Fluidampr Install on 6.0 - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-18-2006, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Fluidampr Install on 6.0

Tools Needed:

Adjustable Wrench
Pliers
¾” wrench
5/16” socket
9/32” socket
15mm socket
18mm socket
(4) Crank bolts (these are torque to yield and only suppose to use them once) Ford Part # W300024

First you need to drain out some of your coolant so that when you remove the top radiator hose, you don’t have coolant going everywhere. Use a ¾” wrench and loosen the plug on the bottom of the radiator (ds)
https://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...1&d=1159970779


Drain out about a gallon of coolant should be enough. Then you can remove the lines running from the degas bottle and the top radiator hose and get them out of the way so that you will be able to pull the shroud & fan out. You might need to loosen the bolts to the radiator support (I did this but I don’t think it is necessary)
Next you will use the 5/16” socket to remove 2 bolts on the top of the shroud. Once they are removed you will be able to pull the shroud straight up and it will slide right out of there.
https://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...2&d=1159970779


Next you will need to remove 4 15mm bolts that hold the back part of the shroud to the front of the motor. There are 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. Here is what the ones on bottom look like
https://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...3&d=1159970792

Use the adjustable wrench to hold the spacer (only on bottom bolts) to keep from breaking the plastic tab. After you remove all of these you need to unplug the connection on top of the shroud and move it out of the way. Then you can pull the shroud forward and get a fan clutch wrench in there to loosen the fan. After you break it loose you can just spin the fan counter clockwise to remove it completely. Next just take a ½” breaker bar and use it to loosen the tensioner so that you can remove the belt. (push towards the d/s)

https://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...4&d=1159970792


Next you will need an 18mm to remove the four bolts on the stock dampner. Install the new fluidampr and torque the bolts to 50 lbs + ¼ turn. Now just reinstall the belt (it can be done with fluidampr already installed) and reinstall everything else the way you took it off.

If you have any questions just let me know...:Thumbup:

Aaron - 2004 F350 "Offroad Edition"

2003 F250 "Pulling Truck"
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 07:54 PM
 
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(4) Crank bolts (these are torque to yield and only suppose to use them once) Part # W300024
these areford parts or fluidamper parts
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-15-2006, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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It is a Ford part number so I edited the post so everyon would know...

Aaron - 2004 F350 "Offroad Edition"

2003 F250 "Pulling Truck"
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 12:47 AM
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HH what benefits have you noticed since you installed the damper? Does the engine run 50% smooother or closer to 100% smoother at idle. Also does it help take away any of the droone through the exhaust system at highway speeds possibly?

2006 F250 XLT 6.0 CC Shortbed auto with Leer cap and fire engine red. Stock everything but running a
SCT Xcal2 tuned by Innovative Diesel. :smoke
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-16-2006, 02:04 AM Thread Starter
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it does run somewhat smoother and it took all the chatter out that I had from my southbend clutch. The drone is still there when you get up around 80 though.

Aaron - 2004 F350 "Offroad Edition"

2003 F250 "Pulling Truck"
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