Ball joint time - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-02-2011, 05:14 AM Thread Starter
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Ball joint time

So its time to do the ball joints in my X . My questions are type and or brands of ball joints, what else should I do, and what ball joint removal tool does everyone recommend. I have already found a pneumatic pickle fork set, now I just need the tool. Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Jason




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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-02-2011, 05:56 AM
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for the price autozone can't be beat. free life time replacement, too. harbor freight has the tool for you. I have been using it for years. I have been using the 3 in 1 set. they didn't the 4x4 kit at the time I bought mine.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot.../steering.html
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-02-2011, 08:11 AM
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+1 on the durlast / autozone's, you cant beat the lifetime warranty or the availability.
moog & spicer are others - which generally cost more and provide no warranty.

powerstrokeshop provides a lifetime warranty kit that includes all the seals & o-rings,
but the kit is more expensive than you can obtain the parts for locally (ill go out on a
limb and say autozone is more likely to survive any economic crisis) - but powerstrokeshop is
not in every town (like autozone).

its diffecult to warranty a product that needs to be removed, returned and validated
prior to recv'ing "free" replacements.

autozone is in just about every town and will warranty. Just bring the old ones in for
exchange (i "buy" the replacements so i can knock the job(s) out and then return
the bad part for credit - rather than make a trip to the store while my vehicles are
on jack stands)

autozone will even LOAN you the tools for the job for free !

you need to replace the (yellow) hub o-rings as well as the axle/hub vac. seal
when you do this job - too often the axle seal is not replaced (while your there)
and folks develop 4x4 hub engagement problems (which means you have to tear
the entire thing down again to replace the hub vac. seal.

you can get the hub seals at most autoparts stores (i had to get mine at O'Reilly's )
yellow hub o-rings are available at the dealer (iirc 5-10 bucks per side).
there is no need, generally, to replace the LOOSE fitting DUST shield/seal - unless
yours i missing or torn - this "seal" is VERY LOOSE fitting (apparently by design).

Don R.

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Last edited by bushpilot; 01-02-2011 at 08:14 AM.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-02-2011, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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How long do the ball joints form autozone last? Cheap is nice but I don't want to do this job every year.

Jason




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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-02-2011, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdydiesel View Post
How long do the ball joints form autozone last? Cheap is nice but I don't want to do this job every year.
ive had my durlast/autozones on for over 75k miles....and theyre
GREASE-ABLE (too bad ford didnt install those to begin w/)....dont
confuse LESS expensive w/ LOW QUALITY.

my OE ford balljoints were shot w/in the 1st 35k miles....

along w/ those factory shots that they try to pass off as rancho's (they
are NOTHING more than oe POS shocks, painted white, w/ a sticker and
a HARD bit of red plastic (that doesnt seal anything out))

Don R.

'04 350 4WD Lariat Crew Longbed (built 05.04)
-------------------

-------------------

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135 Amp Alternator Upgrade/Replacement
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$10 Grill Mod. (protects the coolers) !

Block Heater Cord (Rear Mounted w/ Timer) - LINK

REALTIME -CURRENT DIESEL Pricing <HERE>
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-02-2011, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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I agree with you on the shocks. They are Monroe shocks that have been branded Rancho. My ball joints have lasted 142K on my X. They are not bad yet, but all the bushings in the front end are. So I am just doing it all at once. I want another 142K out of what ever I put in there. But If you have 75K on them then you are at least have way there.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 04:06 AM
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I vote for Moogs. I got the kit from Powerstroke Shop, which includes all seals for the 4x4 and such. Get the ball joint press, it's available on loan from any auto parts store, it looks like a big C clamp. You're also going to need to borrow/rent/make an axle seal tool. I know my local dealer loans them out if you ask the parts department nicely.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-03-2011, 06:02 AM
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nothin' wrong w/ moogs, pricier but good - probably make the duralasts too
from what i can tell ! you can SOURCE the parts locally cheaper and you wont
have to worry about mail-away warranty if you do !

Don R.

'04 350 4WD Lariat Crew Longbed (built 05.04)
-------------------

-------------------

Gear Vendors Dbl Overdrive Install w/ Pics.
135 Amp Alternator Upgrade/Replacement
50 Gal. Aux Tank; Pump, Filter, Wiring
Truck Audio,
CUSTOM Valentine One Install - LINK
$10 Grill Mod. (protects the coolers) !

Block Heater Cord (Rear Mounted w/ Timer) - LINK

REALTIME -CURRENT DIESEL Pricing <HERE>
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-12-2011, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bushpilot View Post
nothin' wrong w/ moogs, pricier but good - probably make the duralasts too
from what i can tell ! you can SOURCE the parts locally cheaper and you wont
have to worry about mail-away warranty if you do !
What i have seem wrong with moog lately is the "Made in China" stamped on them,




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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-13-2011, 01:56 AM
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youcan request the USA made (moogs) from napa, I have a makeshift axle seal tool out of pvc I used on mine if your ford wont lend theres out (most case's) My ford showed me theres and then I bought some pvc bushings and sanded down the edges till I had the basic shape down. Let me know...

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Last edited by Trip; 01-13-2011 at 01:59 AM.
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