door catch on driver's side RATTLING - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-24-2009, 04:50 AM Thread Starter
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Question door catch on driver's side RATTLING

well the catch on the middle of the suicide door on the driver's side where the front door latches is rattling a lot. i can hear right in my ear when driving down the street. the torx head bolts are tight but it seems like what its connected to is moving around inside the door. has anyone else experienced this or have any fixes for it? also i did the door seal mod with the 3/8 tubing

2000 F250 ext cab, 4x4, AFE Stage II, Warn Premium Locking Hubs, MBRP 4" Turbo Back, 3 Gauge Pillar (Turbo, Pyro, Trans), Racor CCV Filter, AIH Delete With Code Fooler, Wicked Wheel, Oil Crossover Line, Coolant Filter, 203* Thermostat, Stancor GPR, Under Hood Fuel Pressure Gauge, DB Starter, ITP In-Tank Mod, Peripheral Ipod Direct Connect

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-24-2009, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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anybody? this thing is driving me nuts

2000 F250 ext cab, 4x4, AFE Stage II, Warn Premium Locking Hubs, MBRP 4" Turbo Back, 3 Gauge Pillar (Turbo, Pyro, Trans), Racor CCV Filter, AIH Delete With Code Fooler, Wicked Wheel, Oil Crossover Line, Coolant Filter, 203* Thermostat, Stancor GPR, Under Hood Fuel Pressure Gauge, DB Starter, ITP In-Tank Mod, Peripheral Ipod Direct Connect

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-24-2009, 06:55 PM
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my passenger side door is doing the same thing. i was going to do the door seal mod in hopes of solving it, guess i won't bother.

tagging along...

2010 F250 6.4 - Stock

SOLD 2001 F250 7.3 Platinum Edition
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-24-2009, 10:02 PM
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maybe pull the door panel and take a look, i have had so many door panels off i cant remember what these look like, but some of them are threaded metal clips that snap into the the door skin. and i have seen loose clips. i usually just stuff a piece of foam tape or something in between the clip and door skin to eliminate the rattle.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-24-2009, 11:41 PM
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Look at the bottom of the door... I betcha that spot weld has broken. I riveted mine back together. Used a bunch. It still rattles on rough roads, but isn't heard during normal driving like it was.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-24-2009, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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good call zaairman, the spot weld is busted off, if only i still had a welder. seems like it will keep down most of the sound if i get a little spot weld in there. while holding it and moving around the catch its still a slight ping, seems like it'll be better though

2000 F250 ext cab, 4x4, AFE Stage II, Warn Premium Locking Hubs, MBRP 4" Turbo Back, 3 Gauge Pillar (Turbo, Pyro, Trans), Racor CCV Filter, AIH Delete With Code Fooler, Wicked Wheel, Oil Crossover Line, Coolant Filter, 203* Thermostat, Stancor GPR, Under Hood Fuel Pressure Gauge, DB Starter, ITP In-Tank Mod, Peripheral Ipod Direct Connect

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-24-2009, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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oh i just reread that, rivets, that'll work

2000 F250 ext cab, 4x4, AFE Stage II, Warn Premium Locking Hubs, MBRP 4" Turbo Back, 3 Gauge Pillar (Turbo, Pyro, Trans), Racor CCV Filter, AIH Delete With Code Fooler, Wicked Wheel, Oil Crossover Line, Coolant Filter, 203* Thermostat, Stancor GPR, Under Hood Fuel Pressure Gauge, DB Starter, ITP In-Tank Mod, Peripheral Ipod Direct Connect

Chip and a valve body in the overtime funded near future
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-25-2009, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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just got some rivets in there, looks like that will bring the noise WAY down, pretty psyched right now

2000 F250 ext cab, 4x4, AFE Stage II, Warn Premium Locking Hubs, MBRP 4" Turbo Back, 3 Gauge Pillar (Turbo, Pyro, Trans), Racor CCV Filter, AIH Delete With Code Fooler, Wicked Wheel, Oil Crossover Line, Coolant Filter, 203* Thermostat, Stancor GPR, Under Hood Fuel Pressure Gauge, DB Starter, ITP In-Tank Mod, Peripheral Ipod Direct Connect

Chip and a valve body in the overtime funded near future
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