need advice on hot rod project - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 01:34 AM Thread Starter
 
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need advice on hot rod project

hey guys and gals. I have found a 1989 dodge (not sure model yet) with a cummins in it. The truck has a camper on it ( I do mean camper not slide in). any way I work with the owner and he states that it just needs the head put back on etc.. He is the diesel mechanic at our shop so I trust what he say's. My plan is to get the drive train as strong as possible and find a 1/2 ton truck to swap it into. I'm not sure where to start other than getting it running. I'm getting it cheap and selling my streetbike so I will have around $2500 to throw at it. Should I get some head work done while it's off or is that a wast of funds. I'm knew to the 12v so any help would be great. My plan is to have a hot rod, something I can take to the drag stip and play with around town. IT dosen't have to be a daily driver ( would be nice though). Any advice would be great. :smoke
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 05:07 AM
 
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If its an 89, it will have the 1st generation Cummins in it. Maybe look at swappin in a P7100 pump? Then go from there.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-16-2007, 01:55 PM
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On a budget, keep the stock pump, it can be worked over. Having a hot-rod doesnt seem like the need to swap over to a P-pump. You could port the head yourself and save some money. For 2500, you can go pretty dern fast.

Dale

my daily driver:67 F100, 300 4V, cammed, 4 spd.
or, 08 Subaloser Forester, 2" lift.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 01:06 AM
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if it were me i would put the p-pump (with new dv's and plate,afc mod), bigger turbo housing build an intercooler and intake,4000gsk, exhaust and run it... but do u have 2500 for just the motor or total project? all that is less then 2000 i think but if the head is off u might as well fire ring it with the marine kit so in the future you could really put the air to it (with more money of course) but I would go 3/4 ton and cut the tail if u really want a short box but the weight of the 12 valve cummins 5.9 is too much for stock 1/2 ton everything.... good luck and keep us posted with pix..... injectors too now that i think of it........... just what i would do

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-28-2007, 12:50 AM
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On that 89 CTD it has the large 9MM injectors in it. Those heads were known to crack because of the large injectors tips it was worse if you cranked the fueling up on them.

If the head is off grab anything 12 valve and install it. Then replace the injectors with 7MM tips.

The 91.5 to 93 CTD's had a better head then that one as far as air flow. The 12 valves 94 and up flowed a little better than the 91.5 to 93's. I have heard the 94 +flows around 5% better.

To swap to a P-Pump is to expensive. Unless someone gives you a complete setup. You would need a injection pump and drive gear, timing cover, injector lines. Then you would need to replace the injectors to P-Pump spec's. Then you would need to MFG a custom throttle linkage to make everything work together. This would take most of the budget you listed. Just for the swap.

With that engine.

Better turbo, the stocker is a H1C with a 3" inlet. Also known as a baby H1C. The later intercooled turbo is the same model but has a 4" inlet. It has a 18.5 cm exhaust housing. Most people go to a 16 or a 14cm exhaust housing for a little better throttle response.

Better exhaust, The stock 3" is more restictive than you would think it is.

Bigger injectors, The stock injectors are very close to POD's as far as flow rates. So think bigger yet. Then a few of turns on a couple of screws and it will get you by. Figure 300 HP or a little over and be very streetable.

No 1/2 ton dodge chassis will hold up under 1000 lbs of cummins. The frame is to light in thickness, The rear axle is to light. The front suspension is to light. I have seen 1/2 tons with V8's break the frames before.

93 W350 w/duals, fuel pin turned, 6X.018" injectors, 4" exhaust, 3" air intake horn, HX40/16, G56 /SBC Con-OFE, 307's axles' 2" skyjacker lift, B&W flatbed
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-28-2007, 01:02 AM
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Another thing I forgot.

With the P-Pump swap you would need very custom injectors. The pistons are different between a 1st & 2nd gen. The injector spray angles are different. You would need a set of injectors with P-pump line fittings and pop pressures and 1st gen tips for the correct spray angle.


BTW my fingers are sore now.

93 W350 w/duals, fuel pin turned, 6X.018" injectors, 4" exhaust, 3" air intake horn, HX40/16, G56 /SBC Con-OFE, 307's axles' 2" skyjacker lift, B&W flatbed
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2008, 07:04 PM
 
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12 valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip
. . . The 12 valves 94 and up flowed a little better than the 91.5 to 93's. I have heard the 94 +flows around 5% better. . . Better turbo, the stocker is a H1C with a 3" inlet. Also known as a baby H1C. The later intercooled turbo is the same model but has a 4" inlet. It has a 18.5 cm exhaust housing. Most people go to a 16 or a 14cm exhaust housing for a little better throttle response.

Better exhaust, The stock 3" is more restictive than you would think it is. . .
pardon some minor hijacking here, but I have a '90 W250 CTD with a '94 Cummins reman engine, and the H1C turbo. Would this reman engine have the '94 heads you speak of, and how could I tell? Is there a 4" non-IC turbo available which would help this engine breathe without increasing EGTs much, and if so, wouldn't I also need to swap out the intake pipe which goes over the head?

As to exhaust, I gather there is no point in going to a 4" exhaust with the 3" H1C, right?

After working with my 3/4 ton, and seeing what the weight of that CTD has done to the front springs, I would have to agree that putting a 6BT in a 1/2 ton truck is not the way to go. Also, in a 4x4 there is no front axle smaller than a D60 or 61 which is rated for the weight of the Cummins, AFAIK (not to mention brakes, wheel bearings, etc) and I've never heard of a 1/2 ton with a OEM front D60.

Thanks in advance!
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2008, 10:33 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip
The 91.5 to 93 CTD's had a better head then that one as far as air flow. The 12 valves 94 and up flowed a little better than the 91.5 to 93's. I have heard the 94 +flows around 5% better.
All 7mm nozzle heads are the same.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-23-2008, 10:35 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip
Another thing I forgot.

With the P-Pump swap you would need very custom injectors. The pistons are different between a 1st & 2nd gen. The injector spray angles are different. You would need a set of injectors with P-pump line fittings and pop pressures and 1st gen tips for the correct spray angle.
Marine injectors with 7-9mm adapters would work since his pistons are 155*.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-24-2008, 04:17 AM
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Keith when I went to the 4" exhaust system I had a 100 degree drop in EGT's at WOT. So I would say it is a worth while up grade.

When I went to the HX35 turbo I had the EGT's drop another 50 degrees.

The baby H1C and the larger inlet IC'd H1C are rated for the same amount of air flow..

Smokem which marine injectors?? His stock injecters are a 4X0.012 the 370 marine injectors would be a good upgrade if he could control the smoke. Most 1st gen guy's I know have had problems with smoke control with the 2nd gen 370's.

93 W350 w/duals, fuel pin turned, 6X.018" injectors, 4" exhaust, 3" air intake horn, HX40/16, G56 /SBC Con-OFE, 307's axles' 2" skyjacker lift, B&W flatbed
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