Pushrods and springs??? - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Pushrods and springs???

So i need some insight on wat exactlly these will do/help me wit my truck or is it a waste? Im tuned and all emissions are gone will be adding a fuel system and head studs to it before these parts would go in.

Oh they are 110lb springs from hamilton

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 06:11 PM
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I bought factory push rods, they are really good unless you are sled pulling and running 4k+ RPM's all the time. I am also installing the 60lb valve springs.

do you need the 110's from Hamilton? If so, you also need the upgraded reatiners and keepers as well.

What are your plans for the truck?

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 06:31 PM
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I'd just get all the valvetrain stuff from the same place like Hamilton......

-Phil-
98 2500 4x4,12V,47RE Suncoast Billet input shaft, Suncoast H/D Extreme Trans kit, Goerend Triple disc converter, FASS 150/90, FASS Suction tube, Amsoil Ea air and pre-filter, 100 plate, 4K GSK, 370's, AFC Mods, CoolerTubz intake, straight piped 4" DP to 5" stacks, BD-SBS, Autometer Z-series Pyro/Boost/Trans/FP, Amsoil Bypass system and Amsoil fluids bumper to bumper.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the springs
http://www.rollinsmokediesel.com/pd-...t-pressure.cfm

Here are the push rods
http://www.rollinsmokediesel.com/pd-...-push-rods.cfm

the truck could have future pulling so i was just wondering if the springs mean i get a higher rev limiter witout floating the valves or are they going to gain me nothing...

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BUCK2 View Post
I bought factory push rods, they are really good unless you are sled pulling and running 4k+ RPM's all the time. I am also installing the 60lb valve springs.

do you need the 110's from Hamilton? If so, you also need the upgraded reatiners and keepers as well.

What are your plans for the truck?
the truck doesnt need upgraded retainers and keepers to run 110s.

i believe the springs are to help valve float and the push rods just help with the heavier springs.

if it fits in the budget do it. i did a set on a common rail and they arent that bad.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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So basically i will be able to fuel past my current red line where the fuel stops???? Im confused on if it will help any

2011.5 6.7 HO Crew Cab Laramie Dually 4x4 H&S A-1 H11 Studs GDP Pro Gate AFE drop in Isspro EV2 Boost/EBP RDS 90 Aux Tank/Toolbox Combo Reese 20k 5th wheel

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 10:17 PM
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the springs will help with valve float. i dont know how high tuning can spin yours.

Garrett






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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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i dont think i have ever floated the valves that i could hear i just know the dyno guy told me to go from 1500rpm and gave me the kill sign around 3100-3200rpm.

2011.5 6.7 HO Crew Cab Laramie Dually 4x4 H&S A-1 H11 Studs GDP Pro Gate AFE drop in Isspro EV2 Boost/EBP RDS 90 Aux Tank/Toolbox Combo Reese 20k 5th wheel

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 10:27 PM
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how high do you take it on the street? i know the heavier springs can help with higher boost so that the valves dont get blown open.

Garrett






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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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i usually never take it over 3000k kinda scared chit will scatter

2011.5 6.7 HO Crew Cab Laramie Dually 4x4 H&S A-1 H11 Studs GDP Pro Gate AFE drop in Isspro EV2 Boost/EBP RDS 90 Aux Tank/Toolbox Combo Reese 20k 5th wheel

2007 2500 6.7 4x4 Handshaker SOLD



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