3406E rebuild questions - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-14-2014, 04:15 AM Thread Starter
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3406E rebuild questions

I have a 95 5EK with about 975,000 miles. 2nd owner, put 500K on it, never overheated, reg service done 15K max, either way a pretty easy life. Had the injector cup o-rings go bad and filled the cooling system with fuel. Had them changed and then a while later the oil started getting coolant in it. Well now I want to rebuild it and was wondering if I used the old liners and had then honed and such, if I replaced them in the same holes would I need to do counterbores? I am looking for some easy tricks to keep the rebuild cost down yet still get reliability.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-08-2014, 11:13 PM
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Personally I have never done a rebuild without replacing the liners. That being said if I were going to try and re use them it would all depend on their condition and if you are getting coolant in the oil "assuming its a bad liner o-ring" There is normally a reason the o-ring failed. In my experience its due to the cylinder heating up and melting the o-ring from lack of lubrication or what ever. If the liners all look good, there is no discoloration and the cross hatches are still there they may very well be ok to use again. Also look for pitting on the outside from coolant.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 05:36 PM
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I would replace the cylinder packs but I'm not the one paying the bill. Like uberjoebob2000, I have never tried to hone one and I personally wouldn't go that route. You would most likely not have to do any counter bore work. You would want to check for cracks around the top of the liner flange. They are probably ok if you aren't getting any compression in the cooling system. It would be interesting to hear from someone who has honed a liner and made it work.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 06:26 PM
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The counter bores, you have to clean it up and measure it to be sure you are within specs, if you or they have used DCA4 then you need to remove the cover from the water pump, and inspect that. The cylinder packs, you need to replace them, the liners will be pitted, if they did not use, power-cool. The head will need valve guides and a regrind minimum. When you get a reman you get a warrenty, bearings you need to replace them.
I did rebuilds for a living, it is a lot of money but if you do not do it completely the first time, it will end up costing you a lot more in the long run. Especially if you consider downtime, and customer satisfaction.
Just a thought!

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnp3 View Post
The counter bores, you have to clean it up and measure it to be sure you are within specs, if you or they have used DCA4 then you need to remove the cover from the water pump, and inspect that. The cylinder packs, you need to replace them, the liners will be pitted, if they did not use, power-cool. The head will need valve guides and a regrind minimum. When you get a reman you get a warrenty, bearings you need to replace them.
I did rebuilds for a living, it is a lot of money but if you do not do it completely the first time, it will end up costing you a lot more in the long run. Especially if you consider downtime, and customer satisfaction.
Just a thought!
I completely agree, thats how I do it as well.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-09-2014, 09:05 PM
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As far as honing a liner, the liners are so hard nowadays, they have to be done in a machine shop. I do not remember the last time we did it but was on a Cummins, and after they honed the liners we could not get them in properly. It had to be 20 years ago now at least.
Just a thought!

1988 ford van fresh overhaul, 1991 nissan pick-up 1993 Caprice 2000 GMC S10 Blaser 2007 nbs 3500 GMC 4x4 crew-cab long box 17 inch single wheels Duramax Alison. BW turnover Ball. Furakawa FL35 loader. Retired, HD mechanic, worked on engines all my life. Fabricator welder. electrician. in the process of finishing my new shop. Live in Rock Creek B.C. Wife has a fruit stand.
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