96 12v into a SD - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 03:27 AM Thread Starter
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96 12v into a SD

so my journey begins, i'm hoping to chronicle my struggle as this will be my first attempt at a real auto project. so if you've got something to add, don't be a jackass as i probably dont know. this will be a muli-part story hopefully ending up with a somewhat self sufficient truck camper, i sold my BMW m3 6spd



beautiful car just not practical at all and i'm 6'3" so i hardly fit into it. growing up my parents had a 7.3 excursion so i fell in love with fords and diesel. we towed a 33' jayco so i fell in love with the outdoors, having joined the army has only furthered that passion. my jeep





a little NC beach action

so i've decided to make a truck camper of sorts, this it the beginning of that build which will probably take a while due to work but i should have a nice lull the next couple of months. anyway, initially i wanted to do a cummins into an X because of how cheap a X gasser is but do to some special requirements its got to be a truck. anyway i'm not to that part of the build yet lets talk about the donor and removing the engine for a bit. i picked up a 96 2wd 2500 5.9 for 4k



engine ran pretty good, cold starts were rough and the fuel shut off solenoid was temperamental. the transmission however was crap, that's ok i'd like a rowboat when i'm done anyway i'm thinking a zf-6 as it is lighter, cheaper and seems to be more reliable from my internet searching, we'll see i guess.

anyway like i said this is my first real serious auto project so i'd like to hit on some of the struggles i've had in the hope that someone with similar problems can get a solid answer, or at least one that kinda works. so i was lucky, i inherited a FSM for the dodge as part of the sale





dis-assembly of the truck was pretty straight forward when in question just remove more bolts. the 6(?) transmission bolts were kind of a pain in the [email protected]@ especially the top 2. for the one on the passenger side, just keep removing stuff near it until you can access it from the top. the one on the driver side i had to use a clever combination of universal joints and extensions, it was gangster. there are 6(?) bolts mounting the torque adapter onto the flywheel, there is a roundish service cover on the engine side of the trans adapter with two bolts, remove this cover and you can feel the bolts on the flywheel, use a breaker bar to turn the torque adapter and put your finger in the service hole to feel for the bolts. if you get a light just right you can see them between the flywheel and the trans adapter from the side.

as for removing the engine, some have said it can be removed without taking the valve covers off of cylinder 5 and 6 and leaving the oil pan on, good luck. i put the engine on the hoist, removed the engine mount bolts from the engine couldn't get it out, removed the oil pan and made some serious progress, then i removed the engine mounts all together because they kept getting hung up and she came right out.



getting it onto the stand was another fun challenge, the legs of the hoist and stand will not fit inside each other, awesome. anyway i took the flywheel, trans adapter and rear main seal off, mounted the stand plate to the engine than slid the engine stand onto the plate, so now i have an 1100 lb engine with the engine stand dangling from my engine hoist, this smells of safety. to get all of the wheels on the ground i began lowering and twisting it so eventually the legs of both of them kind of formed an L. Great success!



the rotors are on there to make me feel better not because it necessarily needs it. that is a harbor freight stand so hopefully i'm not waking up in the middle of the night to loud crashing noises, we'll see, there didn't seem to be a lot of options available in that weight range plus a buffer zone and my price range.

anyway today i started removing stuff, picked up some lunch baggies to keep track of what goes where. did a little shopping on the internet, i'd like to get this as close to a new engine as possible so new water pump, oil pump, etc. its looking like 1100 or so for new accessories.


question, this automatic transmission oil cooler, how is that different than the transmission cooler in front of the intercooler? its cooled by coolant, as opposed to air cooled, both seemed to have the same trans fluid in them, just wondering why two coolers, and will i need to keep it for a zf-6, reason i ask is i know it has an internal pump.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-21-2012, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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p.s. the bolts used to mount the engine on the stand were m12-1.75 i would use something longer than a 90, check your tractor supply, the longest lowes has were 90s
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-30-2012, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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not too much new going on, took the exhaust manifold off, along with the turbo and the fuel lines, hopefully this weekend i'll get the injection pump, and vaccuum pump and power steering and be pretty much down to the head and block =)







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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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had an hour or so and took the oppertunity to get a little more done, almost down to just the block and head. in hindsight i really should have taken the truck to a carwash there is a pretty thick combination of mud and oil caked onto the passenger side of the block. i was also kind of bummed because of all the buildup behind the oil cooler where the coolant sits, hopefully the machine shop can square me away.







the parts pile gets bigger and bigger, you can kind of see the axles i have set aside for the jeep =)



i also ran by tractor supply and picked up some of their parts cleaner, its called psc 1000 and is by the sandblaster and parts cleaner bins. i'm thinking its real similar to what the army has in their gun cleaning bins. we'll see hopefully it does the trick.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-02-2012, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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i had another hour or so and got some more stuff off, i wanted to get the injection pump gear off but looks like i'll need to order the special gear puller. the nut that holds it on was really on there i'm thinking a little more than the books 122 ft/lbs i had the 1/2 breaker bar and a 3/4 wrench on the end of that, i was more worried about the engine stand than the engine itself. also the books says its a 22mm nut, its more like a 28 or 29 i had a 1 3/16 nut and it worked, was a little sloppy but it worked, when i put it back on i'll get the right size. i got the rockers and the tappets out, no big worries there.





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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-02-2012, 09:38 PM
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Lookin good! Have you found a Super Duty?

2002 F-350 CC, Shortbed, 4X4, rebuilt 7.3, EBV brake, 4" dual exhaust, B&D compressor wheel, head studs, Gear head performance 6 pos, Banks Big Head, built 4R100 w/triple disc torque conv, Shift kit, 204K, B&W Hitch and 5th wheel companion, Superlift Air Bags, 35 x 12.50 x 17 BFG KM2:

The veiws expressed are purely opinion. I in no way take responsibility for any actions or damage as a result of trying this at home.

Local 3 OPERATORS UNION

2005 Chevy 7500 C-7/Allison, Service box off of my '93 Int

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-02-2012, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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not yet, i've been searching pretty hard, though i'm looking for the white unicorn it seems. either f250 or f350 CCSB 6spd 7.3, with the fold down center counsel and not priced over 8k, i'm trying hard to keep this from balooning out of control, though it probably will. this is the setup i'm after because i'd like to make the swap as easy as possible when you start going from gas to diesel or auto to manual or 2wd to 4wd things seem to get crazy, i'm not after crazy i'm after simple...ish =)... there have been a few that have everything just a bit on the expensive side and usually really far away, maybe i'll have to bite that bullet, we'll see i'm not to that part of the project yet.

I did order a bunch of stuff from pure diesel power and rock auto, 4k gsk, 60lb springs, #10 fuel plate w/ boost elbow, water pump, oil pump, lift pump, a/c compressor, injector puller, the injection pump gear puller. i'm hoping to get some decent power but still get 18 mpg when i'm done again we'll see.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 06:26 PM
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Retourque headbolts, change injectors. 10 plate and 3k kit was too much for Me.

'95 T800 N14 13sp DO 4.33 gears
'89 W900B 444 Cummins CPL 1280 18sp 3.55 w/2sp axles 19ft CIM grain/silage box
'03 Dodge 2500 4x4 6sp modded just right
'05 Dodge 3500 4x4 6sp w/ Triple C hydra bed
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 12:05 AM Thread Starter
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Retourque headbolts, change injectors. 10 plate and 3k kit was too much for Me.

too much power? i guess i'm after a little longer power curve and a slight bump in power, i don't want to get super crazy with it.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 12:42 PM
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The 96-97 5 SPd trucks already rev to 2750 so, the 3k gsk didn't do much and was $ and a pain to install and adjust. I put in the 10 plate and slid it back so I would only make 35 psi with stock turbo. Higher than that and you leave the efficiency map and cylinder pressure goes up to high and you might have head gasket issues. Injectors need to be changed anyways and are cheap and easy to do. I would go that route first. I towed a lot with it and had enough power and it had good drivability. I had low fuel pressure so I changed lift pump and put a Tork technology overflow valve on. This is just my opinion and experience. Head gaskets aren't that bad to do but the $600 could be better spent. Have fun!!

'95 T800 N14 13sp DO 4.33 gears
'89 W900B 444 Cummins CPL 1280 18sp 3.55 w/2sp axles 19ft CIM grain/silage box
'03 Dodge 2500 4x4 6sp modded just right
'05 Dodge 3500 4x4 6sp w/ Triple C hydra bed
Smarty Touch Centramatics ATS ex manifolds
'06 IH 4300 DT466 Alison 245HP
Authorized Ekotuning.com dealer
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