custom regulated return - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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custom regulated return

I spent alot of time trying to figure out what i needed to make a custom regulated return system, so here you go. building a regulated return this way is NOT any cheaper, i just think it looks much better and lines are routed much cleaner.


Here is what i used from jegs:


1 -Pro-Flo 200 Series Braided Hose-6 AN
6' length
Part Number # 555-100911

3 -6AN to 12mm x 1.5 Adapter
Part Number # 361-9919DFG

4 -Straight -6AN Swivel-Seal Fitting
Part Number # 361-800106

2 -45 -6AN Swivel-Seal Fitting
Part Number # 361-804606

4 -90 -6AN Swivel-Seal Fitting
Part Number # 361-809106

1 -Fuel Pressure Gauge0-100psi
Part Number # 027-15633

1 -A1000 -6 Injected Bypass Regulator30 to 70 PSI
Part Number # 027-13109

2 -90 Male -6 AN-to-Male Swivel 12mm x 1.5
Part Number # 361-949092

3 -Radiused Pump Fitting-6AN Port to -6AN Hose
Part Number # 555-100160

Subtotal: $422.79


Trusted performance hard lines worked extremely well to fit the tight area behind the heads to bring the fuel up. they come in the TP crossover kit, or u can call Trusted directly and you can get the hard lines only for around $215 or so


full system was around $650 to put together
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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Most of parts laid out, minus trusted performance lines
(dont worry about the heads on the concrete... already cracked )


pic of finished system

The trusted lines follow right along the top of the intake manifold coming up from the back on either side

passenger side


driver side (you can see the line if you look closely, it is under the wiring harness)
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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closer view of how lines are routed


as far as the regulator setup goes, use a 45 on each side and a 90 out the bottom.

the line coming out the right of the regulator is the fuel coming from the back of the drivers side head. the line is routed out off the regulator under the fuel filter and straight back along the manifold to the hard line with a straight connector

the 45 on the left of the regulator is the fuel coming from the back of the passenger side head and goes right down to to manifold and also follows straight back and connects to the hard line with a straight connector.

the fuel then comes out from the bottom of the regulator with a 90 swivel connecting to another 90 on the stock regulator (modifications to that will be shown next) ...this is only like a 4 or 5 inch line.

regulator modding:

if you dont have machining experience this can be skipped and an adaptor can be used and the line connected straight to the return line (although i think this looks much better)

the regulator housing (top left) was drilled and tapped for one of the 12mm to 6an fittings. the hole was drilled directly opposite of the stock line for the fuel to flow straight through. when doing it this way the stock regulator must be blocked so it cant open. this can be done extremely simple by putting a .125" thick by .5" o-ring on top of it. just put the regulator spring right through the hole of the o-ring and put the cover back on, this will compress the o-ring and keep the plunger from opening.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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Next is the supply lines to the heads. the bottom port on the filter housing toward the front of the truck is the supply to the front of the passenger head. this line runs through the opening in the manifold under the alternator directly down to the front of the head.

then the middle fitting on the rear of the housing is the supply line to the front of the drivers head. this line will come off the head and go directly to the right (from standing in front of the truck) and then make a loop, as short as possible is best, to the 90 swivel on the filter housing

both will use a 90 swivel onto a 12mm to 6an adaptor to the housing. along with both having a straight connector on the other end along with the 90 degree 6an to 12mm adapter.

drivers head fuel supply


passenger side supply can be seen towards the bottom left
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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some more random pics to help see the setup








This is my first how to post, hopefully its easy enough to understand.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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I forgot to mention that i have an EGR delete, therefore no EGR solenoid. regulator is placed where solenoid used to be... not too sure if this will fit with solenoid still there.

This way did work out extremely well otherwise. I only used about 5' of line and there is no lines over the motor or routed around anything. they are all a direct shot and fit really nice and clean and mostly out of view. hope this helps!
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-14-2009, 04:41 AM
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hmm, not bad. looks good.

Garrett






BRING BACK THE OLD TDG!
oh well, i have a map to the darkside

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-14-2009, 03:35 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaskin2-6.0 View Post
I forgot to mention that i have an EGR delete, therefore no EGR solenoid. regulator is placed where solenoid used to be... not too sure if this will fit with solenoid still there.

This way did work out extremely well otherwise. I only used about 5' of line and there is no lines over the motor or routed around anything. they are all a direct shot and fit really nice and clean and mostly out of view. hope this helps!

yep, answered my questions about what to do with the stock regulator.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-14-2009, 04:37 PM
 
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does that heat tape on your exhaust pieces work pretty good?

also, any reason you couldn't use an in-cab electric fuel pressure gauge instead.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-14-2009, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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i have no idea if the header wrap did anything or not, when i tore the truck down i did everything at once... injectors, regulated return, wrap, egr delete, etc.

I will still be using an electric in cab gauge (havent gotten gauges yet), but the gauge on the regulator is just for adjusting what it regulates at. that gauge can be put in to adjust and then be taken out and replaced with the plug again if u really wanted.

the electric gauge sending unit will be put in the test port on the filter housing
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