Superchips 1705 question - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-04-2009, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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Superchips 1705 question

Hi. I'm new to the forum and was hoping I could get some advice from the experts on here. I am not a diesel expert in any way, shape or form. I didn't even sleep at a Holiday Inn last night. Now if you want to ask questions about saltwater fishing I can probably help you.

Here's my deal. I bought a used 2000 F-250 Lariat 7.3 crewcab, non-dually 2WD, automatic. It had 140k miles on it. I took it to a good auto shop that specializes in diesels and had them check everything for needed maintenance & repairs. Other than the 150K service items, ball joints and new brake pads all around were the only things needed.

I'd been hearing for years that the 7.3 L was the way to go as it had the best fuel economy among diesels, yada yada. I wasn't looking for tire-screeching acceleration, wasn't looking to make smoke like a WWII navy destroyer, etc - I just wanted fuel economy in a full-sized pickup. I always track my mileage at every fill-up. Wow, was I surprised when I realized I was only getting 11mpg city and 14mpg hiway! WTF?!?

So I installed the Air Raid air filter kit and started using Chemsearch Diesel Guard fuel additive. I noticed maybe 1mpg improvement. The truck already has the big pipe exhaust.

My friend Kevin had sold his F-250 7.3L a few months ago. He'd used the 1705 Superchips tuner to chip his truck but before he'd sold his truck, he de-tuned it to zero out the VIN number out of his 1705 tuner. He very kindly gave the 1705 tuner to me. After a helpful soul gave me the link over on another truck site, I managed to download the 1705 manual. The only problem with the Superchips manual is that they assume the people reading the manual aren't dumbazzes. Well, I'm a Dumb Swede and I can't see anywhere in the manual that says "If you want the best fuel economy and don't care about towing, use this setting..."

The only three settings available are "Hi Performance", "Performance Tow" and "Tow Safe". Which one should I use for my best fuel economy?
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Next issue: Another friend of mine, Jim, has the identical truck as I do except that he has the 2001 extended cab and mine is the 2000 crewcab. He's getting a little over 18-19 mpg city & 21mpg hiway. He says his truck is not chipped, he got it new from the local Ford dealer. Neither of us is heavy on the pedal so driving style isn't a factor. What makes such a difference in fuel economy between the two model years? Supposedly my truck year's differential only came with the 3.73 gears and they are said to be better economy than the 4.11 gears that were available in later year models. Any suggestions here?

Thanks in advance for all your help.

Mark
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-04-2009, 05:36 PM
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First off Welcome to TDG!!

I would go with the "Performance Tow" setting and try to keep your foot out of it for best results.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-04-2009, 06:38 PM
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I started out with that programmer and got my best results on tow performance.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-05-2009, 08:51 AM
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Hey Mark,

Welcome to TDG...

There are a few things you can try to do to help improve mileage with these trucks.

1st...going down the highway...don't go over 2k rpm's. With the 3:73's in the rear...this equates to around 70 mph. That is the sweet spot for these trucks.

2nd...quit using the chemguard additive. If you feel like you need to add something...use some simple 2-cycle oil in the tank. 1oz oil to 1 gallon diesel. You will be surprised at just how much quieter the motor will be...and you should notice a slow improvement in mileage.

3rd...Open up the exhaust...even it it means just straight piping it. It may only result in a .25 to .50 mileage increase...but every little bit helps. Along with the exhaust...open up the intake. If the airraid you added is the flat panel filter that drops in the stock box...upgrade to the conical or open element type. You can do the TYMAR style (big paper filter) for 50 bucks...or spend upwards of 300 bucks for a reusable open element style filter.

4...Make sure the oil clean and of high quality. Our injectors run off of high pressure oil...and I can tell on my truck when my oil begins to get iffy...the truck just starts to run "not right"

Lastly...remember that the 1705 has generic "tunes" or programs loaded into it. It's "one size fits all" but it is generally safe. With a chip...you can have tunes loaded built especially for the "code" that your truck is. (the main computer on these trucks has a code..example PMT1 or PMT2, NVK1, XLE8, etc) Having a program built for your particular code will allow your truck to run at its optimum performance.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-05-2009, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Wow, great response. Thanks, guys!

My friend Kevin had the '01 F-250. He's the one who gave me his Superchip unit. He said he was getting 14 mpg before he chipped it and then it went up to 20-22mpg at 70 per. Like y'all said about the Superchip Tow-Performance setting being the best for fuel economy, that's what he'd set his on.

He also said he used Marvel Mystery Oil in his truck. I notice that when I don't use the Chemsearch Diesel Guard, my initial start-ups are smoky for about 5 seconds. If I can get away from using the Diesel Guard, that would be great because that stuff runs about $88 per gallon, even though it dilutes at 1:128. Two-stroke oil is a lot cheaper. Will the 2-stroke oil make it smoky all the time though (not that I give a darn)?

As for the Air Raid filter, yeah, I made sure to buy the after-market conical kit, not the replacement filter. I think it would help if I did a better job of keeping the darn thing cleaner. Any good, easy way to effectively clean it? I was thinking of using some swimming pool filter cleaner chemical and dunking it, maybe mixing in a little Dawn detergent too.

I think the exhaust is already done but for 0.25-0.50 mpg improvement I don't know if it would be worthwhile to spend the money if it wasn't already done.

Finally, I use nothing but Rotella and change my oil & filter every 3000-4000 miles.

Thanks for all the advice. Keep the suggestions coming.

Mark
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-06-2009, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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D'Oh!

Check this out. I'm glad I saw this just before I plugged in the 1705 to start messing around with my engine.



It reads, "Reprogram PCM." The dealer number is #02501 and it is dated 8/14/00, the same model year as the truck.

My question is, the Superchips manual seems to be adamant that the trucks chip needs to be at stock status before it can be reprogrammed by the Superchips 1705 tuner. Any opinions, folks?

Once again, thank you in advance for all your helpful advice. You guys have been great!

Mark

Last edited by Catch-All; 04-06-2009 at 01:41 PM.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-06-2009, 10:28 PM
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All they did is throw a flash on the factory PCM. Your still good to go. I started out with a superchips, worked great...

Get some gauges in there, at least a pyro, but preferably Pyro, Boost and tranny temp.

Also, once you tune it, forget about your overhead MPG display. Its worthless.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-07-2009, 05:58 AM
 
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Glad

Hey Mark,

I'm glad the gentlemen here are lookin after you!

Had a read of the thread -

Wash the filter - we wash our Toyota one in just warm water and dish washing detergent. It's important we buy the "washable" filter - they are dearer, than the paper element disposable filter, and have a filter medium that doesn't disintregrate when it gets wet.

We blow it out with compressed air before we wash it - then dry it after washing again, with compressed air.

We DON'T put the wet filter back in the truck - I guess we could but we don't - we have 2 washable filters - we put in one that we washed last time that's had a month or three to dry in the garage, and put the wet one up on the shelf to let it dry fully for use next time - we just rotate the 2 filters.

I don't like the idea of a LOT of air under vacuum pressure being sucked thru wet filter medium, in case the medium lets go from the filter and gets sucked thru the turbo & engine.

It's like everything with these trucks (they cost an arm and leg to work on) - IF you have the gear, (i.e. an auto enginuity software program and connector - no change outta about $US700, bye the time you buy the extra non OBD11 compliant vehicle unlock dongle code from auto enginuity to make it work on your F truck) THEN - getting your on board computer "re flashed" (set back to original default settings) costs nothing.

Dealers usually charge a LOT ($75 or so) to do this for you when a fault code comes up on the dash lights....so eventually your software will pay for itself.

It diagnoses any fault while the engine is running, and gives a list of code numbers.

You can download the list of codes numbers and what they mean off the net - put the pages in a folder and keep with the truck - and basically you can then diagnose ANY fault.

BUT - do you want to spend that kinda $ ?

Sadly I did, then when my truck was getting fixed - one of the mechanics stole my connector fitting. I'm now 1000 miles away and have no connector - it turns out the unlock code I bought is stored in the dongle type computer connector that was stolen - so while I still have the software on the laptop....the company can't just sell me a new connector - no, I have to BUY the whole shebang again (with exchange rate - over $1K Australian)!

Anyway a LOT of these guys here probably have the diagnostic software and codes etc and can twist spanners, so they think nothing of putting chips in bye themselves - figuring they can reverse any screwups, at no cost!

You aren't in that position.

You can't "borrow" someone elses diagnostic software and connector coz each one is registered against your vehicles on board computer serial number, and will only work on THEIR vehicle.

Only the dealers have a program designed by Ford to read ALL F trucks...

I reckon - without the computer backup to reset all defaults I'd think twice about adding a 2nd hand chip with no warranty and manual etc - i.e. flying blind.

Also IF the vehicle has any warranty?, you might have to remove the chip before you go back to any dealer for warranty work or they will claim warranty has been breached/voided by the chip. You can't do this without your own software / computer setup.

IF you make friends with one of the GOOD spanner twisters off these forums who lives in your area - MAYBE they can help you to do the chip install?

With the software from auto enginuity - you can monitor your engine as you drive along on your laptop and it will diagnose ANY faults - there are something like 600? sensors in the F trucks that the software reports on - including every globe / light , door switch etc etc etc.

You can clear any fault codes and then see if they re occur.

You can keep records of what work and replacement parts have been used etc.

Its tough to do all this if you haven't got the backup cash when it goes wrong.

Remember - a simple electrical problem with my Injector Control Module up under the Left Hand Fender, took 5 months, 3 repairers and over $6K to fix.

You really wanna screw with that on board computer - going in blind?

If it were me I wouldn't, without experienced help.

Now Marvel Mystery Oil in the truck.

It's great stuff & been around for years and years, was great in old 351 V8 gassers etc.

Probably make a good fuel additive in diesel even now.

I once 'researched" what was actually in it - s'posed to be a great company secret, but the govt requirements for MSD's (Material Safety Data Sheets) means that you can't hide the contents any longer, ANYONE can google MSD for Marvel Mystery Oil and discover the contents these days.

http://www.turtlewax.com/res/msds/MM010-4.pdf

Voila!

Turns out it was a mix of 3 ingredients from memory.

1. Auto Trans fluid (Naphthhenic Hydrocarbons?)
2. Turpentine (or Mineral "Turpentine" spirits ? my memory escapes me now)
3. Chlorinated Parrafin? (Chlorinated Hydrocarbons) - A cutting oil used in the tooling industry which has vary interesting characteristsics in that it is attracted to HEAT source - any bearing or moving part that wears and causes heat, attracts the very slippery Chlor Parrafin too the hot spot - hence why they use it in the tooling industry for lathe cutting etc - the lubricant is attracted to the hot spot and cools/lubricates it to defeat the heat & thus wear).

In this respect it probably out performs Teflon which you often see as an oil additive (and on non stick cooking pans)

Each of the components are cheep as chips but the mixed "mystery snake oil" sold for a fortune amd made a few family fortunes for many many years for the "Mystery" people.

You can BUY each of the components for Marvel Mystery Oil, quite cheap and make your own to add to the fuel.

Personally I wouldn't use it as a sump oil (but many do - its sold commerciallly as "Bitron" - google it up). Gasses of combustion that bypass the rings into the sump are Hydro carbons, and when they react with the Chlorinated Parrafin of the Marvel Mystery Oil, the Result is Hydro Chloric Acid!

This hydro chloric acid, is highly corrosive, and can eat / rust the internals of your engine IMHO.

While the sump oil has either calcium (or now with catalytic converters Molybednum) as a base to neutralise any acids in the oil - the production of Hydrochloric acid in your sump will only exhaust the base thats added to the sump oil - more quickly, meaning no extended oil change intervals etc.

I WOULD consider adding a little Marvel Mystery Oil to my diesel rather than the two stroke oil, If I were you - I don't think it can hurt in small quantities!

Chlorinated parrafin has unique qualities of lubrication that suit it to being added to lubricating oils that are NOT inside an internal combustion engine, - you probably couldn't get a better additive for diffs oils and power steering pump fluids etc etc..

Cheers & good luck with it - keep me posted how you end up.
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Originally Posted by Flywest View Post
(i.e. an auto enginuity software program and connector - no change outta about $US700, bye the time you buy the extra non OBD11 compliant vehicle unlock dongle code from auto enginuity to make it work on your F truck) THEN - getting your on board computer "re flashed" (set back to original default settings) costs nothing.
Why re-flash the comp if it has been updated already by Ford???
The Superchips is universal for 1999 and up 7.3L.

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Originally Posted by Flywest View Post
Hey Mark,

I'm glad the gentlemen here are lookin after you!

Had a read of the thread -

Wash the filter - we wash our Toyota one in just warm water and dish washing detergent. It's important we buy the "washable" filter - they are dearer, than the paper element disposable filter, and have a filter medium that doesn't disintregrate when it gets wet.

We blow it out with compressed air before we wash it - then dry it after washing again, with compressed air.

We DON'T put the wet filter back in the truck - I guess we could but we don't - we have 2 washable filters - we put in one that we washed last time that's had a month or three to dry in the garage, and put the wet one up on the shelf to let it dry fully for use next time - we just rotate the 2 filters.

I don't like the idea of a LOT of air under vacuum pressure being sucked thru wet filter medium, in case the medium lets go from the filter and gets sucked thru the turbo & engine.

It's like everything with these trucks (they cost an arm and leg to work on) - IF you have the gear, (i.e. an auto enginuity software program and connector - no change outta about $US700, bye the time you buy the extra non OBD11 compliant vehicle unlock dongle code from auto enginuity to make it work on your F truck) THEN - getting your on board computer "re flashed" (set back to original default settings) costs nothing.

Dealers usually charge a LOT ($75 or so) to do this for you when a fault code comes up on the dash lights....so eventually your software will pay for itself.

It diagnoses any fault while the engine is running, and gives a list of code numbers.

You can download the list of codes numbers and what they mean off the net - put the pages in a folder and keep with the truck - and basically you can then diagnose ANY fault.

BUT - do you want to spend that kinda $ ?

Sadly I did, then when my truck was getting fixed - one of the mechanics stole my connector fitting. I'm now 1000 miles away and have no connector - it turns out the unlock code I bought is stored in the dongle type computer connector that was stolen - so while I still have the software on the laptop....the company can't just sell me a new connector - no, I have to BUY the whole shebang again (with exchange rate - over $1K Australian)!

Anyway a LOT of these guys here probably have the diagnostic software and codes etc and can twist spanners, so they think nothing of putting chips in bye themselves - figuring they can reverse any screwups, at no cost!

You aren't in that position.

You can't "borrow" someone elses diagnostic software and connector coz each one is registered against your vehicles on board computer serial number, and will only work on THEIR vehicle.

Only the dealers have a program designed by Ford to read ALL F trucks...

I reckon - without the computer backup to reset all defaults I'd think twice about adding a 2nd hand chip with no warranty and manual etc - i.e. flying blind.

Also IF the vehicle has any warranty?, you might have to remove the chip before you go back to any dealer for warranty work or they will claim warranty has been breached/voided by the chip. You can't do this without your own software / computer setup.

IF you make friends with one of the GOOD spanner twisters off these forums who lives in your area - MAYBE they can help you to do the chip install?

With the software from auto enginuity - you can monitor your engine as you drive along on your laptop and it will diagnose ANY faults - there are something like 600? sensors in the F trucks that the software reports on - including every globe / light , door switch etc etc etc.

You can clear any fault codes and then see if they re occur.

You can keep records of what work and replacement parts have been used etc.

Its tough to do all this if you haven't got the backup cash when it goes wrong.

Remember - a simple electrical problem with my Injector Control Module up under the Left Hand Fender, took 5 months, 3 repairers and over $6K to fix.

You really wanna screw with that on board computer - going in blind?

If it were me I wouldn't, without experienced help.

Now Marvel Mystery Oil in the truck.

It's great stuff & been around for years and years, was great in old 351 V8 gassers etc.

Probably make a good fuel additive in diesel even now.

I once 'researched" what was actually in it - s'posed to be a great company secret, but the govt requirements for MSD's (Material Safety Data Sheets) means that you can't hide the contents any longer, ANYONE can google MSD for Marvel Mystery Oil and discover the contents these days.

http://www.turtlewax.com/res/msds/MM010-4.pdf

Voila!

Turns out it was a mix of 3 ingredients from memory.

1. Auto Trans fluid (Naphthhenic Hydrocarbons?)
2. Turpentine (or Mineral "Turpentine" spirits ? my memory escapes me now)
3. Chlorinated Parrafin? (Chlorinated Hydrocarbons) - A cutting oil used in the tooling industry which has vary interesting characteristsics in that it is attracted to HEAT source - any bearing or moving part that wears and causes heat, attracts the very slippery Chlor Parrafin too the hot spot - hence why they use it in the tooling industry for lathe cutting etc - the lubricant is attracted to the hot spot and cools/lubricates it to defeat the heat & thus wear).

In this respect it probably out performs Teflon which you often see as an oil additive (and on non stick cooking pans)

Each of the components are cheep as chips but the mixed "mystery snake oil" sold for a fortune amd made a few family fortunes for many many years for the "Mystery" people.

You can BUY each of the components for Marvel Mystery Oil, quite cheap and make your own to add to the fuel.

Personally I wouldn't use it as a sump oil (but many do - its sold commerciallly as "Bitron" - google it up). Gasses of combustion that bypass the rings into the sump are Hydro carbons, and when they react with the Chlorinated Parrafin of the Marvel Mystery Oil, the Result is Hydro Chloric Acid!

This hydro chloric acid, is highly corrosive, and can eat / rust the internals of your engine IMHO.

While the sump oil has either calcium (or now with catalytic converters Molybednum) as a base to neutralise any acids in the oil - the production of Hydrochloric acid in your sump will only exhaust the base thats added to the sump oil - more quickly, meaning no extended oil change intervals etc.

I WOULD consider adding a little Marvel Mystery Oil to my diesel rather than the two stroke oil, If I were you - I don't think it can hurt in small quantities!

Chlorinated parrafin has unique qualities of lubrication that suit it to being added to lubricating oils that are NOT inside an internal combustion engine, - you probably couldn't get a better additive for diffs oils and power steering pump fluids etc etc..

Cheers & good luck with it - keep me posted how you end up
.
Hummmm ya... ok...

Throw the superchips on there, it is universal to all 7.3 diesels and will not hurt a thing. Your truck was reflashed at some point to a newer PCM family, there is no "tune" on there. Just completely new memory.

AE (autoenginuity) can not reflash the PCM, it can only read and clear codes and run diognostic programs... It does not cost $700, more like $350 with the ford bundle...


Its called a IDM (Injector Drive Module) and if it took you 6k to fix it, find a new dealer... And a superchips or a chip for that matter has 0 to do with the IDM...

01 F-250 SC PSD,210k,16 Isspro Gauges, AFE-2,CCV Mod,IAH delete,map reg,Modded H2e, 6.0 IC, GTS Hybrid injectors, Studs, 910 Valve springs, Forged rods Water injection,Swamps tuned, MBRP 4" dual's, Aero, 6" tip's, 100 axl tank, 4" Revtek lift, 37-14.50-17 TOYO MT's 469hp and 1068tq...

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