6.0L Fuel System Install - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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6.0L Fuel System Install

1. To be safe you should disconnect both batteries.
2. Remove air box and all tubing all the way up to the turbo.
3. Remove driver side intercooler pipe.
4. If you want to remove the factory fuel line running to the passenger side in 1 piece you will have to remove the fan and fan shroud. You can look here to see how to do that.

Next you will need to remove the factory fuel line running to the front of the driver side and replace it w/ the shortest line in the kit. Install one of the 90 fittings on the front of the head where the banjo bolt was and on the fuel regulator. Go ahead and tighten the fitting up before you install the line. The elbow swivels so you can move it around later depending on where you need it.

Next remove the line running to the passenger side head and install the other 90 fittings in the front of the head and one on the regulator. To remove the factory line you either have to pull the fan and shroud to get it out in one piece or manage to cut it in half or break it somehow. You have to remove this bolt also to release the line.


I was VERY careful and just stuck my dremel back in there and cut the line in half AFTER i was sure all the fuel was out of the line. I started out running this line (22" line) from the passenger side and slid it under the alternator and then over to the factory regulator and straight down to the front of the fitting that you installed in the head.

Next you can go ahead and put the other the fittings into the regulator and tighten them up as much as you can w/ your hand and go ahead and mount the regulator onto the alternator bracket.

Next you will need to install the banjo bolts that you got into the rear of the heads. You will be using the longest line from the drivers side to the new regulator. After I removed the 6mm plugs in the rear of the heads I figured out how I was going to run the line and ran it so that it would sorta hold its self in place. I used the 45 elbow to run to the drivers side. I laid it down in the valley underneath where the air intake tubing goes back to the rear of the motor and then dropped it down between the exhaust shielding and the motor. The Passenger side one I just ran from the regulator and brought it around over the intercooler piping and right down to the back of the head (this one is really easy to route and have no problems) You can take a look at this thread to see how to go about attaching the lines to the rear of the head.

Now run your last line that you have from the bottom of the new regulator and attach it to the factory return line w/ the fitting that you should have left. At this point make sure and tighten up all fittings and lines. When you tighten the nuts on the regulator the o-ring will make the sill. Then you can start the truck and make sure you have no leaks...

Reinstall all the factory parts at this points and set your regulator at 55 psi at idle. You can run a boost line from the fitting on the right side of the regulator to the map line or your intake elbow. You will need to get all these fittings yourself though.

Here is a pic w/ the regulator mounted and the pressure gauge

Here is a pic of the factory filter/regulator w/ the fittings installed


I meant to take more pics but was in a hurry and didn't get all of that I wanted to. If you want more let me know and I will get all that I can.

Aaron - 2004 F350 "Offroad Edition"

2003 F250 "Pulling Truck"
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-05-2007, 11:02 PM
 
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I want the pics from you putting the new lines on the back of the heads.

Josh Davis
32 Lugnuts, 4 gallons of rotella Syn, 5 gallons of coolant, Two Heads, 8 Pistons, 7 U-Joints, 8 Injectors and some exhaust.
You know you are doing something right when the Ford dealers call you for parts.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-07-2007, 12:46 AM
 
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thank"s for writing the how to Aaron i know it's just simple instructions but you took the time to do it. thumbs up to you,you the man:Thumbup: :Thumbup: :Thumbup: :Thumbup: :Thumbup: :Thumbup:
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-09-2007, 08:14 AM
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thank you for the instruction page
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-09-2007, 06:08 PM
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thanks for the how to. i just purchased this the other day along with some other goodies like arp head studs and fluidampr. this little reading got me excited again. hopefully the stuff will be coming by the end of the week:

04 F350 POWER-SMOKE 6.0
SCT Tuned by Innovative, Gauges- Ultralights, Zoodad Mod, Harpooned, Coolant Filter, 4" banks Exhaust, LIPD Fuel System, ARP Headstuds, Fluidampr,MORE TO COME.............................:Thumbup:
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-10-2007, 12:52 AM
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Hmm i could have packed it this afternoon... but you will just haveto wait and see
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-10-2007, 01:31 PM
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NICE I CANT WAIT!! : :Thumbup:

04 F350 POWER-SMOKE 6.0
SCT Tuned by Innovative, Gauges- Ultralights, Zoodad Mod, Harpooned, Coolant Filter, 4" banks Exhaust, LIPD Fuel System, ARP Headstuds, Fluidampr,MORE TO COME.............................:Thumbup:
Other Toys
-1986 Jeep CJ-7 Trail machine
-Built By me! (Fine Tuning Stage)

Hello my name is_______ and im a dieselholic
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-10-2007, 02:31 PM
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If you have the cross over line already installed do you replace it with different lines?

Marc

07 F250 6.0L CC 4x4
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-10-2007, 04:01 PM
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the full return regulated system replaces the cross over line but we have the big line kit which uses the cross over kit and replaces the front banjo line on the truck with bigger -6 lines. if you already have the crossover line we can up grade you tot the big line kit for the price difference
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