12V or 24V head? - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-29-2007, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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12V or 24V head?

I'm toying around the idea for a conversion, and would want to make it very unique. I'm considering going with a 98- block with a P7100 and mechanical lift pump. And rebuilding it with the 24V piston's and a 24V head, and finishing it all up with a HY35W turbo for quick boost with an auto. I would only be after 250-275HP, but I would want a broader power band than a standard 12V posses's with good milage.

Is there any powerband advantage to the 24V head over the 12V?
What camshaft's would work best with a 24V P pump engine?

I really appreciate any info I can get on this matter. I'm mostly toying with the idea at the moment, but it may become a reality by the first of the year depending on a few variables.

1995 GMC 2500 SUBURBAN, DURAMAX/ALLISON, 3.42 gears, 261 T-case, Trans has a mild build with ALOT of help from MIKE L. which included ALTO's for C1-C4, PI ML converter, DIAMONDEYE 4" exhaust, CORSA muffler, AFE stage 1 dry filter, EFILIVE, KENNEDY single pump, pump rub kit

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=10142
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-29-2007, 01:51 AM
 
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What kind of power band are you looking for? Are governor springs not enough?

For only 250hp thats a lot of work. You could get that w/ just a fuel plate on the 12 valve and you'd still have the same mileage as stock :shrug:
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-29-2007, 02:25 AM
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Yeah it's a crazy expensive way to go! If you insist on 24v then I'd pick up a low dollar 24v and give it a refresh along with your p-pump conversion. To buy all the parts and then build the whole engine it would kill the cost advantage.

I would also lean away from the hy9 or hy35. Not enough shaft there and that exhaust housing is too small for a large powerband. But then again I think bigger than 275hp.

Now that I think about it I'd almost look more at a 4bt for those HP goals. Not trying to get this into a 8V thread or anything.Lol, By the way what's it for??

Wade

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-29-2007, 02:55 AM Thread Starter
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I currently have a 95 SUBURBAN with a 6.5. It's got 3 freeze plugs leaking, and a blown head gasket. I started looking into it further and have found that I have block rot goin on. This started within 2 months of me purchasing the truck. SO I've been crunchin numbers, and a CUMMINS conversion looks alot better than spending the money on a longblock. And if I'm going to do a conversion, I'd like to make it unique. The old saying "WHY BE NORMAL" fit's me to a T. With my current set-up, I'm running almost 2500 RPM's @ 70. SO the stock 12V red-line of 2500 won't give me much top end, and I don't want to ditch my 4.10's for towing. I'm not really up on the performance end of the 12V engines, but had always heard that had a fairly narrow power band.

I worked on them in stock form for DODGE, but never dabbled much with modded engines. I didn't know if a gov spring would be enough to broaden the power band. I figured the cylinder head design would be a limiting factor. And with my zest for being unique, I figure why not a completely custom CUMMINS for my swap. And with all of the VP44's I changed for DODGE, I want no part of one of them. The common rail engines seem nice, but you just can't beat a P7100 for reliability. I know it's alot of work, but I've seen some high milage 12V's lately for under $750 that need freshening. SO I figured pick one up complete, then freshen it up with 24V pistons. Swap in a 24V head and the rest of it to make it work. This would give me the cover, gear's, and other such conversion items straight from the get go.

My other viable option is to patch up my 6.5 good enough to sell it, because I'll never get my money back if I put a new 6.5 in it and sell it. And go out and buy an EXCURSION diesel. I don't have to have the SUV, but the room sure comes in handy. And I rarely need a pick-up anymore.

1995 GMC 2500 SUBURBAN, DURAMAX/ALLISON, 3.42 gears, 261 T-case, Trans has a mild build with ALOT of help from MIKE L. which included ALTO's for C1-C4, PI ML converter, DIAMONDEYE 4" exhaust, CORSA muffler, AFE stage 1 dry filter, EFILIVE, KENNEDY single pump, pump rub kit

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=10142
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-29-2007, 01:57 PM
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Yeah the 2nd gen 12v can be modded slightly to give you your numbers. I had 2 6.5's and they were both disapointments compared to any one of my 12'ers. Governor springs can take you to 4500rpms as long as you do some heavier valve springs when you're in there. I would stay with the 12V head just for injector choices and prices not to mention reliability.

As for the whole deal, I recommend sending the pump to Jeff Garmon (I've heard NOTHING BUT GREAT STUFF) and talk to him about your setup. A good charger would help and there is no reason to limit this at 275hp. I'd say 400 and that will put you very well off.

Good luck on your quest for the 6.5 cure!

Wade

06 Mega Cab 3500 CTD 4X4 Auto SRW
http://www.hoosiertruckclub.com/phpBB3/index.php
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-29-2007, 04:49 PM
 
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With some governor springs you'll get the rpms up to about 4 thousand easy. But the cummins have A LOT more low end torque then your 6.5 I have 3.55 gears and 35" tires (about equal to 3.14's w/ stock tires) and its still got lots of low end. The cummins will need a different gearing setup.

The hx35 is good for the 300hp you are talking about. Anything else will probably be to big.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-30-2007, 04:55 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thefermanator
I'm toying around the idea for a conversion, and would want to make it very unique. I'm considering going with a 98- block with a P7100 and mechanical lift pump. And rebuilding it with the 24V piston's and a 24V head, and finishing it all up with a HY35W turbo for quick boost with an auto. I would only be after 250-275HP.
Your on the right track for what I'd call a "Holy Grail"

P7100 on a 24Valve is just a unbeatable combo.
*(If you can get it to run right)
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