I'm glad the gentlemen here are lookin after you!
Had a read of the thread -
Wash the filter - we wash our Toyota one in just warm water and dish washing detergent. It's important we buy the "washable" filter - they are dearer, than the paper element disposable filter, and have a filter medium that doesn't disintregrate when it gets wet.
We blow it out with compressed air before we wash it - then dry it after washing again, with compressed air.
We DON'T put the wet filter back in the truck - I guess we could but we don't - we have 2 washable filters - we put in one that we washed last time that's had a month or three to dry in the garage, and put the wet one up on the shelf to let it dry fully for use next time - we just rotate the 2 filters.
I don't like the idea of a LOT of air under vacuum pressure being sucked thru wet filter medium, in case the medium lets go from the filter and gets sucked thru the turbo & engine.
It's like everything with these trucks (they cost an arm and leg to work on) - IF you have the gear, (i.e. an auto enginuity software program and connector - no change outta about $US700, bye the time you buy the extra non OBD11 compliant vehicle unlock dongle code from auto enginuity to make it work on your F truck) THEN - getting your on board computer "re flashed" (set back to original default settings) costs nothing.
Dealers usually charge a LOT ($75 or so) to do this for you when a fault code comes up on the dash lights....so eventually your software will pay for itself.
It diagnoses any fault while the engine is running, and gives a list of code numbers.
You can download the list of codes numbers and what they mean off the net - put the pages in a folder and keep with the truck - and basically you can then diagnose ANY fault.
BUT - do you want to spend that kinda $ ?
Sadly I did, then when my truck was getting fixed - one of the mechanics stole my connector fitting. I'm now 1000 miles away and have no connector - it turns out the unlock code I bought is stored in the dongle type computer connector that was stolen - so while I still have the software on the laptop....the company can't just sell me a new connector - no, I have to BUY the whole shebang again (with exchange rate - over $1K Australian)!
Anyway a LOT of these guys here probably have the diagnostic software and codes etc and can twist spanners, so they think nothing of putting chips in bye themselves - figuring they can reverse any screwups, at no cost!
You aren't in that position.
You can't "borrow" someone elses diagnostic software and connector coz each one is registered against your vehicles on board computer serial number, and will only work on THEIR vehicle.
Only the dealers have a program designed by Ford to read ALL F trucks...
I reckon - without the computer backup to reset all defaults I'd think twice about adding a 2nd hand chip with no warranty and manual etc - i.e. flying blind.
Also IF the vehicle has any warranty?, you might have to remove the chip before you go back to any dealer for warranty work or they will claim warranty has been breached/voided by the chip. You can't do this without your own software / computer setup.
IF you make friends with one of the GOOD spanner twisters off these forums who lives in your area - MAYBE they can help you to do the chip install?
With the software from auto enginuity - you can monitor your engine as you drive along on your laptop and it will diagnose ANY faults - there are something like 600? sensors in the F trucks that the software reports on - including every globe / light , door switch etc etc etc.
You can clear any fault codes and then see if they re occur.
You can keep records of what work and replacement parts have been used etc.
Its tough to do all this if you haven't got the backup cash when it goes wrong.
Remember - a simple electrical problem with my Injector Control Module up under the Left Hand Fender, took 5 months, 3 repairers and over $6K to fix.
You really wanna screw with that on board computer - going in blind?
If it were me I wouldn't, without experienced help.
Now Marvel Mystery Oil in the truck.
It's great stuff & been around for years and years, was great in old 351 V8 gassers etc.
Probably make a good fuel additive in diesel even now.
I once 'researched" what was actually in it - s'posed to be a great company secret, but the govt requirements for MSD's (Material Safety Data Sheets) means that you can't hide the contents any longer, ANYONE can google MSD for Marvel Mystery Oil and discover the contents these days.
Turns out it was a mix of 3 ingredients from memory.
1. Auto Trans fluid (Naphthhenic Hydrocarbons?)
2. Turpentine (or Mineral "Turpentine" spirits ? my memory escapes me now)
3. Chlorinated Parrafin? (Chlorinated Hydrocarbons) - A cutting oil used in the tooling industry which has vary interesting characteristsics in that it is attracted to HEAT source - any bearing or moving part that wears and causes heat, attracts the very slippery Chlor Parrafin too the hot spot - hence why they use it in the tooling industry for lathe cutting etc - the lubricant is attracted to the hot spot and cools/lubricates it to defeat the heat & thus wear).
In this respect it probably out performs Teflon which you often see as an oil additive (and on non stick cooking pans)
Each of the components are cheep as chips but the mixed "mystery snake oil" sold for a fortune amd made a few family fortunes for many many years for the "Mystery" people.
You can BUY each of the components for Marvel Mystery Oil, quite cheap and make your own to add to the fuel.
Personally I wouldn't use it as a sump oil (but many do - its sold commerciallly as "Bitron" - google it up). Gasses of combustion that bypass the rings into the sump are Hydro carbons, and when they react with the Chlorinated Parrafin of the Marvel Mystery Oil, the Result is Hydro Chloric Acid!
This hydro chloric acid, is highly corrosive, and can eat / rust the internals of your engine IMHO.
While the sump oil has either calcium (or now with catalytic converters Molybednum) as a base to neutralise any acids in the oil - the production of Hydrochloric acid in your sump will only exhaust the base thats added to the sump oil - more quickly, meaning no extended oil change intervals etc.
I WOULD consider adding a little Marvel Mystery Oil to my diesel rather than the two stroke oil, If I were you - I don't think it can hurt in small quantities!
Chlorinated parrafin has unique qualities of lubrication that suit it to being added to lubricating oils that are NOT inside an internal combustion engine, - you probably couldn't get a better additive for diffs oils and power steering pump fluids etc etc..
Cheers & good luck with it - keep me posted how you end up.