Rear main seal - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-22-2013, 04:16 AM Thread Starter
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Rear main seal

I have a 1992 ford F-350 with the 7.3 non-turbo diesel. There is a lot of oil leaking from the flywheel inspection pan. I think it may be the rear main seal anyone have this issue? Also is the seal replaceable without pulling the motor out?
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-22-2013, 12:57 PM
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Either the engine or the trans will have to come out. Trans is easier.You should get a speedi sleve kit when you do the job, as the crank will most likely have a groove in it where the seal lip runs. Also , when you put the flywheel back on, use thread lock , or you will have an even worse oil leak. Just a thought before I go out into the world today---Bob---
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 08:58 PM
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The new seal outer perimeter should also be coated with RTV, I used the grey colored RTV on my 1989 IDI non turbo. been going over a year now and not a drop came out. the engine had over 200,000 miles at the time, there was NO groove on the crankshaft and the new seal did the job without a sleeve. The transmission and the flywheel must be removed to do the job. Or pull the engine. It is easier to line the transmission up to the engine than the engine to the tranny.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 09:29 PM
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I've always pulled them together and replaced the pan gasket, front and rear engine seals, and transmisison front, and rear seal, (if an automatic). The torque converter has no choice but to bear upon the front seal when unbolted from the flywheel/flexplate in an orientation that is not on it's normal plane. Upon reinstallation, there is a good chance it will have a short lifespan before starting to leak if not replaced.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 11:27 PM
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It's a good idea to replace the front pump seal while the trans is out, but not for the reason of the torque converter "hanging on it". If the convertor is in all the way, a little pressure on the seal is minimal. Not worth much; just MHO.---Bob (every thing else is good) Backslap, you didn't really think you could get away with a suggestion without someone trying to change it a little, did you?. Your turn...
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by broncobob View Post
It's a good idea to replace the front pump seal while the trans is out, but not for the reason of the torque converter "hanging on it". If the convertor is in all the way, a little pressure on the seal is minimal. Not worth much; just MHO.---Bob (every thing else is good) Backslap, you didn't really think you could get away with a suggestion without someone trying to change it a little, did you?. Your turn...
Disturbing the mounting orientation actually does shorten the lifespan of any existing seal so I have to stand behind my claim. I will never make a claim if I don't believe it. The cycles of hot and cold, along with starting and stopping, alter the molecular composition of the seal and the ability to do it's job. Any high mileage transmission has front bushing wear in the oil pump. This wear, (no matter how minute) is there and coupled with attempting to reuse an existing oil seal is taking an unnecessary chance so best to mitigate the circumstance for under $10.00 using a new seal at the front.

A good quality single lip oil seal with a garter spring is looking for no more than .003 clearance or concentricy to the oil sealing surface. A double lip seal with a garter spring looks for nor more than .0125 to perform the same function, (dependent on size). As they age the ability to remain supple decreases and this is why they really need replaced any time they are disturbed.

Of course I could be nuts too......

Touche'
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 02:45 AM Thread Starter
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My truck has nearly 250,000 on it. I would not replace the oil seal on the engine without replacing both the front and rear seals on the trans especially if the tranny has to come out anyway to do the job. I am always aware of seal failure and it just makes good sense to prevent future issues.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Spanky636569 View Post
My truck has nearly 250,000 on it. I would not replace the oil seal on the engine without replacing both the front and rear seals on the trans especially if the tranny has to come out anyway to do the job. I am always aware of seal failure and it just makes good sense to prevent future issues.
Sure is cheap insurance eh?

Get your steering issues ironed out?
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 03:00 AM Thread Starter
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Yes I got the steering issues resolved. I had to replace both the steering gearbox and the power steering pump. Now i am having an issue with the brakes. I replaced both calipers, both rear wheel cylinders, both rear brake lines, the master cylinder, and the vacuum booster. Now when I hit the brake pedal sometimes it is like stepping on a brick other times the brakes work fine. I am going to pull a 30' fifth wheel trailer with it on may 3rd and need to figure this brake issue out before then. Yea cheap insurance is right.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 03:16 AM
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Yes I got the steering issues resolved. I had to replace both the steering gearbox and the power steering pump. Now i am having an issue with the brakes. I replaced both calipers, both rear wheel cylinders, both rear brake lines, the master cylinder, and the vacuum booster. Now when I hit the brake pedal sometimes it is like stepping on a brick other times the brakes work fine. I am going to pull a 30' fifth wheel trailer with it on may 3rd and need to figure this brake issue out before then. Yea cheap insurance is right.
Usually a "brick" for a brake pedal but the brakes still function is the booster being defective. Are your front, and rear brakes working equally? Have you checked, or replaced the check valve in the hose leading to the vacume booster? Ensure the hose is not collapsing internally also. When the pedal is extremely hard to push down, try to lock the wheels in a parking lot to ensure all four corners are operational.

I've seen several of the check valves stuck and will not allow vacume to build in the booster through the years although not necessassarily in your application.
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