Suspension Noises - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Suspension Noises

I've got a few different noises coming from the front end...clanking, squeaks and squealing. Feels like something is loose. They all usually happen under 25 mph when going over bumps or rough roads but I have heard them at around 55 mph from time to time. The ride has been getting progressively worse and she wanders a little. Gas mileage is down a bit too...around 2 mpg. Also feels like its lacking some power on the low end. Checked the hubs for movement and didn't find any. The dealership keeps telling me its the lift, but I don't buy it. Any thoughts?

2008 F250 4X4 SC, SB
Icon 2.5, OUO Adjustable Link Arms
OUO Traction Blocks and Bars
Firestone Rear Air Bags
Spartan 250, AFE Intake
285/65 R20 BF Goodrich All Terrains
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 08:00 PM
 
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The change in fuel mileage could easily be the switch from summer to winter fuel in your area, unless you're in DFW as your name suggests. As for the clunks. I would check the track bar as the OEM unit is a POS in my opinion and I replaced mine with an ICON unit that is a much better design.

What shock are you running up front? And do you have a steering stablizer? I would also suggest tightening the fasteners on all replaced products in the front end and greasing the u-joints inside the front knuckles.
post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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The change in fuel mileage could easily be the switch from summer to winter fuel in your area, unless you're in DFW as your name suggests. As for the clunks. I would check the track bar as the OEM unit is a POS in my opinion and I replaced mine with an ICON unit that is a much better design.

What shock are you running up front? And do you have a steering stablizer? I would also suggest tightening the fasteners on all replaced products in the front end and greasing the u-joints inside the front knuckles.
I'm in DFW but I don't know about whether the winter fuel has been rolled out yet. I've got the ICON track bar, ICON shocks, dual steering stabilizer and have tightened all the bolts several times. Had the lift put on around 47,500 miles in early June and now its around 52,000.

I'll try to get the U-joints greased and see what happens. Thanks

2008 F250 4X4 SC, SB
Icon 2.5, OUO Adjustable Link Arms
OUO Traction Blocks and Bars
Firestone Rear Air Bags
Spartan 250, AFE Intake
285/65 R20 BF Goodrich All Terrains
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 08:37 PM
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Just wanted to give you guys a little check list to look out for if your having drive vibrations, noises, squeeks, or any other suspension issues!

•Make sure that everything is tight on your kits! Check your torques on everything even factory re-installed parts!

•Zerk fittings are put there for a purpose, use them! Just don't get crazy and blow your seals out!

•WD-40 or Spray Lithium Grease works wonders on leaf springs! (If you have a squeek this will solve it!)

•Always do a check on all your bushings and bolts, stuff is not made to last forever now a days.

•GET A ONE PIECE DRIVE SHAFT WITH HIGH ANGLE CV'S (If your having drive line vibrations this will solve 90% of your problems!) I don't care who told you that a 2 piece drive shaft is the best they are morons!

•Remember you pay for what you get! $50 shocks are not going to going to ride like $300 dollar shocks or coils!

2008 Harley Davidson F250 16" Custom Lift, Modded to Hell and beyond! "CEREAL KILLA"

Truck FOR SALE:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=39415
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 08:43 PM
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id be going over EVERY nut and bolt that your suspension "installer" touched...
everything should have been checked and tightened after the 1st 500 or so miles
after the install anyway !

Don R.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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I've checked all the bolts personally and had two different shops check while I watched.

The noises are new and started happening about 2,000 miles ago maybe less after a trip back from Austin. Heard some loud pop noise from the undercarriage while at highway speed, get back into town and started hearing noises. Honestly, I'm at the end of my rope...if one more person tells me thats how a big truck is supposed to drive I'm gonna flip my ****.

I'm getting to the point where I don't feel safe driving the truck in heavy wind or rain.

2008 F250 4X4 SC, SB
Icon 2.5, OUO Adjustable Link Arms
OUO Traction Blocks and Bars
Firestone Rear Air Bags
Spartan 250, AFE Intake
285/65 R20 BF Goodrich All Terrains
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 10:08 PM
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ball joints ? shocks ? sway bar bushings ?

Don R.

'04 350 4WD Lariat Crew Longbed (built 05.04)
-------------------

-------------------

Gear Vendors Dbl Overdrive Install w/ Pics.
135 Amp Alternator Upgrade/Replacement
50 Gal. Aux Tank; Pump, Filter, Wiring
Truck Audio,
CUSTOM Valentine One Install - LINK
$10 Grill Mod. (protects the coolers) !

Block Heater Cord (Rear Mounted w/ Timer) - LINK

REALTIME -CURRENT DIESEL Pricing <HERE>
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-26-2009, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bushpilot View Post
ball joints ? shocks ? sway bar bushings ?
I'm leaning towards ball joints but can they tell without tearing the assembly apart?

2008 F250 4X4 SC, SB
Icon 2.5, OUO Adjustable Link Arms
OUO Traction Blocks and Bars
Firestone Rear Air Bags
Spartan 250, AFE Intake
285/65 R20 BF Goodrich All Terrains
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-27-2009, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DFW64 View Post
I'm leaning towards ball joints but can they tell without tearing the assembly apart?
imo no, the wheel and assembly are too heavy to determine a ball joint
is blown by wiggling the wheel, fwiw my balljoint was not blown out of the socket
so *I* couldnt find any play in the wheel via the traditional troubleshooting method.

in one case (of mine) i had a LOOSE sway bar drop link bushing that popped when
i hit bumps and turns, took me forever to find it...id replaced the OE bushings w/ poly's
and driven the truck several 100 miles before the bolt loosened in its mount.

it took less than a quarter turn of the bolt/nut to snug things up !

Don R.

'04 350 4WD Lariat Crew Longbed (built 05.04)
-------------------

-------------------

Gear Vendors Dbl Overdrive Install w/ Pics.
135 Amp Alternator Upgrade/Replacement
50 Gal. Aux Tank; Pump, Filter, Wiring
Truck Audio,
CUSTOM Valentine One Install - LINK
$10 Grill Mod. (protects the coolers) !

Block Heater Cord (Rear Mounted w/ Timer) - LINK

REALTIME -CURRENT DIESEL Pricing <HERE>
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-27-2009, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bushpilot View Post
imo no, the wheel and assembly are too heavy to determine a ball joint
is blown by wiggling the wheel, fwiw my balljoint was not blown out of the socket
so *I* couldnt find any play in the wheel via the traditional troubleshooting method
We find worn ball joints all the time by using hand and prybar... how else would you check them... once they are out if they are bad enough to tell then they are TOO WORN out...

Aaron - 2004 F350 "Offroad Edition"

2003 F250 "Pulling Truck"
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