Tires out of balance - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-05-2007, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Question Tires out of balance

Anybody running 265/75/16's on stock rims(6.5")? This is my third set and everyone of them has hopped around 40-45 mph. The first set were BFG's, then Coopers, now Goodyears which are brand new. All with the same problem. I had the first two sets rebalanced with no improvement so I lived with it but now I'm tired (sorry) of it. I jacked the truck up and threw it in drive with the last set and couldn't see any bent rims but the tires themselves definately hopped. All are E rated. The problem started the day I took the stockers (245's) off. Also, and I don't know if it is related, it chews up the insides of both front tires real bad. Had it checked for alignment and shop said it was good with no adj. necessary. Put a tape measure on the fronts myself and to my best guess it was toed out about a 1/4". So I cranked the tie rods in a turn. Any ideas?:shrug:

06 Sierra 2500 4wd lb. Predator, S&B, MBRP duals-no cat, Quadzilla gauges, Allison Jr., Riderite air bags, PPE Tie rod sleeves, egr plate / finger stick. 02 Chevy 3500 8.1L 4wd dump 9' Fisher mm2, sander. 03 Kubota L4630. 80'S or 90's Komatsu pc50. 89 d250 5.9 which may someday go into something.:
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-06-2007, 01:55 PM
 
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i ran 265's and 285's on the stock wheels and never have a problem,see if you can't find a place that has a road force balance machine and have them balance them and if you have a bent wheel or a tire out of round they can can find it with that machine..
also after doing all them different tires did you ever notice a difference in the vibration or is it the same,if the vibration never changed it probalily isn't the tires or wheels,check you ujoints and and wheel bearings..
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-06-2007, 07:04 PM
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Jack the truck up and see if there is any play if you push on the top of the tire on towards the truck.. If there is slop then you need to replace the whole assembly. McRat has a how to article for this on his site, and like all of his articles it is very well written and detailed with lots of pictures.

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-06-2007, 09:58 PM
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My vote is a bad wheel bearing.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-06-2007, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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I thanked tyreboyz also but it didn't show up.? I have checked for play in the frontside to side and ball joints and none there. I'll check the back also, but wouldn't there be noise and or leak by now? No play in drivetrain either. It's been about 17000 miles with problem. I'll try to find someone with a better balancer but around here it might be difficult.

06 Sierra 2500 4wd lb. Predator, S&B, MBRP duals-no cat, Quadzilla gauges, Allison Jr., Riderite air bags, PPE Tie rod sleeves, egr plate / finger stick. 02 Chevy 3500 8.1L 4wd dump 9' Fisher mm2, sander. 03 Kubota L4630. 80'S or 90's Komatsu pc50. 89 d250 5.9 which may someday go into something.:
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-07-2007, 05:17 AM
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a dead wheel bearing wont leak. read mcrats write up.

2004 Chevy CC/SB LB7 LT3
EFILive, SC Trans w/ 1058 by me, Traction bars and centerlink braces built by me, Custom adjustable stock wastegate, 6 inch custom exhaust, 1792 Lift Pump, Belltech 3" drop shackles, Black H2's w/ Falken 285/60/17s for summer, BFG 315/70/17s for winter, SD sleeves, DiPricol EGT and Boost gauges on the pillar along with an Aeroforce for rail PSI and trans temp, 2 Kicker Comp CVT 10's w/ memphis amp, t-rex full face billet grille,limo tint, .Oh yeah I'm 20 and I built and tuned it myself.


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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-18-2007, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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I can't check that stuff because I'm still on #@$%^ dial up. My comp. can't handle it. I'm going to get it all figured out soon though. It seems that it's either a bearing or the high spot in tires isn't matched to the low spot on rim. I guess the fix for that is like tyreboyz said with the road force balancer and/or taking the tire off the rim and clocking it to match. We'll see how it turns out.

06 Sierra 2500 4wd lb. Predator, S&B, MBRP duals-no cat, Quadzilla gauges, Allison Jr., Riderite air bags, PPE Tie rod sleeves, egr plate / finger stick. 02 Chevy 3500 8.1L 4wd dump 9' Fisher mm2, sander. 03 Kubota L4630. 80'S or 90's Komatsu pc50. 89 d250 5.9 which may someday go into something.:
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-20-2007, 02:59 AM
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No noise, no wobble has run over 1k miles with the problem - it is not the wheel bearings. It may kill the bearings but that is the other way around.

Toe problems can cause that with big tires and a lift. Chances are excellent that there is more than 1/8 in run out on the tread face. The normal tire shop just replaces tires that have more than .100 runout but they can be cut round. If you can find a shop with a tire truing machine they will be round, you just lose the high points that make it bounce. They can then be balanced and it will last most of the tire life.

If you cranked on the tie rods, you can set the toe correctly. I chalk a line around the tire while it on the jack and then scribe a line with a scribe that is thin so that the line on the tape and the line of black are the same. put it back on the ground and roll it 6 feet forward to get the strain that is there when driving. Good eye sight is needed to measure 8 in above the floor from he line on one tire to the line on the other tire. I don't have the spec but the tires are always closer at the front than the back and the amount is always under 1/8 in but normally 1/32 - 1/16. I generally set mine so that the line for the rule and the scribed line are an exact match on one side and 1/2 the width of the scale line off on the other side commonly known as 0 toe in. It is often that it will 'hunt' without a little more caster angle or a little ofset on the caster so it leads right. I prefer that it lead right 4 feet in 300 to 500 feet.

If you make an adjustment in toe it needs to roll foward agin to check the results, tires 'spring' tension unless they are setting on a turn tables that are in good shape.

Taping the measuring tape to a boardand setting the board on cinder blocks will let you read both sides.

The truing machine cuts the rubber with a 36 grit sanding disk and it is normal to stop when there is spaces less than 6 in long, except for 'worming' wear pattern. They can also set the stagger by making tires the same diameter.

Wrong stagger can cause buckboarding and other rough ride, 4x4 need to match.

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-20-2007, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
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I guestimated on the toe in while I still had the last set of tires on. These new ones have only 1500 miles on them but they hop bad. When I put the truck up and threw it in gear you can deffinately see a high spot on the tires and not so much on the rim. I was thinking of slowly lowering a paint brush over the spinning tire to mark the high spots and then getting rid of them. I might try it with the sand paper.

06 Sierra 2500 4wd lb. Predator, S&B, MBRP duals-no cat, Quadzilla gauges, Allison Jr., Riderite air bags, PPE Tie rod sleeves, egr plate / finger stick. 02 Chevy 3500 8.1L 4wd dump 9' Fisher mm2, sander. 03 Kubota L4630. 80'S or 90's Komatsu pc50. 89 d250 5.9 which may someday go into something.:
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 10-20-2007, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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Btw good info.

06 Sierra 2500 4wd lb. Predator, S&B, MBRP duals-no cat, Quadzilla gauges, Allison Jr., Riderite air bags, PPE Tie rod sleeves, egr plate / finger stick. 02 Chevy 3500 8.1L 4wd dump 9' Fisher mm2, sander. 03 Kubota L4630. 80'S or 90's Komatsu pc50. 89 d250 5.9 which may someday go into something.:
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