanger had to come out so I could slide the pipe forward. You could also order a new exhaust with the 16 housing, since of them have adjustable hangers.

Dale

my daily driver:67 F100, 300 4V, cammed, 4 spd.
or, 08 Subaloser Forester, 2" lift.
work rigs: 94 IH 4900, DT466(originally 230hp), #0 fuel plate, tighter gov springs, 22* timing
or, 06 IH 7400, DT466E, 300hp


My Low Buck fuel rate site:
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 12:50 AM Thread Starter
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Is there any cons about this mod. Like being non waste gated? Im not really worried about the exhast extension but, does the down pipe I have now bolt right up to the 16cm houing? Thanks.

1997 Dodge 2500 4x4 auto, 4 inch exhaust, airaide intake, 0 plate, boost elbow, 4k gsk, trans, boost, and pyro gauges, built trans with billet converter, 16 cm exhaust housing.
1991 Dodge W250 4x4 manual, 3200 gsk, 4 inch straight piped, advanced timing 1/8", pump turned up all the way.
1997 F-250 Power Stroke-manual trans, 4" exhaust, TS 6 position chip with PHP Tunes, DIY intake, shimmend regulator.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 02:01 AM
 
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The downpipe will bolt up if you get it to reach.

A wastegate is helpfull to allow a safty in case you pressure is to high.

The cons are mostly that the turbo will be slower to spool and have less throttle response/low end.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 05:15 AM Thread Starter
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As far as spooling slower I can live with that. I dont want it to be really fast as much as pull hard and keep the egts down. The problem is there is a lot of steep hills around were I live so higher egts (1300-1400) for a longer period of time makes the engine temp start to climb to temps I dont like. The big diesel shop around here told me I can run 1400 degress all day and be fine. But even low 1300s she still wants to get hot. I dont have $1500 for a new turbo because I am waiting for the $4,500 trans I am going to have to put in soon. So I am working with what I can afford right now. Also would a diffrent thermostate work any better? Thanks again for everyones input?

1997 Dodge 2500 4x4 auto, 4 inch exhaust, airaide intake, 0 plate, boost elbow, 4k gsk, trans, boost, and pyro gauges, built trans with billet converter, 16 cm exhaust housing.
1991 Dodge W250 4x4 manual, 3200 gsk, 4 inch straight piped, advanced timing 1/8", pump turned up all the way.
1997 F-250 Power Stroke-manual trans, 4" exhaust, TS 6 position chip with PHP Tunes, DIY intake, shimmend regulator.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 05:56 AM
 
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1400* sounds lind high, I've always heard 1250* as a max continuous temp.

A larger turbo or compressor housing takes a little getting used to. But it would help.

A different thermostat might help alittle but it depends on what temp you have now. An auxillary cooling fan should also help. Intake and exhausts help lower egts and add power too.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 02:01 PM
 
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dodges run cool to begin with 190 is about as high as it gets no matter what except heavy traffic then it gets about 210! IMOa set of flexilte fans would fix that!
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