Got pulled over in VA - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-19-2008, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Got pulled over in VA

I got pulled over in Va. the other night after dropping off a car in Richmond.

The police named off a few DOT things he could get me for, but luckly he let me go with just a warning.

The main things he got me for was the lights( I have been hauling junk with the trailer and the lights got broke, so just taped them up with black electrical tape), and he got me for not having my electric brakes hooked up and not having a break away cable.


So, I guess it is time to completely redo my trailer. I need you guys to give me a hand picking a few things out.


First off I need to know wich break away cable kit should I go with? The trailer has electric brakes, but they arnt hooked up. How do I go about hooking them up?

Also, I need to get new lights. Im thinking about going with LEDs where is the cheapest place to pic up a set of LED lights with mounting brackets?


While im at it I want to replace the fenders with some Diamond Place fenders, I want it strong enough to be able to stand on an not bend, or even strong enough i can hit it with the car tire and not smash the fenders all up.



Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks,

Justin



Heres a couple of pics of the trailer:







Stuck in a field (it had rained hard for a few days straight woops!)




1996 Ford F350, 7.3 PSD, crew cab, 8ft(Line X'd) bed, 4x4, 5 speed manual, 4.11 gears, 285/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers, 222,000 miles, DP-Tuner Chip NS 1200 high idle stock 60Tow 80econo 120Race, 3x4" down pipe, 4" exhaust straight piped with 5" polished SS tip, gutted EBPV, chrome nerf bars, autometer ultra lite pyro and boost gauges, alpine cd player, alpine speakers, Garmin GPS.


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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-19-2008, 10:39 PM
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First off be very very very very very thankful you got let off w/a warning esp for safety violations. Many cops dont give breaks when it comes to lights and brakes and tires etc. Any break away kit will work. As far as led's cheap and led's dont go together. Many led's dont conply w/dot standards (doubt youd get pulled over for it but many dont) like 3 little led diodes in the whole light. Many led's arent tested to for longevity etc etc, cheap chinese knockoff can be had but how long will they last. Depending on where you travel 1 burnt out light can cost as much as 75 bucks not worth skimping on lights.

1996 Gmc k2500 4x4 6.5 turbo diesel, with mods Blew the head gasket, put all new heads, valves, injecotrs gaskets etc on the truck only to get it together and find out it had no oil pressure, and sounded horrible (pry a spun bearing). SOLD
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-19-2008, 11:04 PM
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Let's start with the basics . . .

How are your brakes not hooked up? Not wired in? You don't have a brake controller? You don't have an electrical hookup?

Find yourself a trailer supply place and get a catalog. I use Lucky B, but then one of their distribution facilities is 0.4 miles from the office.

Get yourself new brake lights. Avoid the LEDs as the DOT guys really don't appreciate bling on trailers. They want functionality and have a set of rules by which they operate.

Look up your states DOT regs and the Federal DOT regs if you cross state lines.

Once you have those things accomplished, post up and get more advice.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-20-2008, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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Well the trailer itself does have electric brakes, but as of right now they arn't wired up. I just have a 4 pin flat plug instead of a 7 pin round plug.

1996 Ford F350, 7.3 PSD, crew cab, 8ft(Line X'd) bed, 4x4, 5 speed manual, 4.11 gears, 285/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers, 222,000 miles, DP-Tuner Chip NS 1200 high idle stock 60Tow 80econo 120Race, 3x4" down pipe, 4" exhaust straight piped with 5" polished SS tip, gutted EBPV, chrome nerf bars, autometer ultra lite pyro and boost gauges, alpine cd player, alpine speakers, Garmin GPS.


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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-20-2008, 02:29 AM
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Get a 7-pin plug, a good brake controller (Tekonsha Prodgiy, maybe), and some brake lights . . .

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-20-2008, 02:43 AM Thread Starter
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yep, that is the plan.

1996 Ford F350, 7.3 PSD, crew cab, 8ft(Line X'd) bed, 4x4, 5 speed manual, 4.11 gears, 285/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers, 222,000 miles, DP-Tuner Chip NS 1200 high idle stock 60Tow 80econo 120Race, 3x4" down pipe, 4" exhaust straight piped with 5" polished SS tip, gutted EBPV, chrome nerf bars, autometer ultra lite pyro and boost gauges, alpine cd player, alpine speakers, Garmin GPS.


"Real trucks have 3 Pedals, 2 Sticks, and No Spark Plugs"
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-20-2008, 02:50 AM
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by the looks of your pics the trailer isn't wide enough for what your hauling

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-20-2008, 10:43 AM
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This place has lots of trailer parts:

http://www.etrailer.com/

They also have a good how-to page for wiring trailers here:

http://www.etrailer.com/faq_wiring.aspx

Hope this helps.

2004 Ford F250 PSD Lariat CrewCab 4x4 -- Built 04/04
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-20-2008, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the links.

1996 Ford F350, 7.3 PSD, crew cab, 8ft(Line X'd) bed, 4x4, 5 speed manual, 4.11 gears, 285/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers, 222,000 miles, DP-Tuner Chip NS 1200 high idle stock 60Tow 80econo 120Race, 3x4" down pipe, 4" exhaust straight piped with 5" polished SS tip, gutted EBPV, chrome nerf bars, autometer ultra lite pyro and boost gauges, alpine cd player, alpine speakers, Garmin GPS.


"Real trucks have 3 Pedals, 2 Sticks, and No Spark Plugs"
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-21-2008, 12:59 AM
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I like the rubber gromet mounts for lights with a box or tube for the light to push back into if it rubs.

For the clearance lights on the side weld a plate across the web with a shaped hole to take the gromet for the light. The lights just push in to mount and with a little clearance will push back without damage if rubbed.

Same with tail/stop lights, the 4 in round are common and with a starter shell they are protected from mis aimed cars. Two on each side is good so that you have a chance to replace a burned out light before the trooper sees you with one corner out.

The plastic conduit makes good protection for the wires and with the clips is easier than most methods of wiring. Maint is a breeze if it is put on with that in mind.

Any breakaway switch will work - it bolts to the trailer and the plug and cable go to the tow vehicle, it wires in to connect the battery on the trailer to the brakes on the trailer if the plug is pulled. I use a car battery on the trailer for several reasons - more capacity, a flasher and switch will run a long time and they cost less than the little ones. The penalty is about 30# more weight.

The premium wiring for the tow vehicle is a 10 ga charge line for the battery and a set of relays that use the charge line for power and signal the relays from the light wireing so that the trailer shorting out does not cause problems and the fuse on the relay shows what wire has a problem.

Most states have a 1500# and over requires brakes, if you cross a state line brakes are required on all axles, that you had no load was probably why you did not get a ticket. Attitude counts also.

If any thing is over 80 inches wide the ID set of 3 lights are supposed to be displayed. Most jurisdictions a tag light is not optional but the tag may be mounted as far as 4 ft foward of the tail lights the same as the load may project as far as 4 ft behind the tail lights. Based on the pictures I would get a set of magnetic trailer lights to stick on the load and put a connector on the trailer for them.

The deck tread fenders work well, add an inch and 1/2 to the spring to frame clearance and have the edges breaked to weld to the trailer and form the edge. Or use a flat to make the vertical parts. I like a 30 deg slope from the frame to the outside and put a 2 in strap under for brace. At the 3 positions arount the wheel I use 11 ga flat to make a gusset triangle to hold the fender flat. With a 1 1/2 return on the outside edge I have driven cars on the fender.

Adding stake pockets of 2x4 steel tube and a 2x3/16 rub rail is a handy accesory to put up a side kit. I taper the bottom of the pockets so a wood 2x4 will not drop through - that way if I am feeling poorly I can assemble the side kit by myself. Austin Hardware or Northern Tool have the corner brackets for a side kit. I use 2 or 3 2x6 rails with 4 foot stakes but the sides ought fit the stuff that you are hauling. I used to do wheat with a 4 foot 1/2 in plywood side but I got tired of paying to raise cows.

The rub rail will widen the trailer so the chevy PU will fit. Wheel tiedowns work well for something like that, drop the tire pressure so the tire conforms a little inside the rail and put the harness over the wheel. Wheel tiedowns can be done with chain also.

Junk garden hose or PVC makes good protection for the charge and brake wire on the tow truck as well. The connectors come with a standard wiring connection diagram in most of the packages.

To adjust the brakes on the trailer, if it does not have self adjusters, pull it up on a 4x with one axle and the other hangs free to adjust then do the other one. After the star wheel tightens back off 8 to 10 notches so it does not drag.

keydl

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