Add a leaf INSTALLATION - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-12-2009, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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Add a leaf INSTALLATION

Just purchased a superlift 2" add a leaf... How hard is it to install this? Any of you guys have any tips or info for me before i tackle this tomorrow...? Any info would be much appreciated fellas. Thanks in advance!

oh eight f-250 tuned by SPARTAN

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-12-2009, 08:09 PM
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Depends on the tools that you have. Air tools will make the process go much faster and less painful.

A lot of this is probably unnecessary, but it could help:

Lock it in 4wd before you jack up the rear end, or it'll roll if you're not level. Jack up the rear end from under the axle, put jackstands under the frame, take off the rear tires, and lower the jack until the axle is hanging. Taking the tires off lets you not jack it up so high and still get the axle to droop. Have the jack still under the axle before you loosen the U bolts or the axle will fall. Do one side at a time instead of both together. It'll be easier to bolt back up if nothing is free moving around. Disconnect shocks first. Did the add a leaf package come with longer spring bolts? You'll need a longer bolt to go through the middle of the leaf pack after you add the leaf. Make sure it's long enough before you unbolt anything. Make sure you ice down extra beer just in case it doesn't go smooth. The beer will help with that. That's all I can think of. Report back and let us know how it went!

'10 F350, CCLB, SRW, 4x4, 6 speed, 2.5" AutoSpring front leveling pucks, 37 x 13.50 x 18 Toyo's, 18 x 9 XD Diesel's, Road Armors front/rear

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-12-2009, 08:21 PM
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And, post up some pics of the before, during, and after too

Rodney

08 F250 CC LWB 4x4 PSD, 6 SPD-Manual, 3.73 LS
2.5" Leveling Kit / 2" Superlift Add-a-Leaf
18" MT Classic II Wheels / 35" Toyo MT Tires
Go Industries Rancher Grille Guard
SnugTop Truck Cap/Shell
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-12-2009, 08:30 PM
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I am also curious to how it rides before and after

Good luck!!

2008 F-350 Lariat
6" Lift Riding on 37x13.5 Toyos

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-13-2009, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slick Willie View Post
Depends on the tools that you have. Air tools will make the process go much faster and less painful.

A lot of this is probably unnecessary, but it could help:

Lock it in 4wd before you jack up the rear end, or it'll roll if you're not level. Jack up the rear end from under the axle, put jackstands under the frame, take off the rear tires, and lower the jack until the axle is hanging. Taking the tires off lets you not jack it up so high and still get the axle to droop. Have the jack still under the axle before you loosen the U bolts or the axle will fall. Do one side at a time instead of both together. It'll be easier to bolt back up if nothing is free moving around. Disconnect shocks first. Did the add a leaf package come with longer spring bolts? You'll need a longer bolt to go through the middle of the leaf pack after you add the leaf. Make sure it's long enough before you unbolt anything. Make sure you ice down extra beer just in case it doesn't go smooth. The beer will help with that. That's all I can think of. Report back and let us know how it went!
Thanks Slick, i appreciate the help man. I just finished... things went pretty smooth, def smoother then i thought it was going to be! The beer did come in handy though, considering i live in FL and its hot as can be out right now.... so the ice cold refreshing coors light went down smooth lol. But all in all it was alot easier then i thought it was going to be. Took me a total of 2 1/2 hours to do it.

Sorry i didnt get any before pictures but i will get some after pictures as soon as i clean her. But it sits perfect, i did a 2.5" leveling kit up front and a 2" add a leaf in the back and it sits just about dead level... there might be a little of a rake in the back (little bit if at all). But it looks very clean especially with the 35's.

As far as the ride goes my only complaint that i have is a tad vibration when you accelerate then it goes away after a second or two. Whats that from, is there some way i can correct that... is it common to do that when you do a add a leaf? But after that the ride is good (not too much of a difference) maybe a little stiffer but that might be me just being anal also.

I did the add a leaf bc from what i read, add a leaf is a little better for when you towing and you got a load on rather then blocks but that might also be up to someones discretion. Ill get pictures up as soon as i can

oh eight f-250 tuned by SPARTAN

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-13-2009, 06:48 PM
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You need the carrier bearing spacer ... that will get rid
of the vibration ...

Rodney

08 F250 CC LWB 4x4 PSD, 6 SPD-Manual, 3.73 LS
2.5" Leveling Kit / 2" Superlift Add-a-Leaf
18" MT Classic II Wheels / 35" Toyo MT Tires
Go Industries Rancher Grille Guard
SnugTop Truck Cap/Shell
Xtreme Liner
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-13-2009, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rod.10853 View Post
You need the carrier bearing spacer ... that will get rid
of the vibration ...
Where does the spacer go? Between the frame and bearing im guessing... How does that eliminate the vibration? Thanks guys, i appreciate the help

oh eight f-250 tuned by SPARTAN

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-13-2009, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
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Where does the spacer go? Between the frame and bearing im guessing... How does that eliminate the vibration? Thanks guys, i appreciate the help
Right. I don't recall the "rule" ... but it's so much drop of the
carrier bearing for each inch of lift. With an F350, the rear is
alreadu higher, so a leveling lift in the front doesn't require
a carrier bearing spacer(s). But, F250 needs it done in most
cases. Some people just get the F350 spacer from Ford
or via ebay or what have you. You can get the spacers
from various places ... Truck Toyz sales Icon's, BDS's,
and I think others I think. If I remember correctly, it's
like 1/4" drop for each inch raised ...

Rodney

08 F250 CC LWB 4x4 PSD, 6 SPD-Manual, 3.73 LS
2.5" Leveling Kit / 2" Superlift Add-a-Leaf
18" MT Classic II Wheels / 35" Toyo MT Tires
Go Industries Rancher Grille Guard
SnugTop Truck Cap/Shell
Xtreme Liner
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-13-2009, 08:10 PM
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Hey Hanging Heels, does your truck have overload springs?

Rodney

08 F250 CC LWB 4x4 PSD, 6 SPD-Manual, 3.73 LS
2.5" Leveling Kit / 2" Superlift Add-a-Leaf
18" MT Classic II Wheels / 35" Toyo MT Tires
Go Industries Rancher Grille Guard
SnugTop Truck Cap/Shell
Xtreme Liner
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-13-2009, 08:25 PM
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Glad you got it done relatively smooth. And with the help of Coors Light, the beer of champions. Those silver bullets are a requirement for me to work on vehicles...don't know how I'd get anything done without them.

I don't know about the carrier bearing spacer, but I know a shim under the 3/4 ton block would help. The problem your faced with is the pinion angle at the end of the rear driveshaft. It was just right, now the pinion has shifted downward some, creating a little bit of an angle on the rear driveshaft at the yoke. Putting a shim under the block to rotate the pinion up a hair is one way to fix it, but the carrier bearing spacer should work too, I just don't know much about that route.

Edit: just figured it out. The carrier bearing is part of the two piece driveshaft. The spacer lowers the carrier bearing, thus improving your driveshaft angle. That's the route you want to take. Don't do the shim since you already have it all bolted back together. I don't know where to get the carrier bearing spacer, but someone on here does, I'm sure. It's been done a lot.

'10 F350, CCLB, SRW, 4x4, 6 speed, 2.5" AutoSpring front leveling pucks, 37 x 13.50 x 18 Toyo's, 18 x 9 XD Diesel's, Road Armors front/rear


Last edited by Slick Willie; 08-13-2009 at 08:27 PM.
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