2003 Ford F250 4x4 balljoints - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-27-2008, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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2003 Ford F250 4x4 balljoints

Ball Joint: Service and Repair
- Upper

Removal
1. Remove the wheel knuckle.
2. Place the wheel knuckle into a suitable vise.
3. NOTE: Always remove the lower ball joint first.
Remove the lower ball Joint.
4. Using the special tools, remove the ball joint.

Installation

1. Clean the wheel knuckle ball Joint bores.(sand lightly if needed
2. install the ball joint.(do not beat with hammer)
3. Install the lower ball Joint.
4. Install the wheel knuckle.

Ball Joint: Service and Repair
- Lower
Removal
1. Remove the wheel knuckle.
2. Place the wheel knuckle into a suitable vise.
3. If equipped, remove the ball joint grease fitting.
4. Remove the snap ring.(small punches work at times)
5. remove the ball joint.(again hammers, clamps ect can be used)

Installation
1. Clean the wheel knuckle ball joint bore.
2. install the ball joint.(again to not beat in)
3. Install the snap ring.
4.Install grease fitting-Caution: Do not over tighten the ball joint grease fitting.
5. Install the wheel knuckle.



Steering Knuckle: Service and Repair
Removal
1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.
2. Remove the front brake disc. See: Brakes and Traction Control/Disc Brake System/Brake Rotor/Disc/Service and Repair
3. Remove the wheel hub and bearing. See: Wheel Hub/Service and Repair
4. Using a drift, drive the axle shaft main seal out of the wheel knuckle.
5. Remove the axle shaft and main seal.
6. Remove the tie-rod end castellated nut.
*1. Remove the cotter pin.
*2. Remove the castellated nut.
7. Using the special tool, disconnect the tie-rod end from the wheel knuckle.
8. Remove the upper ball joint castellated nut and the insert.
*1. Remove the cotter pin.
*2. Remove the nut.
*3. Remove the insert.
9. Remove the wheel knuckle.
*1. Remove the lower ball joint nut.
*2. Remove the knuckle.
10. Clean and inspect the wheel knuckle ball joint bores.

Installation
1. Position the wheel knuckle onto the axle housing.
2. Install the nut onto the lower ball joint. Do not tighten the nut at this time.
3. Install the insert and the castellated nut onto the upper ball joint. Do not tighten the nut at this time.
4. Tighten the lower ball joint retaining nut. Pre-tighten the nut to 64 Nm (47 lb-ft).
5. NOTE: Do not loosen the castellated nut to install the cotter pin.
Install the cotter pin into the upper ball joint.
*1. Tighten the upper ball joint castellated nut.
*2. Install the cotter pin. If necessary, tighten the castellated nut until the cotter pin can be installed.
6. Tighten the lower ball joint nut to 204 Nm (150 lb-ft).
7. Install the tie-rod end onto the wheel knuckle.
*1. Position the tie-rod end into the wheel knuckle.
*2. Install and tighten the castellated nut.
*3. Install the cotter pin.
8. Install the new main seal onto the axle shaft.
*1. Position the main seal onto the axle shaft.
*2. Using tools and a hammer, seat the main seal onto the axle shaft.
9. Position the axle shaft into the axle housing.
10. Using tools and a hammer, install the main seal into the wheel knuckle.
11. Install the wheel hub and bearing. See: Wheel Hub/Service and Repair
12. Install the front brake disc. See: Brakes and Traction Control/Disc Brake System/Brake Rotor/Disc/Service and Repair

Note: inner dust seal, hub vacuum seal and the associated o-rings
should be replaced when doing the ball joints (on 4x4's)

*Ball joint press is the only special tool that is needed
*Axel seal tool would make it easier or you can make on.




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Last edited by Bcarriveau; 12-28-2008 at 10:46 PM.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-27-2008, 11:38 PM
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what special tools are needed?

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-28-2008, 03:28 PM
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ball joint press is the only special tool that is needed.

Aaron - 2004 F350 "Offroad Edition"

2003 F250 "Pulling Truck"
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-28-2008, 05:03 PM
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ball joint press eh? that works on a hydraulic press?

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-28-2008, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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No its like a big c clamp




Bill Carriveau OFFICIAL POO HAULER

ARP studs, sct, Leveling kit,Airdog set at 62psi with no factory pump, leveling kit,5" stacks, under cab lights, Large in the way Fan shroud Removed, bed Lights being Re-did. Large Alternator(250amps)(130 amps was so 2003). On 3rd set of Hgs(soon to be 4th), 2nd set of heads, 2nd tubro, egr cooler, FICM and more. When i Turn the Key it does return a Favor, not always in MY Favor.
Da Rules..Here
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-28-2008, 08:14 PM
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A WIDE pickle fork works well to pop the knuckle free from the axletube yoke--the smaller size from most parts shops isn't big enough.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-28-2008, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bcarriveau View Post
No its like a big c clamp
A strong 1/2" impact is your friend when using that style of press. I suppose a 1/2" ratchet would work but the impact made things sooooo much easier when I changed mine that even if I had to buy (vs. borrow) it, it would have been worth it.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-28-2008, 09:11 PM
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Don't forget the axle seal tool...

Zach
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-28-2008, 09:20 PM
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you didnt mention that the inner dust seal, hub vacuum seal and the associated o-rings
should be replaced when doing the ball joints (on 4x4's)
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-28-2008, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaairman View Post
Don't forget the axle seal tool...
True--I R/R'ed the ball joints when my buddy and I had my frontend apart to install my Dynatrac kit so I didn't need that particular tool b/c the Dynatrac kit eliminated the parts that require it.
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