5" Straight Pipe on 7.3 - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-09-2007, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
 
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5" Straight Pipe on 7.3

5" Straight Pipe Install


Tools Needed: Reciprocating Saw, Big pair of Pliars, WD40 PB Blaster or some kind of lube, Flat head screwdriver, 1/4" drive 7/16" deep well socket, any size deep well 9/16" socket, eye protection

Also if you have a friend, it will help.

1. Check the kit you ordered and inventory everything and make sure there is no damage to any of your pieces. Once you are sure you have all your parts, you are ready to go.



2. Take your lube, I used PB Blaster, and spray all of your hangers. Be sure and get good coverage on the rubber and the metal that goes into the rubber. This will make getting your exhaust off the hangers much easier. Then take your big pliars and push the metal hanger out of the rubber. You will reuse the rubber in your hangers, so try to not tear them up.



3. Wear your eye protection here. Take you saw and make two cuts in your factory exhaust. You will want to make your first cut at the bend in the down pipe, and your second cut at the back end of your muffler. This step maybe needed to be modified depending on your application and truck configuration. Pull out the old exhaust.



4. Now, go up top and locate the top of the down pipe coming off the backside of the turbo housing. You will see a gold V-Clamp holding the two pieces together. Take your 7/16" deep well socket and back the nut off the clamp. Don't take it all the way off so you don't loose your nut. Once it is loose, take the "T end" of the bolt out of the clamp. Now your clamp should be loose. There are three sections in the v-band, be very careful not to mess this up because you will reuse the clamp. Take your flat head screwdriver and place it inbetween the clamp and the turbo housing. Gently work it back and forth until the clamp comes loose. You will have to free each section. Once the clamp is loose, the down pipe will just fall out. If it does not fall out, the two pieces may have partially welded them selves together. It make take a little persuasion. If this method is required, strike the bottom of the down pipe to break the down pipe loose. Do not hit the top by the turbo housing so you do not damage the turbo housing. This step will take the longest and will be the most aggravating, but stick with it and you will get through it.



This is a picture of the v-band clamp off the truck



5. Now its time to put in the new stuff. Have your buddy get under the truck and work the new down pipe up to the turbo so you can put your v-band clamp back in place. Once you get the flange lined up with the turbo housing, put the clamp around both sections and tighten it up. Make sure you have good clearance on either side and no play in your down pipe. Now you are ready to start laying pipe.



6. Now get your pipe layed out so you can start putting them in. You should have hangers and clamps. Start putting in the pipe and put a clamp at each connection and a clamp where your factory hangers are. On the shorter trucks, you may need to cut down one section of extension pipe. As, most of these kits are made for the CC long box trucks. Some modification maybe required.





7. Once you have all your pipe, clamps, and hangers sitting about where they should be, make final adjustments. Start at the front of your truck and start tightening your clamps and hangers. Work your way to the back. Make sure everything still has the clearence it needs and nothing in the rear end is going to rub. Once you get to the back piece, make sure the tailpipe is level and sitting where it should before you tighten it up.



8. Now fire it up and take it out and terrorize the neighbor hood. A few days after the install, it is good to recheck all your fittings and make sure nothing has moved.



Let me know if I left anything out or need to change anything.

Total time was about an hour and a half, I had alot of interruptions, so it took longer. Thev-band on mine was on the backside, so I had a time getting to it, but the fit with that big ol pipe was very good. And I had it up on a lift, so it was a little easier. I was going solo until I started putting pipe back in. Not too bad though.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-15-2007, 04:10 AM
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Is this home made?

09 F250 Crew Cab FX4
5% tint 35% whole windshield w/5% brow
4" lift
35X12.50R20 Toyo
Under cab Lights
Bed Lights
5" Flow Pro No Muffin W/6" tip
Spartan 310
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-15-2007, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Nope, it is from a Guy that sells them in North Carolina. If you want some more info on it, shoot me a PM.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-20-2007, 03:02 PM
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sounds like a pretty easy going deal. how is the install compaired to the OBS i assume its not that much different
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-21-2007, 12:46 AM
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thats what i got! Very easy install, nice price too! :Thumbup:

2014 T800W 600hpISX15 18spd yanking a 2003 XL specialized 110HD with the cheater neck.

93 peterbilt 379ex hood. 3046B 18spd (in time out, broken crankshaft)

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-11-2007, 08:01 PM
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Send me a pm about the 5 inch exhaust source.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-23-2007, 01:35 AM
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Did you have to put a dent in the exhaust to clear the crossmember?

2000 F-250 PSD Extended Cab Short Bed
-AutoMeter Gauges;Pyro, Tranny, Boost, Rear Diff, Fuel Pres, Air Pres.
-MBRP Turbo back, muffler delete
-AFE Stage II
-ITP Oil HPX Line
-CCV Mod
-AIH Delete

Trail rig: 1990 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0 I6, NP231 w/ SYE, Clayton Off road Long arm Suspension with coil conversion in rear, Full width Dana 44 up front(ARB, Warn Hubs and US Alloys Chromoly Axle shafts), full width Dana 60 in rear with Spool. 4.88 Gears all around, 36 inch Interco Bias Irok's, and lots of trail damage. :
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 06:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TowRig
Did you have to put a dent in the exhaust to clear the crossmember?

Nope, it came ready to clear the cross member.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 06:32 AM
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Meaning what? It already had a dent in it or it cleared the cross member?

AJ

2000 F-250 PSD Extended Cab Short Bed
-AutoMeter Gauges;Pyro, Tranny, Boost, Rear Diff, Fuel Pres, Air Pres.
-MBRP Turbo back, muffler delete
-AFE Stage II
-ITP Oil HPX Line
-CCV Mod
-AIH Delete

Trail rig: 1990 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0 I6, NP231 w/ SYE, Clayton Off road Long arm Suspension with coil conversion in rear, Full width Dana 44 up front(ARB, Warn Hubs and US Alloys Chromoly Axle shafts), full width Dana 60 in rear with Spool. 4.88 Gears all around, 36 inch Interco Bias Irok's, and lots of trail damage. :
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