Dynamat '07 Silverado - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Dynamat '07 Silverado

I am going to start taking apart the interior of my truck this afternoon. First I want to conceal my wiring I have done better. Second I am going to install Dynamat, or a similar product. Has anyone done this on their truck? I am not sure how much to order number one, and I am not sure what product I need. At this time I am going to do the floor, back of the cab, and doors. I will wait to do the roof.

-Wayne
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 06:34 PM
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I am interested in doing this to my truck someday so I am looking forward to seeing your results Wayne.

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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I plan on taking as many pictures as I can, and keep track of the material I use to help others.

Anyone heard of B Quiet? Much cheaper than Dynamat.

-Wayne
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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I just noticed on B Quiet's site they have a Chevy Silverado 3500 install. http://www.b-quiet.com/silverado3500.html

-Wayne
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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It looks like doing the roof might be easier with the interior out.

-Wayne
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-25-2010, 06:54 PM
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100sq ft about $150. Not bad.

Quieter cab would be nice.

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 02:17 PM
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Wayne I think I will use B-Quiet or Second Skin next. http://www.secondskinaudio.com/index.php

The price is way better than Dynamat. I have a lot of Dynamat. My '05 EC/SB took over 100 sq ft of extreme and three rolls of dynapad. I spent $1200 and didn't do the back wall of the cab.

I tried the Hoodliner, which is a waste. The '08 CC/SB needs around 120 sq ft.

I would recommend using a thinner product on the door panels as it is a real PITA to press the curves and get the panels back on right with the thicker product. Go as thick as you can afford on the floor and roof. They make the most difference.

Are you going to pull off the knee bolsters and dash panel to rattle-proof those? I used blue Great Stuff window and door foam between the backer and double sided tape on the little rattle trap parts I can reach. The Great Stuff is also handy in the pillars. As you quiet down the cab you will notice more and more little annoying creaks and rattles.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by fordt View Post
It looks like doing the roof might be easier with the interior out.
It is! I can't remember what size 12pt socket you need, but the GM620 socket is not really necessary to get the seats out.

-Josh-
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 03:58 PM
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Look into the FAT MAT

www.fatmat.com


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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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I have had the interior out a couple times to clean, and it doesn't take me long to get the seats out.

-Wayne
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