after the swap - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-15-2011, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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after the swap

Im going to be doing the 12 valve 6bt swap soon.ill need to sell my v10 and torqshift to help pay for the swap but my question is where would be the best place to sell them and how much should i ask for?or should I try the local junkyards to see if they would be willing to trade strait up for a 12v with the 4wd trans?ive checked ebay and the trans should be easy to sell but im not seeing any v10s getting bids on them just buy it now prices.any input would be apprieciated
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 04:43 PM
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I don't know what the going rate is for the V10, bad thing is it is really a very good motor so there are not a whole bunch of folks replacing them plus only about 10% of SD got the V10 so the demand for a pulled motor is low. You might consider selling the whole truck and find a 2003-2007 with a dead 6.0 to swap instead. I sold enough parts off my dead 6.0 to pay for my 12V. And I still have the heads and some other parts laying around. If you can find a 5 or 6 speed truck that would be the least expensive. Just a thought.

Jakob

2004 5.9L/47rh Lariat FX4 Crew Cab Short bed. 213K miles 18" dbacks with nitto A/T grapplers, Zoodad mod, and 2000 turn signal mod. Limited Excursion bumpers front and back. Chrome grill, EGR delete, FICM delete, glow plug delete, HPOP delete, 2 cylinders delete, and 20 valves deleted

97 12v/47rh built by Garmon's



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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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this truck is my daily driver so i cant sell it for a dead 6.0.if i have to ill eat the cost for the motor although i figured with alot of the rv guys would want itat least.if my ts trans will cover some of the swap id be good with that.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by chasewhite05 View Post
this truck is my daily driver so i cant sell it for a dead 6.0.if i have to ill eat the cost for the motor although i figured with alot of the rv guys would want itat least.if my ts trans will cover some of the swap id be good with that.
Oh a daily driver conversion, that is going to be tough. I am going on 8 months on my conversion but I only get to work on it about 4 hours a week. There are lots of RV's with the V10s so that might be a market there. You should get a fair amount for the tranny as those are in later model Ford Trucks. How many miles are on you truck?

Jakob

2004 5.9L/47rh Lariat FX4 Crew Cab Short bed. 213K miles 18" dbacks with nitto A/T grapplers, Zoodad mod, and 2000 turn signal mod. Limited Excursion bumpers front and back. Chrome grill, EGR delete, FICM delete, glow plug delete, HPOP delete, 2 cylinders delete, and 20 valves deleted

97 12v/47rh built by Garmon's



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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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when I do start the swap ill have a few friends help me and I plan on working on it nonstop till its done and running.since its the 12 valve hopefully it wont take more than a week or so to get it drivable.I found a 98 12 valve with auto tans and no turbo with 147k miles and the guy wants 1400 for both.my truck only has 200k miles on it but it runs flawless aside from the mpgs I get.the truck was owned by a construction company before so all the maintanance was done by the local ford dealer on schedule.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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one other thing,this 98 12valve should have the 47re if im not mistaken.how much more difficult will it be to get it running in my truck?id prefer to have the 47rh cause of no electronics so should i make an offer for just the engine?
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 09:48 PM
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Yeah I bought my truck with 200k on it too. but I had the 6.0 so it only lasted 12k more then she up and died.

$1400 for both the motor and tranny is not a bad deal that is only slightly more than I paid for my motor and tranny but that is an automatic motor (Mine was a 5 speed) so it will have the right throttle on it with TV cable adjustments and such. I am still working through my issues with getting my 47re to work, so it looks like I need to spend the $400+ and get the throttle braket that will work. The Tcase is a PITA to get appart and you will have to take out one of the shafts to get it back together (it will help getting it apart also) but replacing the input shaft was cake. Since you will have the tranny you might take it to a shop and have them go over it and check it out for you, or atleast change the seals. Also if you go over the motor while it is out tab the KDP, do the front and rear main seals and replace the valve cover gaskets. How are you getting fuel to the P-pump? Are you keeping the lift pump or using a FASS or Airdog? If you are using the latter then you will need to block off the fuel pump hole you can use a big block chevy fuel pump block off plate for that. If you get the ECM with the motor I think you can controll the shifting with that and not have to put a shift kit in. You can find those online too. things you might consider getting: the Alt bracket so you can use the Ford alt. Get your ac lines converted to use the Dodge compressor, get the tach kit and you might want to get some 3" charge air cooler tubes I got mine from ebay, had to do some cutting but it worked fine. you will need an intercooler too. and looks like a turbo as well I have heard several folks using the ebay turbos they are cheap so they might be worth a try.

Jakob

2004 5.9L/47rh Lariat FX4 Crew Cab Short bed. 213K miles 18" dbacks with nitto A/T grapplers, Zoodad mod, and 2000 turn signal mod. Limited Excursion bumpers front and back. Chrome grill, EGR delete, FICM delete, glow plug delete, HPOP delete, 2 cylinders delete, and 20 valves deleted

97 12v/47rh built by Garmon's




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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 09:58 PM
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And yes the 98 will have the 47re. one more thing before you buy it check the block for a 53 cast into the side. I don't know if the 98 12v had 53 blocks but the 24v did and those blocks are prone to cracking. Google cummins 53 block you will find lots of info on that. I think there is a section here under the 24v dodges about the 53 blocks.

Jakob

2004 5.9L/47rh Lariat FX4 Crew Cab Short bed. 213K miles 18" dbacks with nitto A/T grapplers, Zoodad mod, and 2000 turn signal mod. Limited Excursion bumpers front and back. Chrome grill, EGR delete, FICM delete, glow plug delete, HPOP delete, 2 cylinders delete, and 20 valves deleted

97 12v/47rh built by Garmon's



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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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thanks my first thought is to get an ebay turbo with a 6.0 intercooler and change the glow plugs,tab, headgasket with arp studs before I start the swap.as far as the trans goes I want to replace the tc and the valve body before it goes in as well.I figure if I do this stuff first the swap should go smoother and the engine shouldnt have any issues starting up.as far as the shaft goes since im running my stock transfer case from ford is it easier to replace the shaft on the transfer case or the dodge trans?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 10:11 PM
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don't know about swapping the shaft on the tranny but it was not that bad doing the shaft on the Tcase. using the 6.0 intercooler you will need to get a reducer cause the input side of the CAC is larget than the output side and I think the input side is 3.25". Also there is a advance adapter adapter that you can use for the union of the tranny and tcase but it takes up space and it is way cheaper to replace the input shaft.

Jakob

2004 5.9L/47rh Lariat FX4 Crew Cab Short bed. 213K miles 18" dbacks with nitto A/T grapplers, Zoodad mod, and 2000 turn signal mod. Limited Excursion bumpers front and back. Chrome grill, EGR delete, FICM delete, glow plug delete, HPOP delete, 2 cylinders delete, and 20 valves deleted

97 12v/47rh built by Garmon's



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