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Why would an automotive plug wire not work on an ATV coil?
The ATC 110 I have been working on had an Accel 8MM plug wire on it. Some one at some point in time cut the ends off and used it on this trike. It “appears” as though it was done correctly. However, I did nto get any spark. I thought the coil was bad. I just recently got another 110 that did have spark. I took just the plug wire off of that one and replaced the 8MM wire. Now, I have spark. Other than the wire being damaged, are there any other reasons a standard automotive plug wire would not work? A few people told me that plug wire would not do the job. Why?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonesome7.3
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The ATC 110 I have been working on had an Accel 8MM plug wire on it. Some one at some point in time cut the ends off and used it on this trike. It “appears” as though it was done correctly. However, I did nto get any spark. I thought the coil was bad. I just recently got another 110 that did have spark. I took just the plug wire off of that one and replaced the 8MM wire. Now, I have spark. Other than the wire being damaged, are there any other reasons a standard automotive plug wire would not work? A few people told me that plug wire would not do the job. Why?
http://www.motorcycleproject.com/mot...gwiretech.html
It's about resistance and likely you have too much of it between the wire and spark plug right now.
Wes
Early 2004 F-250 4x4 CC 6.0
2nd owner, ARP studs 1 at a time, Some parts missing in the exhaust path, BD intercooler hoses, Blue spring, MC filters, Sinister coolant filter, Exhaust manifold gaskets, WARN lockouts, Gold coolant, zoodad mod, autometer boost gauge, high idle mod, Scangauge 2, SCT X3 tuned from KEM, autometer fuel pressure gauge, Archoil 6200 in the fuel, FICM by Ed w/ATLAS40, autometer pyro gauge,'08 Alum Rear Diff cover, 5w-40 Rotella T6 w/ Archoil 9100 in it, zert in the slip joint, harpooned fuel tank, 6.4 banjos
Not a diesel mechanic in real life but I play one on the Internet

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Threadstarter
Thanks, that is a good link.
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