Compressor or exhaust housing? - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 02:11 AM Thread Starter
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Compressor or exhaust housing?

I dont have the money right now for a hole new setup and it might be a while. So I need to know, for cooling egts what upgade will work better. A 14 cm exhaust housing or the compressor upgrade to make my stocker a hx35/40?

1997 Dodge 2500 4x4 auto, 4 inch exhaust, airaide intake, 0 plate, boost elbow, 4k gsk, trans, boost, and pyro gauges, built trans with billet converter, 16 cm exhaust housing.
1991 Dodge W250 4x4 manual, 3200 gsk, 4 inch straight piped, advanced timing 1/8", pump turned up all the way.
1997 F-250 Power Stroke-manual trans, 4" exhaust, TS 6 position chip with PHP Tunes, DIY intake, shimmend regulator.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 04:03 AM
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Compared to my setup, I bet your EGT's are mild But what do you do most with your rig? It would be better if you could do both, its still cheaper than a whole new turbo. I think it depends on where you spend the most time in your RPM range. If your always up towards 2500 or more I would get a 16 cm exhaust housing. If you stay in the lower RPMs I would get the compressor.

Logan
1995 12 valve Cummins 6.0L, Air Dog 150, no fuel plate, AFC tuning, 024 DV's, 4K GSK, 18* timing, SDX 5x.014 injectors, Hamilton 181/210 cam and HD pushrods, Stage 2 Port job, 5 angle valve job, 60lb valve springs, ARP studs, O-ringed head, .020" over head gasket, coated pistons, balanced bottom end, Fluidampr, PDI exhaust manifold, homemade intake manifold, HE351cw Common Rail turbo and 50mm wastegate.
Drive Train: 13" Valair clutch [email protected], 5 speed, 4x4, 3.55 diffs, on 285/75 R16s

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 04:35 AM Thread Starter
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Around 2000 to 2300 rpm. This truck is mostly a tow rig. So spool up time is not a big issue as much as egt control. Mild you say. My pyro goes to 1600 and I could bottom that thing out like its nothing.

1997 Dodge 2500 4x4 auto, 4 inch exhaust, airaide intake, 0 plate, boost elbow, 4k gsk, trans, boost, and pyro gauges, built trans with billet converter, 16 cm exhaust housing.
1991 Dodge W250 4x4 manual, 3200 gsk, 4 inch straight piped, advanced timing 1/8", pump turned up all the way.
1997 F-250 Power Stroke-manual trans, 4" exhaust, TS 6 position chip with PHP Tunes, DIY intake, shimmend regulator.

Last edited by cumminsdiesel; 03-18-2009 at 04:39 AM. Reason: Adding text
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 04:40 AM Thread Starter
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Also do I want the 14 or the 16 cm exhaust housing?

1997 Dodge 2500 4x4 auto, 4 inch exhaust, airaide intake, 0 plate, boost elbow, 4k gsk, trans, boost, and pyro gauges, built trans with billet converter, 16 cm exhaust housing.
1991 Dodge W250 4x4 manual, 3200 gsk, 4 inch straight piped, advanced timing 1/8", pump turned up all the way.
1997 F-250 Power Stroke-manual trans, 4" exhaust, TS 6 position chip with PHP Tunes, DIY intake, shimmend regulator.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 05:40 AM
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Dont buy an upgraded compressor and install it yourself unless you want to have shards of metal stuck in your engine.

I vote for the exhaust housing. Go with a 16cm. I used an 18.5 for a little bit and liked it but i had more fuel that you do.

Eric

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by cumminsdiesel View Post
Mild you say. My pyro goes to 1600 and I could bottom that thing out like its nothing.
Yes I do say mild. Is your probe located pre or post turbo? Mine is post turbo and I can pass 1500 which equates to over 1800 pre turbo reading. I've only done it a couple times, I know it's not good but I'm working on more air right now.

I would get a 16 cm wastegated housing. From what I've been told it will take about another 100-150 RPM to spool.

Eric, why would metal shards end up in the engine? You can buy compressor housings that are machined to fit the body of the turbo right.

Logan
1995 12 valve Cummins 6.0L, Air Dog 150, no fuel plate, AFC tuning, 024 DV's, 4K GSK, 18* timing, SDX 5x.014 injectors, Hamilton 181/210 cam and HD pushrods, Stage 2 Port job, 5 angle valve job, 60lb valve springs, ARP studs, O-ringed head, .020" over head gasket, coated pistons, balanced bottom end, Fluidampr, PDI exhaust manifold, homemade intake manifold, HE351cw Common Rail turbo and 50mm wastegate.
Drive Train: 13" Valair clutch [email protected], 5 speed, 4x4, 3.55 diffs, on 285/75 R16s

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cummins power View Post
Yes I do say mild. Is your probe located pre or post turbo? Mine is post turbo and I can pass 1500 which equates to over 1800 pre turbo reading. I've only done it a couple times, I know it's not good but I'm working on more air right now.

I would get a 16 cm wastegated housing. From what I've been told it will take about another 100-150 RPM to spool.

Eric, why would metal shards end up in the engine? You can buy compressor housings that are machined to fit the body of the turbo right.
Yes, my buddy uses an upgraded compressor side of his hx35 and likes it. But it takes a good deal of balancing that new intake side onto the hx35, and one little mistake can cause agony, since it has to be perfectly balanced. Im not doubting the upgrade, but if it has to be that way, at least have a turbo shop balance it.

Eric

1994 Dodge Ram 2500

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-18-2009, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so I was going to get the 16 but bolth the big shops around here said do the 14. They said they dont think I would be happy with the driveability of the 16 at our elevation. SLC, Ut around 5200 feet. More input please as now I am confused as which one to buy.

1997 Dodge 2500 4x4 auto, 4 inch exhaust, airaide intake, 0 plate, boost elbow, 4k gsk, trans, boost, and pyro gauges, built trans with billet converter, 16 cm exhaust housing.
1991 Dodge W250 4x4 manual, 3200 gsk, 4 inch straight piped, advanced timing 1/8", pump turned up all the way.
1997 F-250 Power Stroke-manual trans, 4" exhaust, TS 6 position chip with PHP Tunes, DIY intake, shimmend regulator.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-19-2009, 06:37 PM
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Around 2000 to 2300 rpm. This truck is mostly a tow rig. So spool up time is not a big issue as much as egt control. Mild you say. My pyro goes to 1600 and I could bottom that thing out like its nothing.
Going from this post, I would go with the 16. It will lower the EGT's more, although I'm not exactly sure how much. Another second or two isn't that long to wait for spool up.

Logan
1995 12 valve Cummins 6.0L, Air Dog 150, no fuel plate, AFC tuning, 024 DV's, 4K GSK, 18* timing, SDX 5x.014 injectors, Hamilton 181/210 cam and HD pushrods, Stage 2 Port job, 5 angle valve job, 60lb valve springs, ARP studs, O-ringed head, .020" over head gasket, coated pistons, balanced bottom end, Fluidampr, PDI exhaust manifold, homemade intake manifold, HE351cw Common Rail turbo and 50mm wastegate.
Drive Train: 13" Valair clutch [email protected], 5 speed, 4x4, 3.55 diffs, on 285/75 R16s

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-21-2009, 01:04 AM Thread Starter
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Bought 16 today and had it on in little over an hour. Takes a little longer to spool but not bad. When I floor it egts still go right to 1600 degrees. So will see if it helps a little when I pull my trailer.

1997 Dodge 2500 4x4 auto, 4 inch exhaust, airaide intake, 0 plate, boost elbow, 4k gsk, trans, boost, and pyro gauges, built trans with billet converter, 16 cm exhaust housing.
1991 Dodge W250 4x4 manual, 3200 gsk, 4 inch straight piped, advanced timing 1/8", pump turned up all the way.
1997 F-250 Power Stroke-manual trans, 4" exhaust, TS 6 position chip with PHP Tunes, DIY intake, shimmend regulator.
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