AUTO to MANUAL - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 03:57 AM Thread Starter
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AUTO to MANUAL

Has any one every done this? How hard is it to do and ball park figure about how much this would cost(probabley get the tranny from a junk yard)? Thanks.

1997 Dodge 2500 4x4 auto, 4 inch exhaust, airaide intake, 0 plate, boost elbow, 4k gsk, trans, boost, and pyro gauges, built trans with billet converter, 16 cm exhaust housing.
1991 Dodge W250 4x4 manual, 3200 gsk, 4 inch straight piped, advanced timing 1/8", pump turned up all the way.
1997 F-250 Power Stroke-manual trans, 4" exhaust, TS 6 position chip with PHP Tunes, DIY intake, shimmend regulator.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-07-2008, 12:49 PM
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It has been done quite a few times. Easiest way, and maybe the cheapest, would be to find someone to swap with. Find someone with the same year, model and wheelbase.

Would be better if you have a built trans, then it will be a more even trade. I would like to do the same thing to my truck. Auto to manual. Just haven't found someone close enough yet.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-08-2008, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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Well the reason why i want to do this is the tranny in my truck now is starting to slip. So I was wondering would the swap be cheaper than the $4,000 it would cost for a new one say if I did get the tranns and other stuff from say the junk yard? I wanted a manual in the first place but couldnt find one I liked so I bought this one. What electrical components do I need?

1997 Dodge 2500 4x4 auto, 4 inch exhaust, airaide intake, 0 plate, boost elbow, 4k gsk, trans, boost, and pyro gauges, built trans with billet converter, 16 cm exhaust housing.
1991 Dodge W250 4x4 manual, 3200 gsk, 4 inch straight piped, advanced timing 1/8", pump turned up all the way.
1997 F-250 Power Stroke-manual trans, 4" exhaust, TS 6 position chip with PHP Tunes, DIY intake, shimmend regulator.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-08-2008, 12:47 AM
 
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If you buy a manual you will need a heavy duty clutch too. I had the same setup except a 100 plate before I put my injectors in and I could spin the clutch. Now I do have the 215's and my clutch is this weekend's project.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-08-2008, 01:04 AM
 
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I'd just rebuild your auto and beef it up. You'll be alot happier. I have one with a beefed up auto and one with a 6 speed. The auto is alot more fun to drive.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-08-2008, 02:01 AM
 
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That's where you start to split hairs^^^ I wouldn't drive an auto unless I'm drag racing or it's my buddy's rig. Some people just don't like to shift. Some people really like to feal exactly what's going on with the rig. Some people don't have a left leg. I can't drive an auto because I just "mash 'n' go"
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-07-2008, 12:07 AM
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Auto outta necessity

Then there are the people like myself that need a automatic because we plow snow. Depressing a clutch constantly for 10-20 hrs really wears on your knees!! I will agree for any sports car I own it will have to be a manual. There is no better feeling than approaching a corner, downshifting, hitting the apex and exploding like a frog from a slingshot! But lets be honest who throws their 8000lb truck through corners like a Porsche? There is one exception in my book. I plan in the furure to build a Cummins powered drag Bronco that I will install a manual in, but that will be a purpose built drag truck with little street time: !

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-07-2008, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmoeller
Would be better if you have a built trans, then it will be a more even trade. I would like to do the same thing to my truck. Auto to manual. Just haven't found someone close enough yet.
If you decide to do a conversion I will take your auto off your hands. As stated above I must remain an auto man for my work trucks. Let me know:thanks:

No brand loyalty, just a love of diesels!!

1994 Ram 2500 CTD K&N intake, MBRP exhaust, full Goerend tranny, #100 Fuel plate, 60# valve springs, 4k GSK, Thuren steering stabilizer, Thuren Track Bar, +2.5" progressive rate coil springs, Bilstein 5100's, BD Diesel SBS, chassis mods, 315/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac, Isspro tri-pod EGT, fuel, and boost, Eclipse CD, 8' Boss snowplow
Fuel Heater Deleted! KORE dual Heim Joint end links waiting to go in

2004 F-250 Powerstroke aFe stage II, Hypertech PTM, Recon mirror markers, Firestone airbags w/ compressor, Rancho 9000's on all four w/ myride, 20" Pacer on 33/12.5 Nitto Mud Grapplers, Eclipse CD, 8' Boss snowplow

Blizzard IceChaser 1.5 cubic yd. poly salt and sand spreader!
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-07-2008, 04:34 AM
 
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Why would you put a stick in a dedicated drag racer?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-07-2008, 05:37 PM
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Previous experience

In my younger years all sports cars and race cars I owned/driven have been manuals. I know that you will never be able to shift a stick as fast as a auto can but i always believed to build an auto for dragracing would not be very cost efficient. If there is a reason i should stick with an auto please inform me. I am open to all suggestions. Thanks!!:

No brand loyalty, just a love of diesels!!

1994 Ram 2500 CTD K&N intake, MBRP exhaust, full Goerend tranny, #100 Fuel plate, 60# valve springs, 4k GSK, Thuren steering stabilizer, Thuren Track Bar, +2.5" progressive rate coil springs, Bilstein 5100's, BD Diesel SBS, chassis mods, 315/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac, Isspro tri-pod EGT, fuel, and boost, Eclipse CD, 8' Boss snowplow
Fuel Heater Deleted! KORE dual Heim Joint end links waiting to go in

2004 F-250 Powerstroke aFe stage II, Hypertech PTM, Recon mirror markers, Firestone airbags w/ compressor, Rancho 9000's on all four w/ myride, 20" Pacer on 33/12.5 Nitto Mud Grapplers, Eclipse CD, 8' Boss snowplow

Blizzard IceChaser 1.5 cubic yd. poly salt and sand spreader!
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