Front End Lift Questions - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
Thread Details Posted by mckey73, this thread has received 3 replies and been viewed 680 times.

 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 04:33 AM Thread Starter
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Front End Lift Questions

Lately I have been spending some time lying under my truck, taking care of a couple of things and planning some other things. Here is what I have noticed, my torsion keys have a green spot of paint on them, is the part # visible anywhere? Did they install these on 2500's from the factory? I was sort of planning on installing the readylift torsion keys and shock brackets but I'm having second thoughts. Why get new keys if already have the green ones? It seems to me that increasing the load on the torsion bars might cause more stress on other components, mainly the ball joints.

So, if for some weird reason I have "green keys" already installed my job is almost done. Does readylift or anyone else sell just the shock mounts? Now if I crank it up 2" (that's all I want), and install shock mounts so my nice rancho's don't get hammered, what will that do to my ball joints?

Are there any aftermarket upper A-arms that have ball joints that are easily replaceable? With the "press-in" style ball joints I have on my truck I wouldn't feel comfortable having someone replace them. I would want to buy new A-arms with the joints already pressed in. Ideally a bolt in design would be friggin' awesome! Are there any lift kits out there with upper A-arms that have this kind of setup? Can I install said A-arms w/o a whole 4" lift kit? If there are any A-arms out there that are just a bit longer/bigger that would really help to reduce the CV axle angle that would normally be dangerous when dumping the clutch @ 3k rpm's.

One last question, do you really need that silly tool to remove the torsion keys? Or can this silly tool do it himself? I've read that people jack the front end up, back off the torsion key adjustment bolts and completely unload the torsion bars. If they are already unloaded then you can just remove them right? Is there something I'm overlooking?

If you read this whole thing, THANKS! I really appreciate it! :thanks:
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mckey73
Lately I have been spending some time lying under my truck, taking care of a couple of things and planning some other things. Here is what I have noticed, my torsion keys have a green spot of paint on them, is the part # visible anywhere? Did they install these on 2500's from the factory? I was sort of planning on installing the readylift torsion keys and shock brackets but I'm having second thoughts. Why get new keys if already have the green ones? It seems to me that increasing the load on the torsion bars might cause more stress on other components, mainly the ball joints.

"Green Keys" are from 1/2 tons. IIRC, we have "purple keys" from the factory. Its been a while since I had to think about it.

So, if for some weird reason I have "green keys" already installed my job is almost done. Does readylift or anyone else sell just the shock mounts? Now if I crank it up 2" (that's all I want), and install shock mounts so my nice rancho's don't get hammered, what will that do to my ball joints?

I was going to post to buy the 2" longer Bilsteins, but since you have Ranchos already, I think Cognito sells new lower shock mounts that are 2" taller. You can also space the upper mount 3/4" up using washers, and that works too.

Are there any aftermarket upper A-arms that have ball joints that are easily replaceable? With the "press-in" style ball joints I have on my truck I wouldn't feel comfortable having someone replace them. I would want to buy new A-arms with the joints already pressed in. Ideally a bolt in design would be friggin' awesome! Are there any lift kits out there with upper A-arms that have this kind of setup? Can I install said A-arms w/o a whole 4" lift kit? If there are any A-arms out there that are just a bit longer/bigger that would really help to reduce the CV axle angle that would normally be dangerous when dumping the clutch @ 3k rpm's.

Cognito also sells new A-arms that help with the potential ball joint problem. http://www.cognitomotorsports.com/

One last question, do you really need that silly tool to remove the torsion keys? Or can this silly tool do it himself? I've read that people jack the front end up, back off the torsion key adjustment bolts and completely unload the torsion bars. If they are already unloaded then you can just remove them right? Is there something I'm overlooking?

Some people use a very large gear puller. Heck, Haynes even has one shown in their DIY books!!!!! Now, do I recommend that? Hell no. Its not too safe, IMO. But, if its all you have, then just be VERY CAREFUL! I bought the torsion tool when I did my keys on my 02. It works on S-trucks, too.

If you unload the torsions, there's still stress on the keys. They dont go "limp" when the bolts are out, where you can just pop the keys out.


If you read this whole thing, THANKS! I really appreciate it! :thanks:
Hope that helps.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-15-2007, 02:06 AM
 
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You Can Take The Keys Out With A Ball Joint Press, Did My Lift With It And Removed The Keys On My Other Trucks With It. The Rancho Shocks Should Be Long Enough Without The Bracket Extentions. The Brackets Are For The Stock Shocks That Are Not Long Enough. If I Were You I Would Get A 4 Inch Lift. Because Cranking The Torsion Bars Cause Alot Of Wear On Inner/outer Tierods, Balljoints And The Pitman/idler Arms; Which In The Long Run Cost Just As Much As A Lift Kit And With A Lift Kit, You Wont Have Severe Cv Angles.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-15-2007, 03:27 AM Thread Starter
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I'm thinking about the cognito 2-3 in. kit. I have their pitman/idler supports and sd sleeves. I'll install the a-arms and then determine if I need different keys, but the a-arms sound like the exact solution I was looking for!
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